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TA buyer, M6 or A4, t-tops or convert.? etcect

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Old 04-13-2010, 12:00 PM
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Question TA buyer, M6 or A4, t-tops or convert.? etcect

I am looking at a Trans Am (preferably WS6) for around 8-10K$. I figure it will have around 70K miles, so is there anything I need to watch out for? I know certain cars have certain issues that are standard. Tranny's on durango's, pumps on tiburon's, etc. Another question is auto or manual, I learned to drive a manual when I was 12, and all the cars I have owned and loved have been also. I prefer it to drive, but what are the differences as far as repair and maintenance costs, and miles to the gallon? Of course I'm going to drive it hard . I know convertibles also affect insurance, but do T-tops? I have had 9 violations with no points on my license, but as an 18 year old college kid insurance is pretty damn high. My camaro has t-tops and the insurance is the same as my firebird without, but seeing as a trans am is a hell of a lot more powerful they might try to get the money out of me. Anything a buyer needs to look out for, please feel free to post and help me out!!!! Thanks for the help!!!
Old 04-13-2010, 12:30 PM
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Hey man I'll give you my perspective. When I was 16 I bought an A4 Camaro with ttops and loved it to death. Now I'm 20 I picked up a WS6 M6. I would honestly never go back to an automatic unless I was going for an all out drag car. As for ttops and verts I feel Ttops cant be beat. I dont like the looks of any verts and ttops are in a league of their own. Cant beat them on a summer day and I can have them in and out in under a minute. As far as insurance were both going to pay alot being young. If your that concerned call and get quotes with your company based on what you perfer weather it be an A4 w ttops or an M6 drop top. Shouldnt be a huge difference in price. MPG is def better with an M6 but if your gona beat on it as you said MPG shouldnt be a factor in your choice. The 01 WS6 I bought around Thanksgiving had 65,000 miles on it bone stock. All Ive had to replace was a headlight motor and window motor. Car runs strong and looks flawless. Find something thats well taken care of and somewhat free of mods and you should be golden. Good luck!
Old 04-13-2010, 02:53 PM
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PERFECT!!! Thank you so much.
Old 04-13-2010, 03:31 PM
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Yes, convertibles are usually higher, especially if you get 'comprehensive' coverage. My Trans Am 'vert is my most expensive insurance coverage of the 3 'verts I own. With you being in college I would hate to know what it would cost. Ouch! I'm sure T-tops are better.
Old 04-13-2010, 05:59 PM
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Ah! thank you for the input as a vert owner!
Old 04-14-2010, 12:26 AM
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Anyone else?
Old 04-14-2010, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Garr
seeing as a trans am is a hell of a lot more powerful
Not true. Camaros and Firebirds are the same cars drivetrain-wise.

I HATE having T-Tops. While driving, put your finger on the spot where the roof and the panel meets. They move around. When I took the tops out, the sun blinded me and the wind blew everything around. I have shades covering them and I'll never take them out again.

Make sure your new car is a LS1 car, 98 and up. Way more stuff in the aftermarket for them, less problems than the LT1 has, lighter, more top end power, I could go on. I've had a '94 and the best thing I did to it was replace it with a '99.
Old 04-14-2010, 07:56 AM
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[QUOTE=Paul Bell;13185517]
I HATE having T-Tops. While driving, put your finger on the spot where the roof and the panel meets. They move around. When I took the tops out, the sun blinded me and the wind blew everything around. I have shades covering them and I'll never take them out again.
[QUOTE]

Do a search, there is an adjustment you can make to fix this (it's actually pretty easy).
Old 04-14-2010, 08:09 AM
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OP - What do you plan to do with the TA? I purchased my TA with a 6 speed and had never planned on doing more than bolt ons, maybe a 12.5 car.

However, I went beyond that of course. and once you do that, the 6 speed becomes a pain in the butt, even if you know how to drive. The factory hydraulics suck, as does the stok clutch. I wish I would have went auto - couldve swapped in a performa built level 5 and been done with it.
The factory 4L60s are week though, so basically it doesn't take much for an LS1 to beat up either an A4 or M6.
Here are some vert rough costs and ideas on what each will cost as far as mods / repairs:

[U]M6[U]
aftermarket build up - $2000+
Tick master - $330 or so
Performance clutch and flywheel - $700 +
new slave - $125
short throw - $150

A4
Aftermarket build - $2000+
Trans Cooler - $150 +/-
Converter - $500 +
Flexplate - $100

obviously these are rough prices, but things to consider if you plan on modding the engine
Old 04-14-2010, 08:09 AM
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OK, I've searched 8 different ways, nothing about this. I'd like to see this. Could you post a link or search terms that'll provide good results?
Old 04-14-2010, 01:21 PM
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If this is just gonna be your weekend cruiser, I'd go M6 & t-tops without a doubt. I have a standard WS.6 /w t-tops and I love it. Best of both worlds, tops off on a nice day, without losing the lines of the car like a vert.
Old 04-14-2010, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck13
If this is just gonna be your weekend cruiser, I'd go M6 & t-tops without a doubt. I have a standard WS.6 /w t-tops and I love it. Best of both worlds, tops off on a nice day, without losing the lines of the car like a vert.
Couldnt agree more.
Old 04-18-2010, 06:34 PM
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I am basically sold on the t tops you guys. Thanks!!!!! About the M6 vs A4, I really want like. 400 horses or so, and im sure I will put nitrous on it because my stepdad is an expert sort of. I LOVE driving the manual, but if in the long run its gonna end up losing me a few grand, it may not be worth it. Thoughts?




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