Fix your P1133 / P1153 codes
04-18-2019, 01:34 PM
#21
Registered User
Found this thread just in time, Think I'm headed in the right direction
just installed new cats and new bosh 02's still throwing codes 1133 and 1153,
The car also has headers.Gonna bring the Camaro back in Wednesday to relocate the 02's
guess im also switching over to the Corvette 02's any specific brand or part # Thanks in advance !
Stay tuned
just installed new cats and new bosh 02's still throwing codes 1133 and 1153,
The car also has headers.Gonna bring the Camaro back in Wednesday to relocate the 02's
guess im also switching over to the Corvette 02's any specific brand or part # Thanks in advance !
Stay tuned
decided to go straight to #6 and find a tuner , long story short had the 02 codes deleted , car passed NY emissions !
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kerrytaylor212 (02-26-2021)
07-26-2021, 05:18 PM
#23
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i know this is an old thread but hoping for any help. ive been getting the dreaded p1153, i started with a new delphi o2 sensor because my tahoe is a 2001 with 180k on the clock. still getting the codes, i replaced the plug due to some corrosion in pin 3 ground. still getting the code. i used a wire tracer/fox and hound and verified wires good all the way to pcm and ground point on back of block. on the exhaust can the leaks be downstream of the sensors and still cause problems? mine has a ghetto fabbed exhaust that is in desperate need of replacement. after the merge collector from bank 1 and 2 there are some holes. can those still cause the problem? im only getting the bank 2 code. only other idea i have is the factory pcm may need a reflash there is a tsb for it that changes the switching thressholds. last idea i have is having the codes turned off by tune
07-26-2021, 08:52 PM
#24
TECH Senior Member
Do you still have both converters? You have a sensor before and after each converter for a total of four. Is that code for the forward or rear O2 sensor? If the rear, you could have a bad converter. That is what the rear sensor is for.
05-15-2022, 01:11 PM
#25
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Hey sorry to hear that your having such large issues with this code. Thank god you got people like me who have spent literally thousands in order to find out how to stop this issue. Im going explain to you how to trouble shoot it. I cant say I am going to fix your issue. But, this is definatly a good place to start.
1.) Bad o2's -- It is pretty common for these things to be a little finiky. If they are old, just replace them. I know $75 a pop is a bit pricy, but dont just buy one. Buy a set if the ones your replacing are old. If one is going out, the other is shortly behind. I dont really have a preferance so choose at your own will.
If your o2's are good and you know this by trouble shooting (switching sides) and your still getting codes keep going down the list of 2,3,4,5,6.
Some people have been having issues because of stock Delco's dont switch as fast as the rear Corvette o2's (usually after a header installation). So, an option is the rear Corvette o2's. Another added bonus is with the longer cable compared to the Camaro cable. This works especially well if you have headers because of the relocation of the hole in the header itself. An o2 shouldnt cost you more then 75 bucks and can pick them up almost any automotive store.
2.) Heater Wrap -- I personally didnt do this option. Many people have tried this and from what I have mostly read, this does not fix the majority of the issues. Secondly, I can see this greatly reducing the life of a ceramic header so I didnt do it. It is an option, not one that I would recommend, but an option nonetheless.
3.) Exhaust Leak -- It is possible, even the SMALLEST pin hole of a leak can throw off your o2 making it think its bad because its getting too lean of a "smell" causing to make your side run richer. Having an exhaust leak will also lower your temperature in that side of the exhaust. So make very sure this is not an issue. Your best option on checking this is getting the car on a lift and go over every square inch of the exhaust. Do not take any shortcuts with this, it could save you alot of money and time. Solutions can vary from tac weld, clamp, ect ect... if the hole is too big you may have to replace the exhaust system entirely use your best judgement on that though.
4.) Gaskets -- Many reasons for this is a recent/older header installation. Many people try and reuse gaskets. Just dont do it, if you think it might be a gasket that has burned out, replace it. Another thing you have to be worrysome about is if your have recently done a big bottom out. By that i mean scraping... If you have, you can possibly damage the header itself to where it doesnt quite meat up with header to gasket to engine installation. Therefore resulting in exhaust leak. Try pushing on the collector (when its cold) to the inside and out of the car to make sure it cant rattle. If it can you got major problems and a code is the least of your worries.
