Turbo 6.0 running, what base tune?
03-27-2017, 05:13 PM
#1
Turbo 6.0 running, what base tune? I'm new to LS tuning and just got HPTuners today. I know the basics as I have some OBD1 experience.
Can anyone suggest a tune to start with? I maybe don't understand this credit system, but I don't want to use credits on a tune that I later discover is pretty far off to begin with. Should I read this 411 PCM f body BIN and start modifying it? Should I start with something a little closer displacement wise and already setup for SD and a turbo in mind?
The combo is a stock 6.0 running a S475 turbo 1.32 A/R. 411 PCM. Trans is T56 and vehicle weight is probably around 4200 LBS or so. I'm thinking I'll probably want speed density since my goal is around 600 WHP
The two bins I'm uploading are what I've been considering as a starting point? Any thoughts or opinions? The first one is sloppys and the other one I found by searching the HPT repository.
Can anyone suggest a tune to start with? I maybe don't understand this credit system, but I don't want to use credits on a tune that I later discover is pretty far off to begin with. Should I read this 411 PCM f body BIN and start modifying it? Should I start with something a little closer displacement wise and already setup for SD and a turbo in mind?
The combo is a stock 6.0 running a S475 turbo 1.32 A/R. 411 PCM. Trans is T56 and vehicle weight is probably around 4200 LBS or so. I'm thinking I'll probably want speed density since my goal is around 600 WHP
The two bins I'm uploading are what I've been considering as a starting point? Any thoughts or opinions? The first one is sloppys and the other one I found by searching the HPT repository.
03-28-2017, 01:15 AM
#4
You are going to have to license it one way or another.
Once you do that, you can write in another tune.
I'm not sure if you can write in an existing 2 or 3 bar tune........I've never tried that.
Sad part is, if you find a good base tune, you have to license it too.
So it's certainly cheaper to convert yours to 2/3 bar and tune away. No charge for the custom operating system.
Once you do that, you can write in another tune.
I'm not sure if you can write in an existing 2 or 3 bar tune........I've never tried that.
Sad part is, if you find a good base tune, you have to license it too.
So it's certainly cheaper to convert yours to 2/3 bar and tune away. No charge for the custom operating system.
03-29-2017, 12:03 AM
#5
Yeah I went ahead and did that last night and I've began altering the stock 411 tune. I saw that the 411 pcm has custom OS options for 2 and 3 bar SD so I should be good.
What PCM are you running? And are you 2 or 3 bar SD?
So far I have just disabled VATS and altered a couple other parameters, changed the transmission settings to manual, bumped cylinder volume up to reflect the fact that the PCM is fueling a 6.0 instead of a 5.7.... It will idle now instead of the VATS killing it, but if you blip the throttle a tiny bit it stumbles, probably the fueling way off at this point.
I just downloaded several stock 6.0 tunes, I'm planning on doing a compare files and starting to move some of the parameters over to my base tune.
What PCM are you running? And are you 2 or 3 bar SD?
So far I have just disabled VATS and altered a couple other parameters, changed the transmission settings to manual, bumped cylinder volume up to reflect the fact that the PCM is fueling a 6.0 instead of a 5.7.... It will idle now instead of the VATS killing it, but if you blip the throttle a tiny bit it stumbles, probably the fueling way off at this point.
I just downloaded several stock 6.0 tunes, I'm planning on doing a compare files and starting to move some of the parameters over to my base tune.
03-29-2017, 12:51 AM
#6
Can you explain the segment swapper to me? I can't get it to work as it's grayed out when I try to click on it.
Is there a way you can open a file, then open a compare file and copy all the differences to your main file without having to copy each parameter one at a time???
Is there a way you can open a file, then open a compare file and copy all the differences to your main file without having to copy each parameter one at a time???
03-29-2017, 01:32 PM
#7
And yet another question. If I'm planning on running 15 maybe 16 pounds of boost, a 2 bar MAP and OS should be the ticket right?
A 2 bar setup like this should be good to nearly 30 pounds of boost, am I understanding this correctly?
And going to a 3 bar would not only be unnecessary in my case with a target boost of 15 psi or so, and wouldn't a 3 bar also have less resolution in terms of the fuel tables?
A 2 bar setup like this should be good to nearly 30 pounds of boost, am I understanding this correctly?
And going to a 3 bar would not only be unnecessary in my case with a target boost of 15 psi or so, and wouldn't a 3 bar also have less resolution in terms of the fuel tables?
