Electrical short not letting car be tuned? HELP!
08-14-2008, 06:32 PM
#1
Electrical short not letting car be tuned? HELP! Just had a cam put in and is now being tuned. Aparently today the plug in under the stearing wheel the wires have a short or something somewhere. 2 cables have been used and have (broke/melted) stopped working. Each time some tunning has taken place before it stopped. The chances of 2 cables being old and stop working seem pretty slim to me. About 3 months ago at a different place I had the car tuned with no issues, so it guess it has to have happen recently. After getting a hood and putting a cam in, I really do not have the money to pay someone to trouble shoot this problem. If anyone has some advice on how to go about this, it would be really appreciated.
08-15-2008, 10:54 AM
#4
for starters... Start w/ a diagram, and find out what those cables do, and BE SURE they are plugged in where they should be.
Then, once they are ID'd, check to be sure they are not rubbed bare, pinched, have no bad connections, etc. From the diagram/shop manual, determine when/if each cable is supposed to be "hot". Then, unhook both ends, and check for continuity, shorts to other wires, and to ground[s]. OK? Then rehook only the end that is supposed to be the power source, and check for voltage at each of the other ends.
Also, look for shorted devices, such as relays, fans, switches, sensors, etc.
I use a digital VOM w/ sound emitter, and a test lite that's safe for EFI use. It also has a sound emiter, and a polarity lite, so you don't have to see the meter, or the test lite to check continuity...
Then, once they are ID'd, check to be sure they are not rubbed bare, pinched, have no bad connections, etc. From the diagram/shop manual, determine when/if each cable is supposed to be "hot". Then, unhook both ends, and check for continuity, shorts to other wires, and to ground[s]. OK? Then rehook only the end that is supposed to be the power source, and check for voltage at each of the other ends.
Also, look for shorted devices, such as relays, fans, switches, sensors, etc.
I use a digital VOM w/ sound emitter, and a test lite that's safe for EFI use. It also has a sound emiter, and a polarity lite, so you don't have to see the meter, or the test lite to check continuity...
08-15-2008, 01:38 PM
#5
Hmm well some other possibilities mention were there wasnt enough power from keying the car on and off. The only time this problem would happen is on the 3rd flash. Logging wasnt a problem and were still able to get a few flashes in. After this problem instead of using the plug in under the dash, they just went straight to the computer to flash it. No problems there.