Very slight white "smoke" on cold starts?
#1
Very slight white "smoke" on cold starts?
I have been playing around with my part throttle tuning and I got it nailed down pretty good.
I have Absolute Speed Stage 2 heads and a Custom 230 230 .575 .575 114 lsa cam. I also have Jet Hot long tubes, ASP pulley, EWP, ported TB, Air lid, GMMG catback, Maf Ends.
My Ltrims at idle are around -5 - -7 and when cruising, they are about the same. The Ltrims lock at 0% everytime I hit WOT. With this current tune, I have about 45 miles of city and highway driving.
I have my Main VE set to 60 65 70 , hot and cold starts are great!
Idle is set at 900 RPMs.
The smell is not that bad either, sometimes on cold starts it is though.
Ever since it got warmer and more humid, on cold starts, I have a slight whitish color smoke from the exhaust.
What in the heck causes that? On hot starts and when it's warmed up, it doesn't do it at all.
Is it just extra moisture since it's open loop?
Bill
I have Absolute Speed Stage 2 heads and a Custom 230 230 .575 .575 114 lsa cam. I also have Jet Hot long tubes, ASP pulley, EWP, ported TB, Air lid, GMMG catback, Maf Ends.
My Ltrims at idle are around -5 - -7 and when cruising, they are about the same. The Ltrims lock at 0% everytime I hit WOT. With this current tune, I have about 45 miles of city and highway driving.
I have my Main VE set to 60 65 70 , hot and cold starts are great!
Idle is set at 900 RPMs.
The smell is not that bad either, sometimes on cold starts it is though.
Ever since it got warmer and more humid, on cold starts, I have a slight whitish color smoke from the exhaust.
What in the heck causes that? On hot starts and when it's warmed up, it doesn't do it at all.
Is it just extra moisture since it's open loop?
Bill
#2
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Not sure about the open loop affect. But white smoke usually indicates anti-freeze. Have you checked you fluid level? Pressure checked the system? Do you get bubbles in the radiator when the engine is running? Pulled the plugs to look at them?
#3
I thought anti-freeze as well but the white smoke is barely there (looks more like dense moisture) and goes away once it's in closed loop mode. I can't smell any anti-freeze either.
Is there any type of place/machine that could detect antifreeze in the exhaust stream?
I checked my coolant level and it was down a tad but I'm thinking that since I have a electric water pump, I just had some air bubbles that needed worked out since the install.
I didn't notice this with my old TR 224 cam. Could it be the 6 degree more duration and lift?
I pulled all my plugs and they all pretty much look the same except number 7 looks a tad different.
I just hope I don't have a head gasket problem, those heads have been on there about 1 year and 4 months.
Here's the pics:
Plug 1
Plug 3
Plug 5
Plug 7
Plug 2
Plug 4
Plug 6
Plug 8
Is there any type of place/machine that could detect antifreeze in the exhaust stream?
I checked my coolant level and it was down a tad but I'm thinking that since I have a electric water pump, I just had some air bubbles that needed worked out since the install.
I didn't notice this with my old TR 224 cam. Could it be the 6 degree more duration and lift?
I pulled all my plugs and they all pretty much look the same except number 7 looks a tad different.
I just hope I don't have a head gasket problem, those heads have been on there about 1 year and 4 months.
Here's the pics:
Plug 1
Plug 3
Plug 5
Plug 7
Plug 2
Plug 4
Plug 6
Plug 8
#4
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Put a cold piece of glass or mirror up into the
exhaust stream. You should condense a film
of whatever. If that then evaporates to nothing
it's just yesterday's exhaust condensate, getting
boiled off at startup. If there's a substantial film
residue then you can start to worry about what
besides water, it is.
exhaust stream. You should condense a film
of whatever. If that then evaporates to nothing
it's just yesterday's exhaust condensate, getting
boiled off at startup. If there's a substantial film
residue then you can start to worry about what
besides water, it is.
#6
I started up the car, got it warmed up and went for a drive, I then tried the tip above and the 'moisture' just goes away after 2-3 seconds and doesn't leave any residue!
My coolant level is still at the top too, maybe I just have a lot of air bubbles/pockets due to the electric water pump...
My coolant level is still at the top too, maybe I just have a lot of air bubbles/pockets due to the electric water pump...
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I think you just have a lot of exhaust volume
(headers are more than logs, big Y more than
stock Y, etc.) and that holds more exhaust
vapor, as well as cooling it more at idle. So you
will have condensate ponding up in the low
spots as it cools, and boil it off next time you
fire it up. Plus the condensate is more of a
"heat sink" and water source to the startup
exhaust stream, making "early morning fog in
the low-lying areas" as they like to say on the
weather report.
I went and drilled a few 1/16" holes at the low
points of my I-pipe and in the CME outlet pipes
to drain water, because I was getting big-time
liquid runoff on startup. But this isn't something
I'd recommend as a rule, just was making my
CME tips even more of a maintenance headache
by crusting them up faster.
(headers are more than logs, big Y more than
stock Y, etc.) and that holds more exhaust
vapor, as well as cooling it more at idle. So you
will have condensate ponding up in the low
spots as it cools, and boil it off next time you
fire it up. Plus the condensate is more of a
"heat sink" and water source to the startup
exhaust stream, making "early morning fog in
the low-lying areas" as they like to say on the
weather report.
I went and drilled a few 1/16" holes at the low
points of my I-pipe and in the CME outlet pipes
to drain water, because I was getting big-time
liquid runoff on startup. But this isn't something
I'd recommend as a rule, just was making my
CME tips even more of a maintenance headache
by crusting them up faster.