C_Williams

All,

Here’s my experiences…and any tips on resolving the final idle issues are welcomed.

1) The manifold install was straightforward and there weren’t any surprises.

2) The TB blade stop adjustment was way to large and I backed it down to the point where it closed fully, but didn’t stick shut.

3) Changed the expected airflow table (1514 error) to min values of 500

4) Started with stock RAF and IAC tables and reduced from there.

5) The idle quality is excellent, after warming.

6) Power increase is noticeable – dyno will confirm.

One issue remains - turning off the AC causes the idle to “hunt” and will kill if I do not intervene. (I can manipulate the pedal or, if I restart the car, all is fine)

Thanks for any input,

Bink

Have you done an idle relearn??

Perform the following procedure in order to return the learned idle to the correct position:

Automatic Transmission
1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Restore the PCM battery feed.
3. Turn OFF the A/C controls, radio, and any other accessories
4. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
5. Start the engine.
6. Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 176°F (80°C).
7. Shift the transmission into Drive.
8. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
9. Shift the transmission into Park.
10. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
11. Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds.

Manual Transmission
1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Restore the PCM battery feed.
3. Turn OFF the A/C controls, radio, and any other accessories
4. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
5. Place the transmission in Neutral.
6. Start the engine.
7. Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 176°F (80°C).
8. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
9. Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds.



joel

C_Williams

thanks for the response, I had already done the relearn and should have listed it as one of my steps.

Bink

Try raising your IAC value 40*C and above - a little at a time...~0.25 . May need to increase P/N Airflow Decay a bit also. Let us know your results.

joel

goodhands

Good thread guys! I need some help here too. My 90mm set up is about 90% good. I have two issues that I have yet to solve. The first is an RPM drop off when approaching a stop and engaging the clutch (not too bad..about 250 - 300 rpm below the asked for 900) then it quickly returns to 900 rpm. the second is with the A/C. When the AC is turned on the PCM feels like it is applying more TPS. Currently I have the IAC park table at 40% of stock, the RAF's 68% of stock and the P/N decay (neutral) 125%. Should I lower RAF's more and raise the in gear decay to 125%?

goodhands

My car is truely a freak now......with this 90mm setup. I think it is the TB and not the intake manifold. I reduced the RAF's to 60% of stock and raised both decay tables to 150%. (BTW I have taken the decay tables down to as low as 5% of stock with no noticable difference.) The car stumbled aroud for about 10 minutes of driving then smoothed out but still does not seem to have taken care of the RPM drop. And the AC still holds the rpm's up while driving. With the ac on it's like the throttle cracker has been raised a lot, but I have the cracker set at stock settings. I think I am going to switch to the 78mm and a polished stock TB.

Roger White

Be glad its not an A4.

<---I have about 20 tunes in this TB Intake so far.

Bink

Try this: Put the Throttle followers back to stock...then ,with AC=Off, does it cruise control severely at idle? You of course want it to idle down slowly.
If it only cruise-controls with the AC=On then try reducing the Throttle Cracker table at the pertinent MPH to 0 MPH.
Let us know how it goes.
joel

Buckmaster

My 90mm FAST Manifold and 90mm TPIS TB was not able to be tuned on my car. Look forward to your fix. Very frustrating.................

C_Williams

I am about 95% of the the way there, but I haven't had time to tune since Monday night.

Buckmaster

Keep us posted. I am intersted in your fix.............

WS6snake-eater

What are you IAT's at in idle...and in drive...Have you checked for any vacum leaks?

goodhands

OK here is my update. Well I have flashed the PCM over 30 times trying to tune this setup. My opinion is that the TPIS TB is not properly configured.

I zeroed out the throttle cracker tables and have taken the RAF's and IAC down so low the car would barely run and still with the A/C on the car drives itself or applies throttle on its own. I have had the throttle follower tables from 5% to 500% with no effect. There are no leaks that I or the shop that did the install can find. The car runs very well, including idle, without the A/C on with the exception of some rpm drop when arriving at a stop. But I live in hot Arizona and this time of year 90% of my driving is A/C. So I am on to the next possible solution.......a new 90mm TB from another mfg. If I can not find one then I am installing the 78mm intake and sending my stock TB to Shaner for improving. This has been a major PIA. If companies would just thoroughly test products before marketing instead of having us test them..... :

Hey I just saw these guns and thought I add them for more emotional effect!

Bink

Set your Throttle cracker "Disable" to 100 MPH - then it won't come into play for sure and you can return it to stock values.
Leave your IAC and RAF at the low settings you describe above.
Return your "Airflow Decay in Gear" to Stock and then multiply the whole table by 25 %. One fourth of stock values. Dont do anything else...take it for a spin. Does it work??

If not then increase "Airflow Decay in Gear" to 1.000. Does that help???

You should only make a single change at a time. I know it's VERY frustrating..it took me 6 months of tuning before I could drive my car!! I sympathise.
joel

Buckmaster

I feel your pain....trust me. ARE was not able to tune the combo on my car. Several others have issues too.....but then some tuners have been able to do it. VERY FRUSTRATING. I too have a TPIS 90mm TB and think maybe it is the TB possibly.........not sure. PIA for sure

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

Hmm.. interesting comments. TPIS 90mm TB is hard to tune, FAST 90mm TB has fitment issues...

Its still either one or the other for some of us, what do you guys think?

Being able to write the pcm in 27 seconds sure does help tuning speed.

C_Williams

I am "sneaking up" on this and it's getting better. Right now I have no drivability issues - whether AC is on/off.

Next is the cold start where the only issue appears to be either a short warm up or about a block of driving...after that the idle settles down.

Bink, thanks for the great tips..... I'm trying every one and they all will help me or someone else.

Magnus, I'd sure like to try the HP tuner but they don't have it for my lowly 97 c5 ....I'd sure love the fast uploads!

Bink

Keith - If you are careful with fitment of the TB, and intake, the LSX doesn't seem to be the problem. The problem is the TPIS TB - IMO. Do they have this much trouble tuning this TB on their modified LS6 intake??
joel

Bink

Please let us know what you find out and how you were able to sneak up on it...what works???
joel

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

FWIW, you should be able to get the idle and such with the 90 mm TB / custom or FAST intake. The only problem that the PCM doesn't seem to be able to deal well with is the surge (at least what I have experienced after VE table adjustment and everything). I have had good luck punching a small hole through the throttle plate (only on the 90 mm TB) and reducing the RAF tables accordingly. This slows the RAF controller down a bit and can actually eliminate the surge in most setups. You can make up for the slow decrease to idle by playing with the decay tables.

Good Luck