Window motor myths & truths
08-08-2015, 11:04 AM
#24
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Central,NJ
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Installed on passenger side, works about as well as the original driver side.
A few minor issues. The holes in the motor assembly needed to be enlarged to fit the supplied bolts. Once tightened down to the regulator the seam along the bottom opened up.
08-31-2015, 07:27 PM
#28
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
These questions and answers are from a discussion where forums member wssix99 gives us the straight dope on window motor issues and fixes (THANKS wssix99!)
When selecting up or down, it only goes a few inches and stops. After giving it a minute, I select it again and it will go another few inches. Almost like it has to recharge a little. I'm pretty sure the motor may be toast but it is a fairly new motor that was replaced by the old owner for the same issue. So I'm thinking there is possibly something else which may cause this.
This is a classic failure of the thermal resistor inside the motor. (Time to replace the motor.) The thermal resistor cuts off the motor when it senses resistance, typically once the window is all the way up or all the way down. As it wears out and/or gets corroded and/or gets contaminated, it gets to sensitive and the normal resistance of the glass moving will cause it to cut off prematurely.
Letting the motor rest for a few minutes, will allow the resistor to cool off a bit to the point where you can move the window a little bit more. Pushing or pulling on the glass may give it enough "help" so the glass will move further in between times where the resistor craps out on you.
You'll want to address this ASAP, because the problem gets (quickly) progressively worse.
It sounds like this is a problem with Firebirds (and Camaros). I wonder if there may be some type of recall with GM. In the mean time, how did you go about rewiring the passenger side?
The motor functions as designed. The part was first put on GM cars in the '60's, lived on in the parts bin, and made its way on to our cars. So, you are getting 1960 motor performance in your 98-02 car.
Dorman has created an all-new motor with an updated design that performs MUCH better than the OEM unit. So, you'll want to get the new updated design for your replacements. Don't be tempted to get the "original" part - it's been out of production for a long time and odds are that you'll purchase a reman - even if its marketed as "new." This site is full of posts where our members have installed "new" OEM motors to have them go belly-up right out of the box.
(The Dorman motor is number 742-101, same for L & R)
You'll also want to be sure to read up on the "shbox method" ( http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html ) for changing the motors. It will make the job MUCH easier and will do less damage to the door. Changing the motor with GM's factory procedure puts a lot of stress on the regulator rivet holes and can do huge $$$ damage to the door.
Unless you rewire the passenger window with the autotrix fix both motors have a tendency to burn up fast especially if your using them at the same time.
This is completely false and untrue. Autotrix doesn't even make this claim. (... because it is not true.) There is a bunch of internet vodoo out there regarding these motors and the Autotrix kits have risen in the folklore to be something that they aren't.
The ONLY thing Autotrix kits do is reduce the normal voltage drop that the motors see. This makes a bad motor look better than it really is.
There is nothing wrong with the circuitry in the cars. If there was, there would have been problems with cars coming from the factory. (that didn't happen)
IMO - Now that the new motor design is widely available, with a lifetime warranty, relay kits are a waste of money.
When selecting up or down, it only goes a few inches and stops. After giving it a minute, I select it again and it will go another few inches. Almost like it has to recharge a little. I'm pretty sure the motor may be toast but it is a fairly new motor that was replaced by the old owner for the same issue. So I'm thinking there is possibly something else which may cause this.
This is a classic failure of the thermal resistor inside the motor. (Time to replace the motor.) The thermal resistor cuts off the motor when it senses resistance, typically once the window is all the way up or all the way down. As it wears out and/or gets corroded and/or gets contaminated, it gets to sensitive and the normal resistance of the glass moving will cause it to cut off prematurely.
Letting the motor rest for a few minutes, will allow the resistor to cool off a bit to the point where you can move the window a little bit more. Pushing or pulling on the glass may give it enough "help" so the glass will move further in between times where the resistor craps out on you.
You'll want to address this ASAP, because the problem gets (quickly) progressively worse.
It sounds like this is a problem with Firebirds (and Camaros). I wonder if there may be some type of recall with GM. In the mean time, how did you go about rewiring the passenger side?
The motor functions as designed. The part was first put on GM cars in the '60's, lived on in the parts bin, and made its way on to our cars. So, you are getting 1960 motor performance in your 98-02 car.
Dorman has created an all-new motor with an updated design that performs MUCH better than the OEM unit. So, you'll want to get the new updated design for your replacements. Don't be tempted to get the "original" part - it's been out of production for a long time and odds are that you'll purchase a reman - even if its marketed as "new." This site is full of posts where our members have installed "new" OEM motors to have them go belly-up right out of the box.
(The Dorman motor is number 742-101, same for L & R)
You'll also want to be sure to read up on the "shbox method" ( http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html ) for changing the motors. It will make the job MUCH easier and will do less damage to the door. Changing the motor with GM's factory procedure puts a lot of stress on the regulator rivet holes and can do huge $$$ damage to the door.
Unless you rewire the passenger window with the autotrix fix both motors have a tendency to burn up fast especially if your using them at the same time.
This is completely false and untrue. Autotrix doesn't even make this claim. (... because it is not true.) There is a bunch of internet vodoo out there regarding these motors and the Autotrix kits have risen in the folklore to be something that they aren't.
The ONLY thing Autotrix kits do is reduce the normal voltage drop that the motors see. This makes a bad motor look better than it really is.
There is nothing wrong with the circuitry in the cars. If there was, there would have been problems with cars coming from the factory. (that didn't happen)
IMO - Now that the new motor design is widely available, with a lifetime warranty, relay kits are a waste of money.
08-31-2015, 07:48 PM
#29
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I noticed your in Cincinnati. I live in Loveland. Did you happen to find out anything on the window motors ? Thanks
09-08-2015, 11:06 AM
#30
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING
Update - July 2015 - It appears that Dorman has substituted their 742-101 motor back with the old design. So far, we have not been able to locate who has picked up the truly new design or found a vendor.
History - Prior to Dorman selling the new design, it was sold as a Duralast. Dorman picked it up from them and Duralast dropped it. It's now MIA.
Update - July 2015 - It appears that Dorman has substituted their 742-101 motor back with the old design. So far, we have not been able to locate who has picked up the truly new design or found a vendor.
History - Prior to Dorman selling the new design, it was sold as a Duralast. Dorman picked it up from them and Duralast dropped it. It's now MIA.
maybe this substitute is Myth also
09-08-2015, 01:00 PM
#31
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So does this mean the one they are selling now is the "good" one ? I just bought one a week ago at AutoZone with the right Dorman part #. Do you think I should use it ? Thanks
09-08-2015, 04:35 PM
#33
Teching In
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-24-2016, 11:57 PM
#35
On The Tree
01-25-2016, 07:10 PM
#37
On The Tree
LOL 