J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

I did some searching, but did not find a definite answer.

Seems to me the easiest logical place for WBO2 heater power/ground would be the factory rear harness that is just laying there disconnected, as I have an off-road y-pipe with a bung already there. Any problems with this ? The only reason I can think of why it would not -> would be if that feed is not always hot with IGN on.

Thanks,
'J

kp

iTrader: (34)

I may be wrong but the Bosche LSU and NTK sensors need a regulated lower voltge for the heater. Any commercial wideband controller you buy will have hookups for power that goes to the heater on the O2, you just cant hook up 12v to the heater and use the voltage output directly for a wideband sensor.

But

If you are using an LC-1 and are mounting it outside the car the pink/black wire from a rear O2 should work fine, they are powered off the 20A ENG SEN fuse under the hood and its ignition on only.

Using the rear O2 bungs is fine as long as you have no cats or bad vacuum leaks upstream.

J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

That is my plan, well kinda. I will be using a LC- 1. I plan to run the wires under the pass seat. I have no cats. I will double check for good seal at collector end to y-pipe. I figured I could use an old O2 sensor and cut the wires off, then run them to the Heater feed on the LC-1, then connect the connector to the rear O2 harness. IE: no extra wires or cutting exsisting wires. I will be using the WB with EFI-Live.

Thanks !
'J

kp

iTrader: (34)

That will work fine, I put my LC1 controller in the car, the O2 sensor wire was long enough to make it from the RH rear O2 bung to the shifter cable grommet and the LC1 itself is under the front of the console and I used the radio wires to power it. I didnt want to leave it outside the car

Works great with the flashscan thingy as well.

J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

Hooked it up last night. So far so good. Planning on a bit of Auto VE tonight, then track this weekend. I have the controller inside the car as well. Drilled a 1" hole under the pass seat, and put a rubber grommet there. WB o2 fits right through. I ran an old o2 harness (connected to the rear o2 plug) through the grommet for power/ground. Used pink/black as you stated.

Thanks again. This WB setup seems like it will work real well.

'J

AnotherScreenName

iTrader: (15)

I used the pink power wire from the factory o2 to power my LC1 as well. Unit is also in car under the console.

kp

iTrader: (34)

cool, but I did type that wrong and I should have typed pink AND black wireS

I really like the LC1, hard to beat for the $$

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

So you guys ran the old sensor wires into the car and ran the WB sensor out of the car so you could keep the LC1 in hte car?

That is what I am thinking about doing. I have the LC1 tapped off the radio power right now. I was going to use my front O2s harness instead and pipe the NB output from the LC1 into the PCM. I am running a dual WB and I really don't know what I will do with all the damn wires if I keep them inside.

J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

That is exactly what I did. I used the Rear o2, but prob does not make a diff. Works great so far.

'J