Need help. Can't get to idle in drive
 

I posted over at HPtuners with no luck so I thought I would post here as there are people over here just as knowledgeable as there.

I'm having problems getting it to idle in gear. It idles just fine in P/N. Idle is set to 850rpm's. It idles fine in P/N but when I shift into drive it drops to about 450rpm's and wants to stall. Can someone please take a look and my tune and log and see if they spot something obvious thats wrong somewhere. I've been working on this forever now and spent hours and hours researching with no luck. I've played with the timing all over. I've drilled the TB and got my IAC's all the way down to 30 in hot idle(230*F) and nothing seems to work. In P/N idle my RAF table runs great about 8.3-8.6 but the in gear doesn't seem to like anything I put in there. I did get Reverse to catch idle if I put the in gear values in the RAF table all the way up to 15 but doesn't hold when put in Drive plus I don't feel this is right. That's almost double of the P/N table!

Here's the setup:

2000 Silverado 1500
6.0L LQ4
LS3 heads
Cam specs:
.610 .623 lift
223 239 duration @.050
LSA: 114
Whipple side mount supercharger
LS9 Injectors
Original 3 bolt TB drilled hole

Also if someone can confirm my injector data, offsets, and pulsewidths that would be great as there seems to be a lot of misinformation all over the place for the ls9 injectors.

If anyone can spot something obvious in the tune or give me some ideas to try as I've run out I'd greatly appreciate it!

I just had a quick look @ your log, do you know why the timing drops to negative values when go into gear? That will raise havoc with everything.

If you want to send a PM with your email I will send you a tune file of my stroker when I was using LS9 injectors so you can compare. I also have spread sheet for the LS9 injectors I will send as well.

I actually wondered the same thing why they were going negative. I can command idle in the vcm controller and it overpowers it and puts them in negative or really low values for some reason. I did notice an IAT table for spark I might try zeroing out to see if that does it. I just don't understand why it want to drop off the map. I'll shoot you a PM

you have teamviewer? i can help :)

No, sorry I don't have team viewer.

well Let me cough up a base tune and post it here for ya

That would be great. Thank you

try this file just make sure before anything that it is tune related, i.e. make sure your tps % is at 0 at idle

subeone, your first tune ever :pimp: nice!

Ok I double checked and tripled checked everything and even did a TPS reset just in case. Tried the tune and still pretty much the same thing although it does idle close to 500rpm instead of the 400 it was when put in drive. Here's the log I took with that tune. I did it about 3 or 4 times and held it there a bit so you can see what its doing. Looks to me like one it gets into the 80kpa range the fuel trims stop reading for some reason. Would that be because the injector offsets stop at 80? Also the timing still drops off terrible but doesn't go negative as I see the minumum spark advance is set to 0 or it probably would.

When I drive this thing everything seems pretty good up until you brake to a complete stop. Just letting off the gas is enough to get it running good again but when you step on the brake and your almost to a complete stop is when it wants to drop idle down.

Do you have a known good tune?

What events brought this on?

No, I do not. It's a motor swap in my dads pickup. He had a 5.3 with a whipple and we swapped in the cammed 6.0 with the ls3 heads and whipple back on. I'm not a professional tuner by no means buy I do my fair share of research when it comes to tuning but this just has me stumped. I've been playing with it and just got back from a drive logging the MAF and everything there is good but wanted to double check and when I pulled into the driveway and put it in Park and let it catch idle and it idled fine like it normally does and then to park and wants to stall. Then I tried reverse and reverse actually held pretty descent at 800rpm's or so. This is the closest I've had it but I still don't get why it wants to stall in Drive and fall off the map and the stft's fall to 0's as well.

Is it normal for it to raise up in the 80-90kpa range when shifting to Drive or will it drop down once everything is right? Before Reverse would catch and hold, it would go to 80-90kpa and timing to negatives but now that that holds idle it goes to 64kpa and ~18* timing in Reverse now. Not always but sometimes. IAC's never seem to max in either direction either.

It's not just the timing going to zero & below, it looks like it is going into OL as well then goes very lean. Should not be doing that.

I would like to see a driving log. Speedo is working I'm assuming as well as TPS, maybe get commanded fuel in the table for a clue. I thought maybe OL idle was set in the PE tables but that would not explain the timing.

Your MAP maybe a result of timing & fuel changes in/out of gear.

Ok check out this log. It might not have all the pids your wanting as far as STIT etc but maybe you'll spot something. I think I am getting a bunch of false knock. To me it looks like timing is fairly conservative and it doesn't go lean up top(viewing MAF WIDEBAND ERR) but seems to pull out a lot of timing. Whether its the cam, headers, whipple I don't know. It sure lacks the power up top from all the KR. At the beginning I'm just backing out of my driveway and it gets KR. Let me know what you think.

When did you do this log?

Tonight after work about 2 hours ago. It's the latest log I have.

8* of KR @ 700rpm, you have a problem, that's with the new tune that has the idle timing @ 20*. I believe you were @ 27* idle timing in your tune what was going then.

Tuning basics 101 you have to be in good mechanical condition, you cannot tune around nor should you tune around problems.

That's what I'm starting to think too that its something mechanical somewhere. Thats what I was afraid of. I just figured the KR down low was from it dropping rpms and the timing goes out of whack and wants to stall. The entire install went so well I don't even know where to start to look for the problem. I took my time to make sure everything sealed good. Any ideas on what could cause the symptoms here? Possible vacuum leak maybe? Bad sensor?

I did find a header tube on the passenger side that looks like it has barely been rubbing the frame. Can't tell if it is a mark from the install or not but it has a pretty tight gap for clearance. Maybe when going into gear under load its enough to make the motor rock and touch?? Not sure thats enough to cause all the problem but it needs to be addressed anyway.