demonsmokr

Hey guys. Haven't been here since i sold my 75 formula. Good riddance to that thing.

Anyways, I've decided i cannot live without a Pontiac. I sold my truck, and plan to pick up a Trans Am Saturday.

I know these cars fairly well, but i still wanted to come here and get some opinions on what to check.

He has it priced on the high side $6991, it's a 1996 Trans Am with the Ram Air WS6 package, 6 speed, black on black leather, t tops. It's supposedly stock. Mileage is just under 107k miles.

His price is above retail according to KBB and NADA. I hate both of these because they give no love for cars from the 90s. I think they're working to fix the industry so you feel more likely to buy a newer car on payments. I can get more in depth about this, but that's for another time.

First question, what should i pay for this car? I don't mine paying more than KBB suggests, but how much more? My plan was to try and haggle him into the 5k range.

Second question, what should i look for? Where should i focus? I've never drove a 6spd f body, what should i look out for beyond the obvious clutch and feel of how she shifts. Anything specific?

I know of the typical problems with headlights, window motors, etc etc, what else should i check?

I'm 90% sure i want this car if i can get him to a reasonable price. But I want to make sure I'm not getting into something about to take a dump.

I'm good with cars, so i know what to look for in regards to basic mechanics and what not. I just want to knows if there's more specific things about these LT1 cars i need to focus on.

Thanks in advance for any info. I'll be a regular here once i get me a good Trans Am.

Please feel free to give any advice, criticisms, concerns, horror stories, etc etc. Anything and everything will be appreciated.

2002 T/A

All of these up to 2002 have issues with the release bearing getting hot and hydraulics getting hot, they get hung up when shifting, be patient. Do not remove the cap on the clutch cylinder unless you are ready to swap the fluid, it is very hydroscopic and likely already smells like fish oil! I swapped out my master cylinder and hydraulics when I changed the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. As for the tranny, it is prob ready for refresh too depending on how it was driven! I love my T/A, PITA to work on, LOL.

wu6fiend

The 4th Gen cars are pretty reliable, but they do have a few minor (easily fixable) issues. If one/both of the window motors are slow or not working, that's not the end of the world. The motors are quite inexpensive, and the re/re can be done in your driveway. I've done both sides now, following instructions from the internet. The headlight motors are no big deal either. They don't cost very much (you can do the headlight gear flip, but its really a waste of time), and the fix is again quite simple. I've done both of mine, too. Interior plastics are fragile, and the leather seats are poor quality, so you will likely see some wear on the inside. A lot of the interior bits are long discontinued by GM, and there is not much aftermarket support parts-wise for the 4th Gen cars yet, so you might have to search eBay or scrap yards if you are looking for a particular interior part. Tires are expensive, so if they are bald, there's a negotiating point. The Opti on the LT1 cars can be problematic, but a 1996 IIRC has the vented one, so you should be ok. I would check for water leaks from the T-tops, and make sure the AC works, and that you don't have a heater core leak. Check the carpet, front and back, it should be dry. If you have burnt out steering wheel lights (the radio controls) that is fixable too (I fixed mine for less than $2). These are really fun cars, I hope the one you go to look at is a good candidate. I'd rather pay a little more for a well maintained car, than get a car that has been abused for a cheap price. Good luck, and keep us posted!

Jaxem

iTrader: (3)

if it runs well that seems like a reasonable price to me, M6's often get a premium, and everyone likes a WS6.

I picked up my 95 M6 with 150k and a transmission needing rebuilt for around 4k.

i think 5-6k is a fair price.

I'd make sure to check all around the engine with a flashlight for oil, a bad rear main or pretty much anything besides the valve covers is going to cost you time and/or money which should let you negotiate down a bit.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Alright, I'll be that guy.

Look into getting a later LS1 car instead.