5.) Electrical -- Make sure that you go under your car and visibly check all the wiring that touches the o2 all the way back to your computer. Even if a wire is crimped, it could have been damaged. Check for burns, wear and tear, and even possibly missing wiring for you lowered guys. Now, im no electrician but i have a friend that is very savy with electronics to find out if all my wires were getting power. Make sure your getting enough power through your wires. If anyone has the spec's on that please post below for the "electrical buddy".
6.) Tune -- If you have tried the other alternatives this could very well be your problem. Sometimes the insufficent switching is going too fast now because of the (most likely header setup) temperature has dropped significantly. So, in other words, your car is saying its exhaust is way too cold for the o2's liking and cant find the right temerature it wants to operate at. Your tune will have to be altered slightly on how it checks the temperature so its less tempermental. Or, you could always do the ultimate "fix" and just delete the codes. I have read and seen where people have done this and actually fix the issue. This doesnt mean its an actual fix, it just means that it wont run the car in "open loop" causing your car to run rich.
If you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask. I have battled this issue for almost two years. I fixed the issue by going through all these things. I wish you the best at beating the dreadful 1153 and 1133 codes that kicked my *** for so long.
1.) Bad o2's -- It is pretty common for these things to be a little finiky. If they are old, just replace them. I know $75 a pop is a bit pricy, but dont just buy one. Buy a set if the ones your replacing are old. If one is going out, the other is shortly behind. I dont really have a preferance so choose at your own will.
If your o2's are good and you know this by trouble shooting (switching sides) and your still getting codes keep going down the list of 2,3,4,5,6.
Some people have been having issues because of stock Delco's dont switch as fast as the rear Corvette o2's (usually after a header installation). So, an option is the rear Corvette o2's. Another added bonus is with the longer cable compared to the Camaro cable. This works especially well if you have headers because of the relocation of the hole in the header itself. An o2 shouldnt cost you more then 75 bucks and can pick them up almost any automotive store.
2.) Heater Wrap -- I personally didnt do this option. Many people have tried this and from what I have mostly read, this does not fix the majority of the issues. Secondly, I can see this greatly reducing the life of a ceramic header so I didnt do it. It is an option, not one that I would recommend, but an option nonetheless.
3.) Exhaust Leak -- It is possible, even the SMALLEST pin hole of a leak can throw off your o2 making it think its bad because its getting too lean of a "smell" causing to make your side run richer. Having an exhaust leak will also lower your temperature in that side of the exhaust. So make very sure this is not an issue. Your best option on checking this is getting the car on a lift and go over every square inch of the exhaust. Do not take any shortcuts with this, it could save you alot of money and time. Solutions can vary from tac weld, clamp, ect ect... if the hole is too big you may have to replace the exhaust system entirely use your best judgement on that though.
4.) Gaskets -- Many reasons for this is a recent/older header installation. Many people try and reuse gaskets. Just dont do it, if you think it might be a gasket that has burned out, replace it. Another thing you have to be worrysome about is if your have recently done a big bottom out. By that i mean scraping... If you have, you can possibly damage the header itself to where it doesnt quite meat up with header to gasket to engine installation. Therefore resulting in exhaust leak. Try pushing on the collector (when its cold) to the inside and out of the car to make sure it cant rattle. If it can you got major problems and a code is the least of your worries.
5.) Electrical -- Make sure that you go under your car and visibly check all the wiring that touches the o2 all the way back to your computer. Even if a wire is crimped, it could have been damaged. Check for burns, wear and tear, and even possibly missing wiring for you lowered guys. Now, im no electrician but i have a friend that is very savy with electronics to find out if all my wires were getting power. Make sure your getting enough power through your wires. If anyone has the spec's on that please post below for the "electrical buddy".
6.) Tune -- If you have tried the other alternatives this could very well be your problem. Sometimes the insufficent switching is going too fast now because of the (most likely header setup) temperature has dropped significantly. So, in other words, your car is saying its exhaust is way too cold for the o2's liking and cant find the right temerature it wants to operate at. Your tune will have to be altered slightly on how it checks the temperature so its less tempermental. Or, you could always do the ultimate "fix" and just delete the codes. I have read and seen where people have done this and actually fix the issue. This doesnt mean its an actual fix, it just means that it wont run the car in "open loop" causing your car to run rich.
If you have any questions please dont hesitate to ask. I have battled this issue for almost two years. I fixed the issue by going through all these things. I wish you the best at beating the dreadful 1153 and 1133 codes that kicked my *** for so long.
