My girlfriend's 2002 Collector Edition
10-10-2017, 01:20 AM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
My girlfriend's 2002 Collector Edition Hi, I'm new here. Long story short, I come from the Mustang world, but the girlfriend has always wanted a Trans Am, and I must admit I have too. Here is our story:
So, the search began for a 98-02 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am WS6.
We test drove a 2000, but it was a bit of a wreck (paint, interior, etc.) and the guy refused to move on the price. He was pretty interesting. He was really excited about how clean the oil was in his car, and repeatedly pulled the dipstick and wiped it off with his fingers. Any time we would address another issue with the vehicle; be it cosmetic or something not working properly, he would return to the dipstick and point out just how clean the oil was. No problem, he didn’t need her money.
The next car we looked at was a 2002 Collector Edition. The car is in incredible shape. No cracked dash, the seats are in great shape, carpet, etc.
The guy we bought it from bought it approximately a year ago, but had not ever registered it or driven it. He said he just parked it and put some Sta-Bil in there. As such, he was not necessarily aware of any issues aside from a squeak on the passenger side, but based on how clean everything was and the overall condition of the car, she knew it was the one.
Bought the car, brought it home and the boss has been ecstatic.
On the way home the service engine light came on. Codes PO154, PO300, PO135 and PO155. Basically O2 sensor codes, a random misfire code, and a “powertrain” code. Meh.
Further inspection of the “random” misfire (using the Torque app and a Bluetooth scanner) showed that all the cylinders missed occasionally, but number six missed a LOT.
So, here’s what we’ve done so far… There will be more pics to follow:
This was us looking at the car. The big guy is our body who has owned about 2 dozen F-Bodies, and the my Boss made an appearance.
First picture I took of it in our driveway!
Couple engine pics. Sorry it was dark out!
So, first day I had to get to work. On the drive home (in the dark) we noticed the passenger side headlight and fog-light were out, and the pop up headlight rode up on the hood on the driver’s side so it would not open all the way. Pop ups are a huge pain but so cool at the same time.
So, first thing was replacing the passenger bulbs, and then adjusting the driver’s light assembly:
Yay working lights and brights!!
Yay working fog lights too! All the lights need to be aimed, but right now we were looking for function first. Finesse later.
The rain kept interrupting our plans.
Next step was getting the brakes done. I knew there was a brake related noise and we needed to address it. I got the rotors all taped up. I usually do this and paint them black so they don’t get all rusty. In the future we can upgrade to better pads and rotors, for now we needed something on the car.
You can tell it’s been sitting. Look at these weird egg things.
Got the pads out; and just take a look at old to new. Every single pad was pretty much down to the metal. My guess is the guy who sold it to the guy we bought it from, did one serious burnout before selling it. That and it’s possible they were original pads at 125k. They were GONE needless to say.
Here’s the brake fluid that came out. It could still probably take some more flushing, but for now I am sure what we did is better than what was in there. I will be able to do a better job with some speed bleeders in place. They were out of stock and brakes were a huge priority.
While the car was up for the brakes I got under it to see just what kind of exhaust it had, because I knew it was throaty. Turns out it has long tube headers back to straight pipes. No cats, no mufflers, no resonators, just pipe. It does some weird bendy stuff by the axle but I guess that is probably normal on these cars. WOOT!
Next I went ahead and got the fuel filter changed. Figured I couldn’t go wrong with an AC Delco filter, and it probably needed some love:
This is the fuel from the filter. NICE!
Next on the agenda were the spark plugs. I have always heard the old fable of how terribly impossible these plugs are to do. I guess not having EGR and having LT headers made it really easy? I am not sure. The plugs were a breeze, did the first 7 from the top and number 8 from the bottom. The ones that came out were Autolite Iridiums. Well, seven of them were. Number 8 (the one everyone cries about) was a factory AC Delco. NICE! All of the plugs were gapped over 60, besides the AC Delco which was at 40. I put NGK TR5 plugs in and they were all gapped at 40 and I used an untold amount of ant seize. Some pics:
I am not an expert on reading spark plugs, but they all looked about the same. I think it’s probably running well?
None of the wires appeared to be burned through or anything, which is a plus! MSD wires will be going on when they get here with some dielectric grease. Getting the old wires off was not easy, so that should help.