Jaxem

iTrader: (3)

I thought we were going to just ignore that particular elephant in the room Paul , but that's always a good option. At least in my area most of the LS1 F-bodys i see up for sale are going for almost twice what LT1's go for.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Mid 5k is probably a alright price only because it's a WS6 (I covet the hood). As these cars get older and go through multiple owners lack of or poor maint. starts to show up especially with the LT1 engine. It seems you had trouble with your '75, if this '96 doesn't have a good maint history it will likely be just as bad. GM has been discontinuing parts for the '93-'97 cars at a accelerating rate so finding parts is starting to be a issue. Two parts that come to mind are the LT4 knock module thats needed to modify the knock signal for roller rockers, the other is the LT1 T56 clutch fork has been on national back order for at least 6 months. The best optispark you can buy is either a Delphi or ACDelco although neither of those are made new anymore. GM is only selling Reman optis. At 107K the opti on the '96 could probably use a new cap and rotor. I've had my car for 6yrs and have been buying things that are specific to the LT1 to have in stock for when GM invariably stops making them (waterpump drive coupling and oil pump drive stub). I don't mean to sound all doom and gloom but it really is a crummy situation.
If you're buying the car with the intention of doing heads and cam ect. it is getting harder to find places to tune the LT1 cars, seems like most places don't want to deal with them anymore. Just last year the Madtuner stopped doing LT1s. He tuned my car and it runs great plus he's local to me but no more.

The LT1 clutch is a reverse pull type and in keeping with the rest of the drivetrain the original mfg. Valeo, has stopped making it. No matter the brand of clutch you look at they all use the same made in china pressure plate that they can't seem to balance correctly. Let me tell you it's FUN to pull the trans back out after installing a new clutch because it's out of balance.

As far as the body goes look for a cracked dash panel behind the windshield. The LT1 car tail light grid pattern gets delaminated. Check for rust, I've seen 4th gens in the junk yard that have the lower aft corner of the door sill rotted through. Look to make sure the doors aren't cracked where the hinges attach from people leaning on the door to get in and out.

All this combined and as Paul said you may want to look for a '98-'02 car but they have their issues too. Cracked door panels and bubbling roof skins.

Check out shbox.com for tons of good info and pics of the LT1 engine's components and controls.

demonsmokr

I thought about an LS1 car, but i like the lines of the LT1 firebird better. Plus, the hood is just awesome. The 75 formula i had was a bad choice. I got it on impulse because i wanted a good Pontiac to play with. Lots of hidden rust on that thing.

I'm also partial to the LT1 because it's a TRUE 350 still. Plus it's more of a mechanical car rather than electrical with the LS1s. I had an 01 firebird v6, and it just didn't "feel" as nice as the 96 z28 i had a long while back.

I know of the BS issues with the tail lights, head lights, the optispark blues, I'll be checking the motor pretty good. I'm bringing me some 2x6 planks to drive the car up on to give me more room to squeeze underneath.

I haven't pulled a carfax on it, because they're not always very accurate. **** doesn't get reported all the time. Seller claims he's a second owner, he got it from a dealership in 2013 and had only put 18k miles on it. Claims he doesn't drive it much because he has a newer car that gets better mileage. From the pictures, it's very clean, no cracks on the dash, or door panels, leather looks good from the grainy picture, can't see any tears, paint has either been redone or cleared, engine is stock with the exception of a muffler.

I don't plan on doing much to the engine. My focus will be on handling, and waiting to build the motor until it goes out. This will be a semi-daily driver, exhaust and cold air intake will probably be the only thing i do to the motor for awhile besides maintenance.

If she's stock, with all original parts, I'll keep it that way until i have a major failure. Then I'll be riding in the beater car while i build her back up. Also, i plan on doing everything myself. Just can't trust mechanics anymore.

Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming. I'm meeting to guy tomorrow afternoon.

2002 T/A

"I'm also partial to the LT1 because it's a TRUE 350 still." Well, IMHO, the LT1 has been around for a while, an LS1 is all aluminum roller rocker 347 CID! I can't compare both bolt for bolt like others here, but I think an LS1 is a better platform to start and they respond very well to bolt on. You can get 400hp from cam and headers, there is a whole section here on this. I am pushing 9 psi with 440 hp to the tires, that's 500 hp at the crank allowing for 15% drive train loss. I get 415 ft/trq @ 3,500! Not bragging, just sayin the LS1s respond well and will take it and much more with internals! They have better heads and will pull all the way to 6K stock! Just depends on what you want I guess, and can afford, they are more money as stated above.

demonsmokr

Not trashing the LS motors at all. I'm just old school, i don't need a 200mph 8 second car. I just want something fun. Hell, in my mostly stock Z28 i went 175mph on a 5 mile straight. The LT1 has more ***** than I'll need, haha!

demonsmokr

Seller turned into an *******. Wouldn't budge odd the 6991, wouldn't even budge on the dollar. What a schmuck. Then i found anther in Dallas, but seller claims 89k miles but carfax said last reported 175k. I decided to get a 5 pack of the carfax before i filled up just outside of Houston. Glad i did.

