2000 WS6 Window
#1
2000 WS6 Window
Im sure this has been beaten to death already...I have a 2000 and had both window motors and regulators replaced last month...and now I just replaced both window switches..The Drivers side works fine, the pass will go up and down when it wants...When it does work, it goes up fast, and down fast as it should...The other times, it wont move at all...its just dead...Im thinking its a bad ground somewhere? Also heard the ecb could be at fault, but wouldn't that cause issues with both windows?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
Welcome to the Firebird!
There are a few gremlins that need to be addressed with it off the bat and the window motors are one. BTW - Your door panel crack is the big one and you'll want to get that relieved ASAP. (The others are not time-critical.)
This thread has a lot of good background information on the window motors: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...l#post19125637
Having problems with "new" motors is common as they are often crappy reman units - even when they are sold as "new." The problem you describe sounds like your passenger door has a reman motor in it with a used thermal resistor. (That is the part that is acting up on you.)
BTW - Your BCM has nothing to do with the windows. The driver's side has an express down module hooked up to it, which is historically very reliable. Other than that, they are controlled by simple circuits.
Replacing the regulators is problematic as people often do that repair in such a way that they do damage to the fragile door panel and or use the wrong type of attaching hardware. You should make sure that the proper rivets - purchased from a GM dealer were used, otherwise long term damage can be done to your door. To avoid these issues, we recommend the "shbox method" for window motor replacement. (You can do a search for that.) It allows the motor to be changed without removing the regulator or impacting its attachment to the door.
Do you know where your parts came from?
Who did your install?
Do you know what parts are used to attach your regulator to the door?
There are a few gremlins that need to be addressed with it off the bat and the window motors are one. BTW - Your door panel crack is the big one and you'll want to get that relieved ASAP. (The others are not time-critical.)
This thread has a lot of good background information on the window motors: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...l#post19125637
Having problems with "new" motors is common as they are often crappy reman units - even when they are sold as "new." The problem you describe sounds like your passenger door has a reman motor in it with a used thermal resistor. (That is the part that is acting up on you.)
BTW - Your BCM has nothing to do with the windows. The driver's side has an express down module hooked up to it, which is historically very reliable. Other than that, they are controlled by simple circuits.
Replacing the regulators is problematic as people often do that repair in such a way that they do damage to the fragile door panel and or use the wrong type of attaching hardware. You should make sure that the proper rivets - purchased from a GM dealer were used, otherwise long term damage can be done to your door. To avoid these issues, we recommend the "shbox method" for window motor replacement. (You can do a search for that.) It allows the motor to be changed without removing the regulator or impacting its attachment to the door.
Do you know where your parts came from?
Who did your install?
Do you know what parts are used to attach your regulator to the door?
#3
The place I bought the car installed them, and was purchased from the Chevy Dealership from what he said...I also had them replace the blinker switch inside the column as it was bad, and they got that from the Dealership for sure as I was there when they delivered the part...Both motors/regulators are new, but it could just be a bad motor I guess...When it does work, it goes up and down fast like its supposed to...when it does not work, its just like its totally dead...no movement, no sound etc...Thanks for the info, response, and the welcome! Have been reading this forum for a while now and have found lots of good into...My local F Body club in Houston has been great in helping as well...
#4
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
The place I bought the car installed them, and was purchased from the Chevy Dealership from what he said...I also had them replace the blinker switch inside the column as it was bad, and they got that from the Dealership for sure as I was there when they delivered the part...Both motors/regulators are new, but it could just be a bad motor I guess...When it does work, it goes up and down fast like its supposed to...when it does not work, its just like its totally dead...no movement, no sound etc...Thanks for the info, response, and the welcome! Have been reading this forum for a while now and have found lots of good into...My local F Body club in Houston has been great in helping as well...
Before you take the car in, I highly recommend taking off the door panels off yourself and taking a look at the regulator mounting. (If you want, you can post pictures here and we can comment.) There should be four rivets holding the regulator to the door. The pin in the middle of the rivet should be steel, but the outer jacket should be aluminum. If its not... take it back and have them replace the rivets with the proper GM part. (We've had some people here have GM dealers ignore the GM procedures and install plain steel/steel rivets in the doors, which is a no-no.) You'll want to make sure you have the right attachment there, so this doesn't happen to you: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html