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03-29-2017, 08:17 PM
#8
2bar is good for about 15#s of boost. If you are only doing 15-16, I would stay with 2bar. As for copying compare files, it is ABSOLUTELY better to do individual parameters. Unknown tunes may have random changes made to them for purposes that may not apply to your engine. Sometimes the trial and error of another person's learning process has garbage leftover in the tune. As for the segment swapper, it mainly applies to changing types of automatic transmission or swapping in alcohol composition sensor segments. I'm sure there are other uses, but you probably don't need them while starting out.
03-29-2017, 10:38 PM
#9
Yeah I went ahead and did that last night and I've began altering the stock 411 tune. I saw that the 411 pcm has custom OS options for 2 and 3 bar SD so I should be good.
What PCM are you running? And are you 2 or 3 bar SD?
So far I have just disabled VATS and altered a couple other parameters, changed the transmission settings to manual, bumped cylinder volume up to reflect the fact that the PCM is fueling a 6.0 instead of a 5.7.... It will idle now instead of the VATS killing it, but if you blip the throttle a tiny bit it stumbles, probably the fueling way off at this point.
I just downloaded several stock 6.0 tunes, I'm planning on doing a compare files and starting to move some of the parameters over to my base tune.
What PCM are you running? And are you 2 or 3 bar SD?
So far I have just disabled VATS and altered a couple other parameters, changed the transmission settings to manual, bumped cylinder volume up to reflect the fact that the PCM is fueling a 6.0 instead of a 5.7.... It will idle now instead of the VATS killing it, but if you blip the throttle a tiny bit it stumbles, probably the fueling way off at this point.
I just downloaded several stock 6.0 tunes, I'm planning on doing a compare files and starting to move some of the parameters over to my base tune.
It is an 0896 pcm, essentially identical to the 0411.
Mine did start out as a manual trans.
Ron
03-31-2017, 12:58 AM
#10
Okay 2 bar it is. Think I'm starting to get it, copying individual parameters is better so you can see if there is maybe any weirdness in terms of a difference in column or row layout from like one table to another.
I have copied all of the parameters from a 2000 6.0 truck into my 411 base tune with the exception of the trans parameters. Under the transmission tab in HPT I set it to manual, I'm thinking that's all I need to change for the manual trans... Hoping this will get me close enough to start to dial in the turbo combination.
I wasn't sure about the segment swapper, thanks for clearing that up for me.
Ron, could I convince you to upload your tune so that I may compare it to the one I am working on?
So far, I've been running the engine in short bursts of 1 to 2 minutes, usually less since there's no water in it. I'm going to put water in tomorrow and run it up to operating temperature and record a log. I'm going to upload the datalog and I'm hoping I can get some of you guys to review the log and give me some input on it.
On another note, I have what I believe to be a 140 amp alternator, it's bigger than most and says "DR44" on the front of the alt. There is a two wire plug that goes into the alternator which I don't have and apparently never did. From my research it looks like this 2 wire plug goes to the PCM (RED pins 15 and 52),
Is there another way hook this up so that the alternator is charging at max capacity without having to involve the PCM????? I'd like to do that if possible.
Or do I need to hook these two wires up to the PCM.... The local parts house has the pigtail to do this but it's pretty ridiculously overpriced at $33.
It looks as if one of the two wires on the alt plug goes to the PCM for a charging signal to an exciter located in the alternator an the other is for the generator duty cycle.
I have copied all of the parameters from a 2000 6.0 truck into my 411 base tune with the exception of the trans parameters. Under the transmission tab in HPT I set it to manual, I'm thinking that's all I need to change for the manual trans... Hoping this will get me close enough to start to dial in the turbo combination.
I wasn't sure about the segment swapper, thanks for clearing that up for me.
Ron, could I convince you to upload your tune so that I may compare it to the one I am working on?
So far, I've been running the engine in short bursts of 1 to 2 minutes, usually less since there's no water in it. I'm going to put water in tomorrow and run it up to operating temperature and record a log. I'm going to upload the datalog and I'm hoping I can get some of you guys to review the log and give me some input on it.
On another note, I have what I believe to be a 140 amp alternator, it's bigger than most and says "DR44" on the front of the alt. There is a two wire plug that goes into the alternator which I don't have and apparently never did. From my research it looks like this 2 wire plug goes to the PCM (RED pins 15 and 52),
Is there another way hook this up so that the alternator is charging at max capacity without having to involve the PCM????? I'd like to do that if possible.
Or do I need to hook these two wires up to the PCM.... The local parts house has the pigtail to do this but it's pretty ridiculously overpriced at $33.
It looks as if one of the two wires on the alt plug goes to the PCM for a charging signal to an exciter located in the alternator an the other is for the generator duty cycle.