Next on the agenda are the O2 sensors. I ordered Denso sensors because that is apparently all the AC Delco sensors are.
We ordered O2 extensions just in case the new sensors are not long enough for the headers. Someone put in sensors with about 18 feet of cable and it’s all bundled up under the car. No thanks.
I will also be doing an oil change and adding a Fumoto valve on the pan to preserve the threads and make oil changes even easier.
Hopefully all of these little things will clear up the codes and make it so I feel comfortable with her out driving around reliably!
Hoping to have it on the rollers this weekend at a car show to see what it puts down!
Future plans:
Probably keeping it mostly stock because it is the collector’s edition, but we can play that by ear.
Tie rods will probably go soon.
It would not surprise me if the clutch is going to need an overhaul soon. If it does, we may let someone rebuild the T56 and beef it up a bit.
The passenger window motor is on its way out, but I guess that’s a normal issue with these cars so I expect that.
I discovered today that the door key holes are not the same as the ignition, we will need to either re-key them all the same, or at least get door keys for when the remote does not cooperate.
The speakers are pretty much blown. Eventually we will probably just replace them, no crazy system or anything.
I am interested in doing some updating with LED lighting and such, we will see if I can get the Boss on board.
So, that’s where we’re at. Hope you guys like it!
So, the search began for a 98-02 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am WS6.
We test drove a 2000, but it was a bit of a wreck (paint, interior, etc.) and the guy refused to move on the price. He was pretty interesting. He was really excited about how clean the oil was in his car, and repeatedly pulled the dipstick and wiped it off with his fingers. Any time we would address another issue with the vehicle; be it cosmetic or something not working properly, he would return to the dipstick and point out just how clean the oil was. No problem, he didn’t need her money.
The next car we looked at was a 2002 Collector Edition. The car is in incredible shape. No cracked dash, the seats are in great shape, carpet, etc.
The guy we bought it from bought it approximately a year ago, but had not ever registered it or driven it. He said he just parked it and put some Sta-Bil in there. As such, he was not necessarily aware of any issues aside from a squeak on the passenger side, but based on how clean everything was and the overall condition of the car, she knew it was the one.
Bought the car, brought it home and the boss has been ecstatic.
On the way home the service engine light came on. Codes PO154, PO300, PO135 and PO155. Basically O2 sensor codes, a random misfire code, and a “powertrain” code. Meh.
Further inspection of the “random” misfire (using the Torque app and a Bluetooth scanner) showed that all the cylinders missed occasionally, but number six missed a LOT.
So, here’s what we’ve done so far… There will be more pics to follow:
This was us looking at the car. The big guy is our body who has owned about 2 dozen F-Bodies, and the my Boss made an appearance.
First picture I took of it in our driveway!
Couple engine pics. Sorry it was dark out!
So, first day I had to get to work. On the drive home (in the dark) we noticed the passenger side headlight and fog-light were out, and the pop up headlight rode up on the hood on the driver’s side so it would not open all the way. Pop ups are a huge pain but so cool at the same time.
So, first thing was replacing the passenger bulbs, and then adjusting the driver’s light assembly:
Yay working lights and brights!!
Yay working fog lights too! All the lights need to be aimed, but right now we were looking for function first. Finesse later.
The rain kept interrupting our plans.
Next step was getting the brakes done. I knew there was a brake related noise and we needed to address it. I got the rotors all taped up. I usually do this and paint them black so they don’t get all rusty. In the future we can upgrade to better pads and rotors, for now we needed something on the car.
You can tell it’s been sitting. Look at these weird egg things.
Got the pads out; and just take a look at old to new. Every single pad was pretty much down to the metal. My guess is the guy who sold it to the guy we bought it from, did one serious burnout before selling it. That and it’s possible they were original pads at 125k. They were GONE needless to say.
Here’s the brake fluid that came out. It could still probably take some more flushing, but for now I am sure what we did is better than what was in there. I will be able to do a better job with some speed bleeders in place. They were out of stock and brakes were a huge priority.
While the car was up for the brakes I got under it to see just what kind of exhaust it had, because I knew it was throaty. Turns out it has long tube headers back to straight pipes. No cats, no mufflers, no resonators, just pipe. It does some weird bendy stuff by the axle but I guess that is probably normal on these cars. WOOT!
