Knock, Knock, Knockin on my door
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Knock, Knock, Knockin on my door
Well I've been working on a friend's car and I've been having a real tough time getting rid of his KR. On some days, around the 2k-2.5k range he has consistent 4-5* of KR. I have dropped the timing at least 15* and it still remains. His IAT goes up to around 60*C(causing the gauges to go red.) How can I fix the problem of the high IAT, and what could be the possible cause(besides the high IAT) of the KR? The car is a 98 with 89k on it.
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had a problem with my 99' , water had leaked in on the knock sensors and they had started to rust some....noticed the car was acting kind of funny; took the intake off and fixed and cleaned the sensors. then it was fine. could be your problem with the knock, maybe not. just listing some help
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It's the classic 98 knock sensor issue. Mine have the same thing. I "fixed" it for now by turning down the volume on the bastards. If you go to Spark Retard, and set your Knock Sensor Global Gain vs. MAP vs. Cyl table in the 65 - 100 KPa columns to something greater than the 1.000 it is stock, this will be like turning down the sensitivity on them. (my girlfriend wishes she could turn my sensitivity up. )
At any rate, mine are set at 1.175 and it's gorgeous. No problems with false KR now. What I did is turn them down bit, by bit, by bit slowly logging each run. When I saw the knock go away, I knew it was JUST enough to make it happen. I still want the damn things to work if I need them too.
Next year I'll be doing an LS6 intake and will install NEW 99+ knocks, remove the foam **** that GM installed under the intake (GM TSB out to remove that by the way) which holds water, and then I'll crank my knocks back up and see what happens.
One other thing, after you get the KR gone. Log for your Knock Learn Factor in the scanner. It'll probably at something less than 1.00. That value when less than 1 is screwing up your WOT timing. Take the car out on the highway and roll on and off the throttle (even in 5th at normal speeds it works) and you'll watch that number slowly creep back up towards 1.00. The PCM needs time to figure out how much timing it can add safely without getting KR. Think of Knock Learn Factor as a womans memory and it takes time (and the right moves) to erase anything bad!
Hope that helps man.
At any rate, mine are set at 1.175 and it's gorgeous. No problems with false KR now. What I did is turn them down bit, by bit, by bit slowly logging each run. When I saw the knock go away, I knew it was JUST enough to make it happen. I still want the damn things to work if I need them too.
Next year I'll be doing an LS6 intake and will install NEW 99+ knocks, remove the foam **** that GM installed under the intake (GM TSB out to remove that by the way) which holds water, and then I'll crank my knocks back up and see what happens.
One other thing, after you get the KR gone. Log for your Knock Learn Factor in the scanner. It'll probably at something less than 1.00. That value when less than 1 is screwing up your WOT timing. Take the car out on the highway and roll on and off the throttle (even in 5th at normal speeds it works) and you'll watch that number slowly creep back up towards 1.00. The PCM needs time to figure out how much timing it can add safely without getting KR. Think of Knock Learn Factor as a womans memory and it takes time (and the right moves) to erase anything bad!
Hope that helps man.