What Did I Get Myself Into? :(
#22
TECH Senior Member
dang... surprised this post got this many replies....
tune yourself (you'd be better off than the tuner you mentioned) or find a real tuner (see stickies)
edit: read most of the posts...
WHY did you even bring your car to the guy after all of the posts here?
based on your initial post of him.... everyone says don't go there... you go there.... something about 20 bux blah blah
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
I have a "chip" that sells for 25 bux on ebay that i'll sell for 15 ... PM me for details
tune yourself (you'd be better off than the tuner you mentioned) or find a real tuner (see stickies)
edit: read most of the posts...
WHY did you even bring your car to the guy after all of the posts here?
based on your initial post of him.... everyone says don't go there... you go there.... something about 20 bux blah blah
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
I have a "chip" that sells for 25 bux on ebay that i'll sell for 15 ... PM me for details
Last edited by horist; 01-24-2007 at 12:19 AM.
#24
Banned
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by horist
dang... surprised this post got this many replies....
tune yourself (you'd be better off than the tuner you mentioned) or find a real tuner (see stickies)
edit: read most of the posts...
WHY did you even bring your car to the guy after all of the posts here?
based on your initial post of him.... everyone says don't go there... you go there.... something about 20 bux blah blah
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
I have a "chip" that sells for 25 bux on ebay that i'll sell for 15 ... PM me for details
tune yourself (you'd be better off than the tuner you mentioned) or find a real tuner (see stickies)
edit: read most of the posts...
WHY did you even bring your car to the guy after all of the posts here?
based on your initial post of him.... everyone says don't go there... you go there.... something about 20 bux blah blah
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
I have a "chip" that sells for 25 bux on ebay that i'll sell for 15 ... PM me for details
#25
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I agree. I would have gone just to see what other hilarious **** this guy could say. I wouldnt let him touch the car but it would be funny as hell to talk to him.. He cant hurt it just scanning it. With a handheld it probably wouldnt be able to tune his care anyway since most are locked.
#26
Originally Posted by horist
WHY did you even bring your car to the guy after all of the posts here?
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
so.... why did you ask "our" opinion... yet still bring it to this guy.. and then ask "us" for our opinion?
Why did you ask for an opinion.. get many replies of "RUN" yet still go there??? you even posted that you "I made it back in one piece"...
Originally Posted by Sharpe in post #1
I'm going there at 1 p.m., and it's 9:10 a.m. now. Can some people give me some advice? If he's using a handheld, he can't really screw anything up can he? What if he's using a lap top? I doubt if he has anything really fancy. It's just a good shade tree mechanic.
I got what I wanted, but people keep replying with more advice after the fact. Nice of them and all, and from some I learned a lot and thanked them, but this thread ran its course after post #15.
Again, thanks to all who replied with good information. It's posters like you who make LS1Tech a great place to come to learn.
Now, please, if a mod sees this...
#28
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The misfire problem that you described, if it wasn't the O2 sensor or anything of that sort, sounds electrical. I had a very similar problem. When I put my car under load, in other words, went up a hill and allowed overdrive to leisurely kick in, my car would have a power loss and sound like it was backfiring or sputtering. I have access to a diagnostic scanner, so after scanning it, there was no codes for knocking. I did have an O2 sensor code, however, it is because I cut my cat. off and with that the O2 sensor won't read correctly. I then cleaned my K&N filter, thinking that I over oiled it after the previous cleaning and the oil had gotten on my MAF. This didn't help. As it turns out, I had a bad coil pack. I then replaced all of my plugs, wires, and bad coil and the problem was fixed. But sounds like to me this is an old post and surely by know the problem has been fixed.
#29
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
With those mods, the ecm isnt exactly "overfueling", its merely COMPENSATING. It merely wants to correct the running conditions so that the mixture is at stoichiometry.
If you were to scan it, you would probably find the fuel trims on the positive side. This doesnt mean the car is running lean or rich. What it means is the computer is adding fuel to get the A/F back to stoich, which is what its supposed to do.
Too often these terms are thrown around, used in the wrong context. Because a motor, car is running on the + or - side on the fuel trim does not mean its running rich or lean. Most of the time, they are running at stoich. Its just that the computer has to COMPENSATE for certain conditions to keep the engine at stoich.
Any changes to the VE table doesnt make the engine run any leaner, or richer. It only causes the ECM to compensate LESS.
If you were to scan it, you would probably find the fuel trims on the positive side. This doesnt mean the car is running lean or rich. What it means is the computer is adding fuel to get the A/F back to stoich, which is what its supposed to do.
Too often these terms are thrown around, used in the wrong context. Because a motor, car is running on the + or - side on the fuel trim does not mean its running rich or lean. Most of the time, they are running at stoich. Its just that the computer has to COMPENSATE for certain conditions to keep the engine at stoich.
Any changes to the VE table doesnt make the engine run any leaner, or richer. It only causes the ECM to compensate LESS.
Just a beginner attempting to learn...
Sharpe, I did not mean to steer you in the wrong direction.
R/
Frat
#30
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Originally Posted by Fratsit
Thank you for explaining it like that , although I am now a bit confused. I had asked a while back as to what effect the VE table has on fueling the engine and it was explained that the higher the value in any given cell (in % of Theoretical Value or g*K/kPa) the more fuel the PCM would give the engine.
The problem with a VE value that's too small, is that the PCM adds fuel to correct it, and this additional fuel is also added when the car goes WOT. That causes the AFR at WOT to be incorrect (i.e., if you wanted a 13.0 AFR at WOT, and the VE cell you were in just before you went WOT was 2% lean, the WOT AFR would be ~ 12.75).
If the car runs rich, and the PCM leans it out, those values are not carried over to WOT. Generally you want to tune the VE to be 2-4% rich.
#31
Originally Posted by Slvr00Bird
The misfire problem that you described, if it wasn't the O2 sensor or anything of that sort, sounds electrical. I had a very similar problem. When I put my car under load, in other words, went up a hill and allowed overdrive to leisurely kick in, my car would have a power loss and sound like it was backfiring or sputtering. I have access to a diagnostic scanner, so after scanning it, there was no codes for knocking. I did have an O2 sensor code, however, it is because I cut my cat. off and with that the O2 sensor won't read correctly. I then cleaned my K&N filter, thinking that I over oiled it after the previous cleaning and the oil had gotten on my MAF. This didn't help. As it turns out, I had a bad coil pack. I then replaced all of my plugs, wires, and bad coil and the problem was fixed. But sounds like to me this is an old post and surely by know the problem has been fixed.
My car, however, doesn't have this problem under load/low RPMs. It's at 4500 and above when racing/passing.
Probably this week I'm going to swap the bank 1 and 2 sensors and see if it still gives me the same code or not. While I'm at it, I'm going to visually check the plug wires over better to make sure they didn't get "roasty toasty to the mosty" on a header.
I'm pretty sure it's either a bad O2 or unmetered air in the intake tract. Really, really hoping its the former rather than the latter.
Thanks for all the advice and helpful replies!