nochey

New to the board and figured i would look here for advice.

Im looking at a 1998 blue green chameleon T/A. Non WS6 All stock. Guy is asking $6900 for it.
The car has 71,000 miles on it and i got the autocheck on it and it checked out good. Scored 75 where similar cars scored 36-66 so im assuming thats good. Car looks to be in pretty good shape. Dash had the famous cracks in it but there were no other issues with the interior that i saw. Only a couple issues with the paint but ive seen alot worse. The power windows, doors, hatch, power seat, and everything else worked. A/C was good and stereo was good. The windows didnt roll up real fast but they worked. There are some issues with the car though and i wanted to discuss them here before i go any further. I drove the car today and i noticed at idle the oil pressure was anywhere from 10-20 and when i got on it the most it got to was about 50. Is this normal? Im assuming the car has 5w30 in it and was thinking by going to 10w30 the pressure would go up? I popped the hood and the oil was where it should be on the stick. Here are the other things i noticed

1. Steering didnt feel normal, car wasnt hard to turn but it definitely didnt feel right... thinking the power steering pump is either going out or about to. Is this a common issue? How much to fix?
2. The shades for the t-tops were missing. Not a big deal but something i would need to replace asap cause its hot in texas.
3. Passenger side lights would not pop up. More $$$ but should be an easy fix.
4. Left blinker apparently wasnt working cause i was damn near rear ended turning. It showed a steady green light on dash and not blinking. Probably a cheap, easy fix.

Any other issues with the car were cosmetic and expected for a 12 year old car. The guy wants $6900 for it but im thinking its too much. Any suggestions out there on what i should offer? The cars inspection sticker was out at end of May so hes gonna have to get the blinker, headlights, etc in working order to get the sticker. That is unless he knows someone who will do it anyways.
So, what should i offer? Im not sure how much he's willing to come off the price.

Thanks
CC

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Let em know u will give him 6200 since u have to fix all that. Then if he tries going up, just set your max and don't pass that. Max 6500 but just work your way up to that. Good luck. If not there is other ones and they are in better condition

NC01TA

I agree with Manny's above post but I would offer even less. If you can't fix these problem items yourself you are looking at serious $$$. $300+ for the headlight. Yes, I was quoted this once from a dealership. Window motors, power steering, possible electrical issue (blinker), etc... will get you up to $8,000 easy before you even think of anything else. No, do NOT expect all these issues with a 12 year old car. Many T/As have been well cared for and maintained. Why do I get a feeling every single fluid will need to be changed in this car as well?? If you can't get it for somewhere in the $5,500-$6,000 range, just walk away and get a 'no issues' car that someone cared about for $7,000 - $8,000. Don't pay good money for a car with so many things wrong with it.

nochey

I think I'll offer $5900. I'm gonna let him sit on it a few days though before I offer. If it sells, it sells.

NC01TA

That's the right attitude. Many more out there. Good luck!

mike171562

iTrader: (4)

The blinker is probably just a bulb, the head light could be anything, my passenger side light sticks sometimes, you just have to switch it a couple of times. doesn't sound like anything serious, the steering could be ball joints or bad tires.

nochey

Thanks mike. after i drove the car he had me turn the lights on and off several times while he messed with it but nothing happened. The steering was my only real concern, that and the oil pressure.

Rhin

I would avoid it. My 98 had no issues other than a dead back light on the Monsoon head unit and a cracked dash. I drove it hard, but I also took care of it. Chances are, if there is one electrical issue, there are several others.

nochey

The only reason i was looking at the car anyways is the mileage. How many miles are too many on a well maintained car? I dont wanna end up screwing myself.

Rhin

It truly depends on when the last major service was. At 100k i normally do my head gaskets, timing belt/chain, water pump, pulleys, and i will determine if my heads need a valve job.

Most people do not do this. I would say 80k for most cars, if they have records for major items, such as those i mentioned, i would say around. Even if driven hard, a properly maintained engine, provided it wasn't abused, should last 200k+.

If it has steering issues, then I would avoid it, that to me makes the vehicle was not properly maintained otherwise there would be no issue...

nochey

Im assuming theres a steering issue. There was no noise or anything but the steering just felt heavy to me. Didnt have to fight it or anything it just didnt feel right. My wife drove it as well and it was the first thing she noticed.

nochey

Heres a link to the car

http://www.use.com/4041c5e997172b343c41#photo=1

NC01TA

A 70,000 mile engine, if owned by the right owner who properly maintained it, can be just 1/2 (or even better) of the way through it's life. Some LS1 engines reach 200,000 miles! If owned by a kid, and abused, little upkeep, etc.. the engine may be shot already. No engine is bulletproof if not maintained. Do your homework or you will get screwed which is your fear. The images you provided show a really decent car. However you noticed some potentially serious issues. Good that you noticed everything. Also you are in tune with your wife's feelings and your own as well. Don't ignore these feelings unless you have NO idea what a Trans Am drives like. Educate yourself before a purchase. MY PRIOR POST AND ADVICE STILL STANDS. Good luck!

nochey

I've found a couple more I'm gonna go test drive. Maybe the steering is normal. Should have a better idea after I drive a couple more.

Rhin

Another cause for concern is mismatched rims. In the pictures, the front driver's is of the correct type, but the driver's rear is of the wrong style. This would indicate that a rim suffered enough damage to warrant a replacement. I have several sets of rims, because I have several rolling sets of rolling chassis that are being used to rebuild my 95 with an LS1; but i never mix and match the rim sets.

There are definitely more out there. Research will prevent you from being screwed; it will also prevent buyer's remorse.

Edit: Also, I have never considered a vehicle's steering heavy unless there was an issue with power steering.

nochey

Thank I didn't even notice the wheels

Rhin

Not a problem. My '98 was my baby since I was 17. I drove and maintained her for a good 7 years before a drunk driver forced me off the road, and as a result, i bent the frame to a point she is no longer safe for speeds in excess of 75. I know that car and how it should be, pretty well.

One thing to look at, the hatch lines to the uni body should be parallel. If you are concerned about proper body fitment, I have all the GM specs for those (they helped prove to my insurance co that the 98 was still severely damaged after their shop did a half assed repair). If the body is out of whack, then the vehicle has been wrecked. The hood should also be parallel to the fenders. T-Tops should not have offset gaps, however, due to tolerances provided by GM, they can be slightly, the T-Top to B-Pillar should be parallel.

The 95 GM shop manuals states that these lines must be parallel within 1mm. The 98 GM shop manuals do not mention this measurement. Non-parallel body lines are usually a sign for concern; another sign of concern is ripples in the rear quarter panels which are the result of stresses caused by drag racing.

IMO, mechanical reliability is only half of what you should look at. The other half is a mixture of interior/exterior aesthetic condition and frame/unibody reliability.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

What's up with the black one in the background??

nochey

He wants $7700 for it but to me it didn't look as good in person as the bg chameleon one. Its a 99 and has 95,000 miles on it.

Rhin

Is that one a Firehawk or is it an aftermarket hood? I would be leery of venturing into a car that had aftermarket stuff without receipts to prove parts and or work?