Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

i wired up my lc1 and it was working but now after i installed it in my car it wont read anything..

all it will do is read "20.00" after it goes thru the warmup display

i've tried to do the calibration thing by unplugging it and then plugging it back i but it didnt help

why is it not reading anytihng


AGAIN IT FIRDT READS -0.00 FOR ABOUT 20-30 SEC THEN IT JUST GOES TO "20.00 OR 19.9" AND SITS THERE IF I UNPLUG THE SENDOR IT WILL READ "50.0" WHICH I KNOW MEANS BAD SENSOR BUT WHAT DOES '20.00" MEAN?

*also i have to add that this is just with the sensor laying in the tailpipe at idle i havent got my 02 bung installed yet BUT when i had it out of the car it did work at reading the exhaust using this method"

bmfcamaro

iTrader: (1)

you need to do a full heat calibration

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

How Do I Do That?

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

????????????????

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

read the directions

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

20ish is what you'll see on a LM-1 in open air.
The free air cal seeks for the fresh air WBO2
reading. But once you start the motor you
ought to see it move. If it doesn't then I'd
chase down the wiring looking for something
wrong.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

THANKS DUMB **** THAT HELPS OUT ALOT.. I OVBIOUSLY READ THE DIRECTIONS AND KNEW TO PERFORM THE FREE AIR CALBRATION BUT IT DIDNT WORK

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i'm not the dumbshit...chances are you did the cal in the exhaust or dirty air, recal it

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

wow.. you really cant read for ****...l i havent put in the exhaust yet because i dont have an open 02 bung if you actually read my post instead of just looking for smart *** things to say you woulda seen that i did the calc in open air (like it says in the directions that i did read) and then i shoved it in the tailpipe of my car

this method allowed me to get a reading prior to installing the unit in my car but for somereason after the install it just reads 20.0 or 19.9 no matter if the unit is in a tailpipe or in the freshest air you could find

also i tried the re cal procedure like 3 times with no luck

the only question i had was what makes a "full heat" calibration different form a "free air" calibration? could it be the unit needs to be in a hot exhaust system for it to work and by having it in the reletively cool tailpipe its just not hot enough to give an accurate reading?????

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

i think somebody needs a nap...........

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

the air injection system,if you still have it,will throw the readings way lean until it turns off,which is like 3 minutes or so on a cold motor.Whenever you first start it up it will do that,just delete the air system if ya want and it will give you true startup readings.all the air system does is bring the cats up to temp quicker,better emisions.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

thanks but again the readings were not in the car


also i do not have cats or an air system

finally the system worked fine a few days before i did the install but all i did was bolt it in to the car........... i tested the wireing harness i made for the unit while it was temporally hooked up and it worked fine but after i sodiered the wires in to the car (a few days later) it has the problem.. again all i did during my "install" was hook up 3 wires (power and the two grounds ... my main wireing job was done a few days before and at that time it worked fine

..

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

the tihng that makes me stray away from a wireing problem is the bulk of the wireing was done and tested before i installed the unit.. also the gauge responds to being unplugged by readiing "50" and it does go thru the warmup sequence... so basically if it did work and i didnt change the wireing what else could have gone wrong??

Doc

iTrader: (9)

So is the "calibration wire" grounded? If so, it will always read "20.x" as it will be in free air calibration mode. The calibration wire needs to be hooked up with the pushbutton in line so when you push it, it temporarily grounds the signal thus putting it in free air calibration mode.

The heater calibration is achieved by unhooking the sensor from the controller and powering it up for 30 sec or so. Turn it off. Turn it on. The LogWorks display will show you a "heater cal" first, essentially timing it'self as to how long it takes for it, the sensor, to get up to operating temp.

If that's not your problem sorry, just trying to help.

99whitews6

iTrader: (2)

I have been fighting this problem since I bought my LC-1. Rewired about 30 times, sometimes it fixes it sometimes it doesnt. Sometimes recals work, sometimes they dont. I kept thinking it might be the sensor so now I have a pile of them laying around. Mine is doing 19.9-20.6 right now and I just gave up on it. I will be buying a new one or a different sensor once I calm down......

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

ACTUALLY I HAVE NEVER USED THAT WIRE.. ON ALL MY INSTALLS IVE JUST TPED IT UP OUT OF THE WAY...

READING ON IS THERE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FREE AIR CALBRATION AND HEATER CALBRATION BECAUSE ACCORDING TO YOUR DESCRIPTION I'VE NEVER DONE A FREE AIR CALBRATION BUT HAVE DONE MANY HEATER CALIBRATIONS

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

I HAD THIS PROBLEM A WHILE BACK AND INNOVATE TOLD ME IT WAS A BAD GROUND AMUNGST 10 OTHER REASONS.. IN THE END I WAS INSTRUCTED TO CALBRATE THE SENSOR BY USING THE UNPLUG AND POWER ON METHOD AND THAT TIME IT SOLVED MY ISSUE THAT TIME

ToplessTexan

Yes, there are two distinct calibrations. The heater cal typically needs to be done only at install but can be repeated if deemed necessary. The free air cal needs to be performed periodically. (I think quarterly or so is what Klaus recommends for fixed install in a daily driver.)

Sounds like you may not have ever done the free air cal? Both of these statements can't be correct unless the calc in the first statement is the heater cal:

If so, try doing the free air cal after doing the heater cal.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

Yep.. U Got It

I Dont Have The Calc Wire For The Free Air Calc Even Hooked Up As Of Now I Got It Taped Off Out Of The Way ....

Let Me Go And Rewire This Bad Boy Again And See If My Problem Is Fixed

Just To Verify The Black Calc Wire Gets Hooked To A Pushbutton Switch And Then To A Ground So When You Push The Switch It Grounds That Wire And Starts A Free Air Cal?


Also Im Guessing That During A Free Air Cal The Sensor Needs To Be In Clean Air


Finally My Procedure For The Calibrations Is Gonna Be First Peform The Heater Cal Then Peform The Free Air Cal

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

O Yea Heres What I've Been Working On