00WS6nSC

iTrader: (1)

The 880 880-HLV3-M LED doesn't put off too much heat inside the fog light housings? and you said there is enough room inside the housing to spread out the copportunity tail?

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=00WS6nSC;19468756 And you said there is enough room inside the housing to spread out the copportunity tail?[/QUOTE]

The heat sink pieces are OUTSIDE the Fog Light Housing. They are attached to the electrical socket. The LED bulb goes inside the socket hole, everything else is outside where the air is cool, and lots of room.

John

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There is not a fix that I am aware of that doesn't risk setting the car on fire, other than putting incandescent bulbs back in. (You'd need to put in a very large resistor that will create a lot of heat - just like a ton of regular light bulbs. At that point, you'd also be wasting the same amount of power you were using on the old light bulbs...)

I recall you can get away with putting LED's in the third brake light - just not the main lights.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

I was so pleased that I was able to run an Electronic Flasher with the LED's and not have to resort to adding resistors. Adding resistors seems so counterproductive! I'll put the incandescent bulbs back in and see if my cruise control comes back. If it does, I'll give-in and install the resistors

Thanks,
John

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you end up going that route, let us know what you end up finding. The little 1/4 watt resistors that you could find at Radio Shack won't work. I recall that the bulbs were 30+ watts, so that's a pretty hefty unit for each simulated bulb. (I'm not sure what threshold one would need to cross to get the cruise control to play nice...)

It would probably be easier to make your own resistor. Just take an incandescent bulb and socket and then stick it in a soda can. (Out of sight, out-of-mind.) You can then wire it up to the LED. No one will ever know what your "resistor" is made of or that it's even there.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

With regard to LED tail lights causing the cruise control to malfunction. My Cruise Control definitely did not work with 4 LED tail lights. I did some testing and discovered an interesting result.

1) I thought, will the Cruise Control still work if 2 LED's and 2 incandescent bulbs are installed. I replaced an LED on each side with the stock incandescent bulbs. The Cruise Control works!

2) If the Cruise Control works with 2 incandescent bulbs, will it work with only 1 incandescent and 3 LED's. Yes, it does!

3) In the interest of proper science procedure, I swapped the single incandescent with a LED on the other side. The Cruise Control still works!

I also tried each scenario with the running lights on/off and the fog lights on/off. And the Cruise Control still works.

So, it looks like I might only need one 6 ohm resistor across one of the rear running light circuits. Except that I don't have a 6 ohm resistor. But I do have 10, 15, & 20 ohm, 50 watt resistors. First I'm going to try a 10 & a 20 in parallel. The two big resistors will help spread out the heat too. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

John

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This came back up the other day in the Stereo and Electronics forum and one of our Mods there mentioned that some people also get this to work by just replacing the LED'S in the third brake light. So you may want to try that, as well.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

I already installed brighter LED's in the 3rd. brake light. I want LED's in the main brake lights because they come on quicker and brighter than incandescents. I hope the single circuit resistor mod will give me back the cruise control.

John

00WS6nSC

iTrader: (1)

Could it maybe be just the one bulb slot in each of the taillights is causing the cruise not to work? I really want LED taillights as well but trying to find the best way of doing it without all the hear production of resistors and such

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

No, if you look at the schematics for the car (the information is spread across several) there is a voltage comparitor in the cruise control module that senses the draw of the brake circuit, as a whole.

(I assume the module needs to measure enough of a voltage drop on that circuit when the brakes are applied to trigger.)


IMO - These modern conveniences are overrated, just like hydraulic brakes, tubeless tires, windshield wipers, and motor oil under a 60 weight.


I'm sure there is an elegant way to crack open the cruise control module and make a modification there, so it will sense the smaller voltage drop of the LED's in the circuit but I haven't seen anyone attempt that or figure it out yet.

00WS6nSC

iTrader: (1)

Could it maybe be just the one bulb slot in each of the taillights is causing the cruise not to work? I really want LED taillights as well but trying to find the best way of doing it without all the hear production of resistors and such

blue09rocket

where I live and the traffic, and the fact some people have no clue how to drive, I have no use for cruise control, so its no issue to me with my LEDs.

Suaveat69

**** EVO Formance Alfas Maximum Intensity

00WS6nSC

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever find out anything on keeping the cruise control with LEDs? Did you see if the resistors would work and be safe (not too hot)? Thanks!