Next I went ahead and got the fuel filter changed. Figured I couldn’t go wrong with an AC Delco filter, and it probably needed some love:
This is the fuel from the filter. NICE!
Next on the agenda were the spark plugs. I have always heard the old fable of how terribly impossible these plugs are to do. I guess not having EGR and having LT headers made it really easy? I am not sure. The plugs were a breeze, did the first 7 from the top and number 8 from the bottom. The ones that came out were Autolite Iridiums. Well, seven of them were. Number 8 (the one everyone cries about) was a factory AC Delco. NICE! All of the plugs were gapped over 60, besides the AC Delco which was at 40. I put NGK TR5 plugs in and they were all gapped at 40 and I used an untold amount of ant seize. Some pics:
I am not an expert on reading spark plugs, but they all looked about the same. I think it’s probably running well?
None of the wires appeared to be burned through or anything, which is a plus! MSD wires will be going on when they get here with some dielectric grease. Getting the old wires off was not easy, so that should help.
Next on the agenda are the O2 sensors. I ordered Denso sensors because that is apparently all the AC Delco sensors are.
We ordered O2 extensions just in case the new sensors are not long enough for the headers. Someone put in sensors with about 18 feet of cable and it’s all bundled up under the car. No thanks.
I will also be doing an oil change and adding a Fumoto valve on the pan to preserve the threads and make oil changes even easier.
Hopefully all of these little things will clear up the codes and make it so I feel comfortable with her out driving around reliably!
Hoping to have it on the rollers this weekend at a car show to see what it puts down!
Future plans:
Probably keeping it mostly stock because it is the collector’s edition, but we can play that by ear.
Tie rods will probably go soon.
It would not surprise me if the clutch is going to need an overhaul soon. If it does, we may let someone rebuild the T56 and beef it up a bit.
The passenger window motor is on its way out, but I guess that’s a normal issue with these cars so I expect that.
I discovered today that the door key holes are not the same as the ignition, we will need to either re-key them all the same, or at least get door keys for when the remote does not cooperate.
The speakers are pretty much blown. Eventually we will probably just replace them, no crazy system or anything.
I am interested in doing some updating with LED lighting and such, we will see if I can get the Boss on board.
So, that’s where we’re at. Hope you guys like it!
The following users liked this post:
13ws6 (02-12-2021)
10-10-2017, 07:07 AM
#2
Welcome to the site and it looks like you found a really clean car!!!
How many miles are on it? Did the seller have the original wheels for you? (They would be worth a ton of money!)
Does the car still have an oiled air filter in it? These car's have a common issue where oil will shed off the filter and contaminate the MAF. (GM says that this can also ruin the O2 sensors.) Anyway; if you have an oiled air filter under that SLP lid, you'd be best off to ditch it, go to paper, and get some MAF cleaner for your MAF sensor.
Did you get the pop-up problem fixed? We have a (long) sticky with fixes to every single issue you could have with them.
You may also want to check out the LMC Truck headlight mod. It's relatively inexpensive, direct fit, and will allow you to put modern bulbs in the car. (Instead of the 1970's sealed beams.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...kit-birds.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html
It's common for people to chicken out on #8 and just leave it in there. That's probably the original plug from the factory. Should be no worry, though. The plugs really do generally last for 100K miles and can chug on for a bit longer.
This is the way the cars are made. The blanks are different, so you cannot key the doors to the ignition. If you go to a dealer, (with your registration, once you have it registered) they can look up your VIN and make you a new door key that will work. (This isn't cheap, but should be less expensive than having a locksmith re-key the locks.) When you have the key made, insist that they "punch" the key and not make it on their grinder. Many dealers will have a punch; some will not. Some will have it in a box "somewhere" and will whine about it - but make them dig it out. You'll get a perfect key with the punch.
This is a common thing for the Monsoon system. If you have the stock speakers, 99.9% chance the sail panel speakers are blown and make everything sound bad. Check out Kee Audio, one of our sponsors here. He can set you up with replacement Bazooka speakers (exact replacements for these are hard to come across) that will fit right in for around $100. After that, the system will sound like it did when it came from the factory. (If everything else is stock.) All the details about this are in our Electrical section.
Please check with us in the Electrical section before you take this on. There are some odd issues that happen when you change some of the bulbs to LED and other bulbs need special types to show correctly through the lenses. (For example, making all the tail lights LED usually causes the cruise control to malfunction.)