Anyways, I'm still looking. The search feature isn't cooperating with my phone on this site. If anyone has any leads on a 96-02 formula or trans am with the 6 speed, is appreciate it.

Still gonna search here, but i see a ton of ads that are years old. Not sure what's up with that.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

where are you located OP? and how far would you travel for a car?

demonsmokr

I'm in houston. Was willing to travel around 400 miles of the car was good.

But, I'm glad to inform I'm no longer searching for a car. I found a 96 TA, 97k original miles, 1 owner car, for a theft price of 2500$ cash. She's not the best looking, but it is a Trans am, unfortunately not the WS6, but i can get the hood.

The interior, rough is a understatement. Dash pad is completely cracked, cannot be salvaged. Seats are a little beat up, but not bad, still comfy. Carpet is done, it smells like am old car. They left it in the sun, clear coat is peeling all over, someone tried to fix the rear quarter panel with rattle can. There's a little surface rust underneath, but not a big deal to me.

I decided i didn't want a show car. Something "clean and pristine". I wanted something mean and ragged, and that's exactly what i got.

From what i can tell, it's all stock. Still has the original optispark, or so it seems. Original exhaust, air intake, etc etc. But previous owner did chop the muffler off.

Sounds good, drives pretty decent. Needs a bit of small stuff. Tie rods, maybe ball joints, new tires, shocks and struts, brake pads, and new tail lights as the originals are full of water and clear plastic cover is held on my 2" of glue on passenger side.

Overall, I'm satisfied with my purchase. A running, diving project. I'll be posting pictures later, i want to clean her up, tear the carpet out, and get a good game plan of what needs to be done.

Doesn't overheat, no oil leaks, rear end is showing a little seepage, trans looks clean-ish, i think she's a mechanically sound car in need of simple maintenance.

Where should i start? I'd like to get the ac working, everything is there but I'm worried the dash being cracked will make my efforts futile. Maybe something going on underneath with the vents? But i guess having the car being filled with cold air will be better than nothing.

Now I'm looking for good suggestions on where to start my endeavors? Pictures will come very soon. Maybe tomorrow morning. Friday morning at the latest.

demonsmokr

Here she is. More pictures to come as i start working on her. Gonna try to document every before and after projects.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Post up in the LT1 Engine section, you'll get lots of good advice on modding the engine and car there. That's where the LT1 era car guys mostly hang out.

wu6fiend

Dash cracks (particularly in cars that live in the hot Southern U.S. states) are not at all uncommon.

If it was my car, and it was drivable, I would get going on the interior, and make it a liveable space first. Its no fun driving around in a nasty smelling, worn out space. Get a replacement carpet, pull the seats (really simple, just a few bolts), and install it. Consider adding some sound/heat insulation before you do (particularly helpful in the rear cargo area, where a lot of interior noise comes from). If the seats aren't too bad, you are lucky. No replacement foam is available (yet) but you can get used leather covers on eBay or brand new stuff (expensive).

Save up for a new paint job.

I'd like to see more photos of the car. $2500 IMO is a great price. Post pictures of your progress as you personalize/bring the car back to life.

demonsmokr

I understand where your coming from about making it livable. I've been trying to find a replacement pad, but i only find covers. And the pads i do find for sale used, are insanely priced. I'd like to find one that's not too bad and do that padded cover thing i saw in the appearance section.

My current goal is to get it drivable, well rather pass inspection. The brake lights were out, tail light housing was jacked, so i found a pair for super cheap, 70$ for the pair. 93-97 trans am style, no cracks, only one small scuff.

