Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

AutoTap is da bomb!!! <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

What items should I view/log the most to see how my 2001 SS is running?

Right now, the car runs great, but I want to start learning what to look for when I go to the track this year.

From what I have read, I should only have 4 gauges running istead of 8 cuz it will update faster with fewer gauges right?

Any tips or pointers?

I only have a lid and cutout now, but hopefully int eh next 3 months I should have LT headers and nitrous.

Bill

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

B1S1 O2 sensor (look for .890-.900 average)
B2S1 O2 sensor (same as above)
Throttle Position % (only WOT data is valid)
Ignition Timing (you want 28+ degrees)
Knock Retard (you want 0 KR)
Engine Speed (rpm)

Those are the main ones we use.

Others that are used commonly:

B1 LTrim (close to 0 as possible)
B2 LTrim (same as above)

That should get you started. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Tony

Colonel

But when checking Ltrims use idle and part throttle data only.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

Quick question for you two, trying not to get off topic..

Say you have perfect O2's and timing advance at WOT. .890's and 30's+ or so... but your LT's are +10% at cruise and/or idle.

Would you modify with a MAF T at the risk of loosing advance and/or throwing off the A/F@WOT or leave it be? If you would change to bring it down to 0, why?

Thanks.

- Keith

Colonel

I'd leave it alone.

Now, if I had a MAFT hooked up and was seeing these numbers I might go up one click on the base and back one or two on the WOT just to get it perfect (that being my nature) but assuming perfect drivability there really would be no reason in doing so. It would be simple to go back to the prior settings.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

For the O2's, what is a bad range and what is good?

What is the B1 LTrim & B2 LTrim? Is it Air/fuel? What are the high and low of that?

I had it set up once for Air/Fuel Gauge and crusing down the street it was around 14 or so and once I went WOT, it went to 11.x, is that ok?

Moderators, Can you make a forum for just AutoTap Talk??? That would help out many, including myself.

Thanks for the help,

Bill

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

Bill, we were planning on making an electronics/programming section once the personal version of LS1EDIT was available and we could all discuss this stuff. Not sure if that section would be busy enough for now.

O2 sensors: below .880 and you are getting too lean. Above .900 and you are running too rich.

LTrims: this is telling you how much the PCM is adding or removing fuel. Closer to 0 means the PCM isn't working as hard to correct an issue. It shouldn't have to work that hard if your car is tuned properly. A high - or + value means it is working too much. One suggests that it is adding fuel to compensate, the other suggests that it is pulling back on fuel to compensate.

Tony

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys for helping me out.

Do you know if I just have 4 showing, how many times it updates a second?

I am using a Sony 1Ghz laptop.

Bill

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

LT's is how much the PCM is adjusting the fuel from the stock programmed tables/conditions.

If you change your MAF setup or the effeciency of the car, then the LT's will change.

I have looked into this so much and the only reason I can see as of today (WOT O2's and Adv being OK) to manipulate the LT's is to correct for idle/cruise/cold start issues. More so cold start/idle issues. Once in cruise & open loop, the PCM uses the o2's. If your cold start/warm idle is ok with you, then I don't see any reason to modify the LT's closer to 0.