JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

So, I was messing with my TPS sensor today. I zero'd it out and closed the blade down (was reading .73V and I had set to .59V) and it was reading 3% even when closed. So the blade walked open or so I thought. I shut the blade down to .61V and the car sounded like it was sucking air through a straw and was struggling to idle up. So I knew I had to open it more. Well, that's leading me to believe the TPS is going bad. It's not reading the voltage right and even after zero'ing out and resetting the TPS, it keeps trying to go to 3% which makes idle a bitch.

The bigger issue is the Security light came on in the middle of all this. Killed the car. I didn't have it disabled in the tune, so I went into HPT, set it to none, and uploaded. All was good. Until the next time I needed to fire the car a couple mins later. Security came back on. Wtf? And now, it won't start. Fuel pump doesn't engage. It's dead.

But the battery is good. Headlights still pop on. I'm reading 11.5V off HPT for the ignition voltage.

I also cleared all DTCs (there were none for VATS).

Help!

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Did a write-all. Did a write VATS. Nothing. Double-checked the battery terminal.

Security light blinks as I am trying to turn it over. Then it does a triple beep after the failure. Fuel pump kicks on for 2 secs when I first insert key. When I turn the key, the fuel gauge drops below E and absolutely nothing happens.

Is the ignition hosed? Doesn't seem like it's software related. The battery is an Odyssey, so it can cycle forever.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Guess I'll put battery on a charger and see. Didn't drive it much last couple of weeks and started it 3-4 times today with the TPS issue.

Of course, it didn't want to idle. But it was reading 3% TPS at idle even with the blade shut down. And seemed to run like ****. I figured it wasn't using adaptive idle so it had a little surging. But I'm wondering if it was a ground issue?

RockinWs6

Vats is off in the PCM but the BCM is still doing its thing........... you need to get rid of that too by either using a resistor or bypassing the starter relay circuit. The BCM is not allowing the relays to engage. Turning off VATS in the tune only changing the PCM not the BCM. Its a option when putting a tune in a older car etc where there are no security.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Okay. I'll resistor the bitch. Is it the key? Or just the VATS? I only have one key from when I bought the car and the key looks rough. I wonder if it's not worth it to grab a new one?

I can def hear the relay click on when I turn it over.

RockinWs6

Usually the wiring going to the lock cylinder breaks off at the cylinder. I read the key resistor then put that value resistor in the circuit down at the bottom of the steering column. You will see a 2 wire connector with white wires if you pull off the bottom knee cover. Unplug that connection and plug your resistor in that female connector. Of course you don't plug the wiring from the column back in.