03-31-2017, 02:53 AM
#11
The Dr 44 alternator has to be run through the pcm. If u don't want to do that there is a video on you tube on how to swap in a volage regulator from an ad series alternator.
You can also just grab an AD series alternator, from like an '04 Silverado, then u can wire it up without the pcm. Just turn off the codes in the tune. Then sell the DR44.
Also segment swap Trans segment and Trans diagnostic segments from a manual tune with the same operating system as your tune. Don't just switch the Trans parameter from auto to manual.
You can also just grab an AD series alternator, from like an '04 Silverado, then u can wire it up without the pcm. Just turn off the codes in the tune. Then sell the DR44.
Also segment swap Trans segment and Trans diagnostic segments from a manual tune with the same operating system as your tune. Don't just switch the Trans parameter from auto to manual.
04-01-2017, 02:15 PM
#12
Are you talking about this video below? Seems simple enough to adapt a regulator and make some jumpers after watching that.
I'm still not figuring out how to even do the segment swap? It's grayed out and I can't click on it no matter what? Any pointers or writeups on segment swapping?
I'm still not figuring out how to even do the segment swap? It's grayed out and I can't click on it no matter what? Any pointers or writeups on segment swapping?
04-01-2017, 06:14 PM
#14
yeah something is wrong with your O2 sensors. B1S1 , Drivers side reading is way high. Check the wiring and swap sensors to see if the problem follows.
Also your IAT sensor isnt reading and will cause issues. Im assuming you probably have the MAF unplugged since your are going SD. The truck maf has both the IAT and Maf in one. You will need to run a separate IAT in the intake.
Its a common swap to install it in the EVAP port using a Typhoon IAT.
Also your IAT sensor isnt reading and will cause issues. Im assuming you probably have the MAF unplugged since your are going SD. The truck maf has both the IAT and Maf in one. You will need to run a separate IAT in the intake.
Its a common swap to install it in the EVAP port using a Typhoon IAT.
04-01-2017, 09:54 PM
#15
Yeah I thought something might be wrong there. It's pretty confusing to me how many different o2 sensors there are for these LS engines. The wiring harness I'm using is one that was GREEN RED which I converted to BLUE RED. I'm going to look back into my wiring and see if i did something wrong on the wires there. Still not sure I used the right o2s either...... The ones I have hooked up are the white square body plug style o2 sensors.
Neither o2 sensor is "swinging" in voltage either.... I thought when they worked you typically saw them swing from something around .3 MV to something like 1.1V??
Yeah no MAF at all here and also there is no IAT hooked up currently. I actually found through some searching that an IAT from a syclone or typhoon is a good option so I picked up one of those IAT sensors earlier to install.
Neither o2 sensor is "swinging" in voltage either.... I thought when they worked you typically saw them swing from something around .3 MV to something like 1.1V??
Yeah no MAF at all here and also there is no IAT hooked up currently. I actually found through some searching that an IAT from a syclone or typhoon is a good option so I picked up one of those IAT sensors earlier to install.
04-01-2017, 11:37 PM
#17
Thankyou! I'm going to start looking around at that file a little bit right now. I'm sure I'll have some questions!
I know I originally said I was going to run a 2 bar, I'm now considering maybe just going ahead with a 3 bar in case I ever want to increase the boost beyond 15 pounds. What map sensor are you using?? I see several choices for 3 bar maps by searching around.
How much resolution will be lost when going from a 2 bar to a 3 bar setup?
I know I originally said I was going to run a 2 bar, I'm now considering maybe just going ahead with a 3 bar in case I ever want to increase the boost beyond 15 pounds. What map sensor are you using?? I see several choices for 3 bar maps by searching around.
How much resolution will be lost when going from a 2 bar to a 3 bar setup?
Last edited by ElQueFør; 04-01-2017 at 11:59 PM.
04-03-2017, 04:00 PM
#19
Do you have any pics or info on your homemade MAP sensor?
I found a thread discussing ZR1 3 bar maps. Looks as if they will work with the LS1 411 PCM but there will be some slight skewing of datapoints since there cannot be a negative offset in the LS1 PCM
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-sensor-2.html
I'm strongly considering the ZR1 3 bar MAP sensor since I found it for $33. I'll probably pull the trigger on it tonight.
I found a thread discussing ZR1 3 bar maps. Looks as if they will work with the LS1 411 PCM but there will be some slight skewing of datapoints since there cannot be a negative offset in the LS1 PCM
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-sensor-2.html
I'm strongly considering the ZR1 3 bar MAP sensor since I found it for $33. I'll probably pull the trigger on it tonight.