P Mack

iTrader: (6)

How many turns did you screw it in until it bottomed out? You probably just need to put the screw in from the top to get enough adjustment. Unless you've already gone say, over three turns, then you've got other problems.

CHRISPY

Take the screw out from the bottom and then put it in top down. This way you can make fine adjustments.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

you can get IAC counts in ATAP by using the "desired IAC" instead of the actual IAC since that may not work.

I switched the screw around too. I'm pretty close IAC wise. once you get down around 40 - 50, You need to experiment a bit as the IAC will vary by temp and other factors. Logging on a couple different times, I noticed the car settled into different IAC counts at hot idle (e.g. 175*) each time. Had a variance of around 10. In each case the idle was fine. Point being is that as you close in 30 - 50, you may not want to overshoot it much. I would guess that in the winter with colder, denser air that the IAC count will drop a bit lower.

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

Ok, took the screw out and put it in backwards. Talk about easy to adjust now. Got them were they need to be and the car starts better then ever. Thanks!

WS6snake-eater

OK I've tried this but I can't get my TPS to reset to 0. What gives...I'm running a g5x3 cam, and I was able to get my iac's down to 70, but it is showing 3%tps, and it is idling at 1300 rpm instead of 950. I backed it down to where it is only reading 0% but my IAC are still at 120. BTW I do not have a hole at all in my throttle blade. Should I drill a small one? What size is the factory hole?

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

Did you reset the TPS sensor like mentioned above?

Another_User

You have to follow the steps to reset exactly. I don't think I ever saw a blade without a hole. Are you running a factory TB? You need to screw in a teensy bit more on your set screw.

WS6snake-eater

Yes but it will not reset...I'm going to try and drill a hole...does anyone know what size the stock hole is? My blade does not have a hole...I used to have a hole but I epoxied it shut, because it was way too big...My IAC's would start at 20 and work their way down to 0 once the car was warmed up. I figured if I closed off the hole and tried this method I could get it to work. I guess I'm going to need a little of both. Between the big *** cam and the big stall, the vacum is all jacked up. So what is the stock hole size?

FWIW...it did reset the 1st few times I tried it. I think it must have a limit to how far it can actually be open before it will no longer reset itself. I would say that I'm probably at a true 6 or 7 % right now, and it is reading zero but if i go any further it will not reset.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

the stock hole is 5/32". I would start at 1/8" or 9/64". You can always go bigger but it is a pain to go smaller.

Another_User

I suppose there could be a limit. I went a good 10% into it though and never hit it. Of course I had to back it down too...that was too far.

WS6snake-eater

Yeah, I'm really not that far off. I was thinking about going with the stock hole size, and then starting over. My original hole was over a 1/4" just to get it to drive...LOL... With the blade cracked right now. I'm seeing a best of 95-100 IAC's when hot with the A/C off. I would really like to get it down to around 30-40, so that it will be around 65-70 with the A/C on.

WS6snake-eater

UPDATE....Drilled a 1/8" hole back in the throttle body..remember I didn't have a hole at all...engine is idleing perfectly....Thanks guys.

Matt

SS125

iTrader: (1)

I did this today and it worked! Now my car idles really pretty good. One problem though, now it has that cruise control effect. Give the car gas and let off the accelerator and the car idles at around 2000 rpm for quite some time. Drive down the road and push in on the clutch, the car settles in at around 2000 rpm and the only time it came down today was when I touched the brake. How do I fix this?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Mine did the same thing. I multiplied the entire throttle cracker table by 1/2 and it's pretty much gone now. I don't know if that's the right way to do it, cause it would probably be better to subtract a certain value rather than dividing but it's good enough for me.

Another_User

That's interesting. I wonder why that worked...

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Well i noticed it would only happen when i was moving, and when i came to a stop it would immediately settle to 800 rpm. That's why i did throttle cracker and not throttle decay.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I hit the limit, but i don't remember what the percent was cause i reset it a couple times. The car would idle in cell 22 when i started it at almost 2000 rpm. I adjusted the screw back down and it went back to idling at 800 in cell 20.

Debian Dog

Me and the tuner messed with the IAC till we were blue in the face. Drilling was the only method we could make work with my stock heads and a 224/228 .573/.603 N2O cam.

SS125

iTrader: (1)

Heres another question then. When I took the car back over to APE, they drilled the tb plate larger instead of doing anything with the IAC. What if I filled the hole and redrilled the hole starting at 1/8"? Maybe the hole is a little too big now after doing this to the iac's?

WS6snake-eater

That's exactly what I did...You can make it work