Another really important thing you'll want to check is the sticky regarding the interior door panel tracks. If not done already, you'll want to relieve the tension at the staples to stop the cracking that is already happening/happened.
How many miles are on it? Did the seller have the original wheels for you? (They would be worth a ton of money!)
You may also want to check out the LMC Truck headlight mod. It's relatively inexpensive, direct fit, and will allow you to put modern bulbs in the car. (Instead of the 1970's sealed beams.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...kit-birds.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html
Another really important thing you'll want to check is the sticky regarding the interior door panel tracks. If not done already, you'll want to relieve the tension at the staples to stop the cracking that is already happening/happened.
10-10-2017, 10:19 AM
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Does the car still have an oiled air filter in it? These car's have a common issue where oil will shed off the filter and contaminate the MAF. (GM says that this can also ruin the O2 sensors.) Anyway; if you have an oiled air filter under that SLP lid, you'd be best off to ditch it, go to paper, and get some MAF cleaner for your MAF sensor.
Did you get the pop-up problem fixed? We have a (long) sticky with fixes to every single issue you could have with them.
You may also want to check out the LMC Truck headlight mod. It's relatively inexpensive, direct fit, and will allow you to put modern bulbs in the car. (Instead of the 1970's sealed beams.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...kit-birds.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html
You may also want to check out the LMC Truck headlight mod. It's relatively inexpensive, direct fit, and will allow you to put modern bulbs in the car. (Instead of the 1970's sealed beams.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...kit-birds.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ht-option.html
Now that is exactly on the lines of what I was talking about! Thanks! But yes we did get the light situated, after about 4 painstaking hours of adjustment. It's still not perfect but it works. I will probably look into doing the brass gear thing for longevity as well.
It's common for people to chicken out on #8 and just leave it in there. That's probably the original plug from the factory. Should be no worry, though. The plugs really do generally last for 100K miles and can chug on for a bit longer.
This is the way the cars are made. The blanks are different, so you cannot key the doors to the ignition. If you go to a dealer, (with your registration, once you have it registered) they can look up your VIN and make you a new door key that will work. (This isn't cheap, but should be less expensive than having a locksmith re-key the locks.) When you have the key made, insist that they "punch" the key and not make it on their grinder. Many dealers will have a punch; some will not. Some will have it in a box "somewhere" and will whine about it - but make them dig it out. You'll get a perfect key with the punch.
This is a common thing for the Monsoon system. If you have the stock speakers, 99.9% chance the sail panel speakers are blown and make everything sound bad. Check out Kee Audio, one of our sponsors here. He can set you up with replacement Bazooka speakers (exact replacements for these are hard to come across) that will fit right in for around $100. After that, the system will sound like it did when it came from the factory. (If everything else is stock.) All the details about this are in our Electrical section.
Please check with us in the Electrical section before you take this on. There are some odd issues that happen when you change some of the bulbs to LED and other bulbs need special types to show correctly through the lenses. (For example, making all the tail lights LED usually causes the cruise control to malfunction.)
Another really important thing you'll want to check is the sticky regarding the interior door panel tracks. If not done already, you'll want to relieve the tension at the staples to stop the cracking that is already happening/happened.
I made an adjustment on Flickr. See if that fixed it for you.
See above.
I should have some more pics this weekend if we make it to the car show! Excited to see what it puts down.
10-10-2017, 10:44 AM
#6
I know evil when I see it...
Now that is exactly on the lines of what I was talking about! Thanks! But yes we did get the light situated, after about 4 painstaking hours of adjustment. It's still not perfect but it works. I will probably look into doing the brass gear thing for longevity as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ll-w-pics.html
10-10-2017, 10:54 AM
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Do you know the actual weight on the stock wheels? Not able to find it anywhere. I just know they are supposedly super lightweight.
That's what I would recommend. The benefits of an oiled air filter are debatable in the first place, but even if you buy in to all of the touted benefits. (From my personal experience.) The grief they can cause in this engine is not worth a 5hp gain. (There are much better ways to get that, if you need it.)