Anyways, current problem is lamp sockets are corroded to all hell. They might be salvageable, but I can't get the lamp base out. It's corroded that bad. Both taillights on driver side, and back up light. Funny thing is, the passenger side was the ones that we're oblown, these came out no problem. I figured i should put fresh ones in the driver side, and all 3 broke trying to take them out. That's after WD40 and contact cleaner.

I've been trying to find replacement, but auto stores nearby don't stock them. Special order only,and the pictures they have available are the wrong ones.

Dammit.

So, current project is the taillights. I cut one brake light and the reverse light off, hoping having them on my bench will be easier. I'm messing with those now. Then, the e-brake won't engage. By that, i mean won't ratchet on the handle. The brakes themselves engage and stop the car, but the handle won't stay up. I haven't removed the console yet, doing that tomorrow when i have daylight. And the horn works sometimes, gotta push it just right. Haven't tackled this yet either, hopefully can get to it tomorrow as well. Hopefully nothing major.

So, need the brake lights fixed, horn fixed, and e-brake so i can get it inspected. Then I'll start on the creature comforts.

Masochist

iTrader: (1)

Seems like a lot of guys have given you solid advice with regards to these cars. I love these cars deep down, even though I've moved onto LS1 and will never go back.

Almost everyone would say you goofed on not getting an LS1. However there are some advantages to LT1's... most notably the fact that they are cheaper to modify. They don't take to mods as well as LS1's do(IE, sharp power gains for small mods) but getting a similar mod list on an LT1 and an LS1, chances are the LT1 owner spent less. Also they sound just amazing, I am really partial to the Borla adj. cat-back w/ LT's and a high-flow cat on an LT1.

You sound like you know what you're doing but I will say this. Changing the spark plugs on these cars is a massive pain so when you do that I recommend replacing it all once you've taken the plunge to get in there: the water pump, serpentine belt, optispark, camshaft seal, plug wires, spark plugs, any pullies... pretty much everything on the front half the engine all at once. A good time for this is could be if you plan to swap long tubes on, then get a tune done to make those plugs last as long as possible. Also, I recommend going with an over the valve cover plug wire kit because the stock routing is just nonsense IMO.


Good luck with this car!

demonsmokr

Great advice bud. I know the LS cars are better, but couldn't find any in my price range. The ones i did find were run down, and beat up much like this one, but twice the price with 75-100k more miles. People selling here in Houston are insane. Another thing, i keep reading the T56's are built better from 93-97 when they were made in America, then went to Mexico when Tremec got the bid. The 98+ T56s use lower quality internals. I figure it was worth it getting an older one. Plus, i like the sharper lines as opposed to the bubble look of the 98+ birds.

However, in fly satisfied with my choice. She's definitely going to turn into something mean. I also like the sound of the LT1 motors better, the LS just sounds too clean.

Just got back from the shop, car has a clean bill of health. Just needs a few hoses because they're dry rotted, and someone put the wrong bolts in the track bar so its kinda loose.

At 100k miles, I'm doing a full tune up. Opti, water pump, belt, pulleys all look good, I'm not doing under drive stuff. Plugs, wires, I'm debating if i should attempt the coil pack swap. I'm thinking the coil pack from the northstar motors will be a good swap, already saw some Olds auroras at junkyard.

I've got a couple issues, but in gonna start a new thread. Don't think many will check this one.

So, the plan is full tune up at 100k. Fluids, filters, the whole 9 yards. I'm not sure if i want long tubes, I've always used shorties on my f bodies because of easier to install, and i like the sound too.

I might be wrong, but i thought shorties were better for top end power, or do i have that backwards?

I'm NOT going to lower it at all. Rather, i want to keep the stock height, but beef up the suspension for auto cross type performance. I love turns, straight lines lost their thrill for me. Plus, my 01 firebird was lowered and v it rode like ****. Handled great, but kinda felt violated from every little bump.

I'll be adding pictures later today once i mess with the wheels.

JD_AMG

Longtubes make more power everywhere, and even more so on the top end.
With proper springs and shocks you can have good ride quality, but you need the right parts. Look into the Koni/Strano setup, you won't find a better setup for handling for the cost or a better riding lowering spring.