Metal gears are not a cure-all, nor are they strip-proof! https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ght-doors.html
Here's my thread on the speaker replacement. This makes a night & day difference! (The wire harness work I did was nuts and not necessary. Likewise, you can just screw the new ones in with self-tapping screws and not worry about getting the speed nuts to fit/reuse.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ll-w-pics.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...ll-w-pics.html
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10-10-2017, 08:35 PM
#8
Nice! Then we will try to jump on that. We are both a little broke at the moment but if that's one of those "Once in a lifetime" deals, well, you know. They are on Ebay for bids, but the guy says local pickup only which should eliminate a number of people from bidding.
Do you know the actual weight on the stock wheels? Not able to find it anywhere. I just know they are supposedly super lightweight.
Do you know the actual weight on the stock wheels? Not able to find it anywhere. I just know they are supposedly super lightweight.
^ There were companies making knock-offs when these cars were newer, so look out.
If you post in the Wheels section, the folks there can tell you all about them and know much more than I. (They should also know the exact weight.)
Just checking eBay, it looks like original WS6 wheels, with some bead rash, are still going for $300 - so I wonder if your $600 CETA set is OEM. (If so, it would be a s-t-e-a-l.)
If you go through the last 10 pages of the headlight motor thread in this section, you'll see that many of us are starting to have cold solder joint problems with the headlight module - so that may come up for you at some point. (But that's an easy fix.)
Please speak no more of the "M" word. ...Unless you are putting a LS1 engine in one. We have a special section for that, too!
10-10-2017, 09:50 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Yea, they are really nice. They are light to me and are cast aluminum. The original ones have a "GM" cast into the rim - so look for that. If there's no "GM", they are knock-offs.
^ There were companies making knock-offs when these cars were newer, so look out.
If you post in the Wheels section, the folks there can tell you all about them and know much more than I. (They should also know the exact weight.)
Just checking eBay, it looks like original WS6 wheels, with some bead rash, are still going for $300 - so I wonder if your $600 CETA set is OEM. (If so, it would be a s-t-e-a-l.)
^ There were companies making knock-offs when these cars were newer, so look out.
If you post in the Wheels section, the folks there can tell you all about them and know much more than I. (They should also know the exact weight.)
Just checking eBay, it looks like original WS6 wheels, with some bead rash, are still going for $300 - so I wonder if your $600 CETA set is OEM. (If so, it would be a s-t-e-a-l.)
Searching for "Bulletin Number 04-07-30-013" will give you a ton of good and bad discussion on the topic. That one GM bulletin references over-oiled filters, but I had the full plate of issues with an out-of-the-box K&N filter. ...evil
The new motors have been great. With the Cardone motors I got a few years back, the connector seals sucked and I did have to replace them - so I'm not sure how they are shipping now. After replacing the wire seals in the connectors, things have been tight and I've gotten rid of the corrosion issues that have plagued us.
If you go through the last 10 pages of the headlight motor thread in this section, you'll see that many of us are starting to have cold solder joint problems with the headlight module - so that may come up for you at some point. (But that's an easy fix.)
If you go through the last 10 pages of the headlight motor thread in this section, you'll see that many of us are starting to have cold solder joint problems with the headlight module - so that may come up for you at some point. (But that's an easy fix.)
Please speak no more of the "M" word. ...Unless you are putting a LS1 engine in one. We have a special section for that, too!
Thanks for all the help so far!
10-11-2017, 03:49 PM
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
10-11-2017, 08:14 PM
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I must say, getting the old filter off was a struggle. I ended up crushing it with a giant set of channel-lock pliers so I could twist it. I imagine the long tubes are making it a little snug in there. The Fumoto valve should make oil changes even easier and less messy! I am pretty neat and tidy in the garage so I like that sort of thing.
I am excited to knock those out!
In the morning I aim to get the MSD wires on. I may go ahead and do the air filter, MAF and throttle body cleaning at that time too. Then in the evening the O2 extensions should be here to finish up that job. Definitely excited to see how it runs with a good tune up!
In the coming weeks we will be doing a diff fluid change, trans fluid change, and may look into re-flushing the brakes, flushing the clutch, and coolant and power steering.
From what I've seen people recommend GM brake fluid for the clutch and brakes. Totally necessary or does Valvoline Dot 4 work just as well? Wanting to do this car right, will spend the extra nickel where it's needed.
10-12-2017, 08:53 PM
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Alright next item to address was the Oxygen sensors. I got a pair of Denso units to replace whatever was under the car before. The sensor wires were a little short for the long tubes, but we addressed that with extensions and some zip ties. It’s all good now.
(Sorry for the blurry picture. It looked clear when I took it!)
Next on the list was a set of MSD Super Conductor 8.5 mm wires. These went on fairly easily and they look nice.
When I changed the oil I installed a Fumoto drain valve with a 3/8 nipple. This will make oil changes a bit cleaner and easier.
From this angle the nipple looks like it is touching the collector but there is a fair amount of space between them.
Next up, I got the MAF all cleaned up. I used Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol to get the bulk off, then I used some CRC MAF cleaner for a final spray down. All of the contacts were black to start off, so, huge improvement there.
Next I decided to clean the throttle body. On some vehicles I have owned there has been a tremendous change in throttle response just from doing this. As you can see, it was pretty dirty.
Next up was swapping the KNN filter for a nice new paper one.
We also went ahead and installed some locking lugs, because well, for those who don’t know, the boss lady’s wheels were stolen years ago. Coincidentally that is what led us to meeting one another, but we don’t want it to happen again!
So after all of this, I used the Torque app again to check for misfires. Nearly identical results to what was happening before:
I switched the number 2 and 6 coil pack, but this supposed miss stays at number 6. The injector sounds fine, but I did not undo the rail and start moving injectors around.
Under load (not idle) the miss goes away according to Torque.
On our first test drive, we now get lean codes and a random miss, but the car seems to be running much better. I bet once we drive around a bit after this tune up it will do some sorting out on its own. I will also be getting some more fresh gas for it tomorrow which should help things a bit.
So, that’s where we are for now!
(Sorry for the blurry picture. It looked clear when I took it!)
Next on the list was a set of MSD Super Conductor 8.5 mm wires. These went on fairly easily and they look nice.
When I changed the oil I installed a Fumoto drain valve with a 3/8 nipple. This will make oil changes a bit cleaner and easier.
From this angle the nipple looks like it is touching the collector but there is a fair amount of space between them.
Next up, I got the MAF all cleaned up. I used Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol to get the bulk off, then I used some CRC MAF cleaner for a final spray down. All of the contacts were black to start off, so, huge improvement there.
Next I decided to clean the throttle body. On some vehicles I have owned there has been a tremendous change in throttle response just from doing this. As you can see, it was pretty dirty.
Next up was swapping the KNN filter for a nice new paper one.
We also went ahead and installed some locking lugs, because well, for those who don’t know, the boss lady’s wheels were stolen years ago. Coincidentally that is what led us to meeting one another, but we don’t want it to happen again!
So after all of this, I used the Torque app again to check for misfires. Nearly identical results to what was happening before:
I switched the number 2 and 6 coil pack, but this supposed miss stays at number 6. The injector sounds fine, but I did not undo the rail and start moving injectors around.
Under load (not idle) the miss goes away according to Torque.
On our first test drive, we now get lean codes and a random miss, but the car seems to be running much better. I bet once we drive around a bit after this tune up it will do some sorting out on its own. I will also be getting some more fresh gas for it tomorrow which should help things a bit.
So, that’s where we are for now!
10-13-2017, 07:28 AM
#16
- You did have an oil fouling problem
- The clean MAF should give you a noticeable performance improvement
- You may need to do enough driving for the PCM to re-learn what the proper MAF and TB looks like and adjust the fuel mixtures and set points.
I would go through this procedure and also go for some long drives for the MAF. Then come back, clear codes, and see where you are.
I'm not sure this ^ will address your miss fire, (If it does, it would be a cool hail mary.) but I expect that it might make the lean condition go away.
10-13-2017, 02:45 PM
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Nice job with the MAF. I would think that some driving will help things. With the dirt you described on the MAF and throttle body:
- You did have an oil fouling problem
- The clean MAF should give you a noticeable performance improvement
- You may need to do enough driving for the PCM to re-learn what the proper MAF and TB looks like and adjust the fuel mixtures and set points.
I would go through this procedure and also go for some long drives for the MAF. Then come back, clear codes, and see where you are.
I'm not sure this ^ will address your miss fire, (If it does, it would be a cool hail mary.) but I expect that it might make the lean condition go away.
- You did have an oil fouling problem
- The clean MAF should give you a noticeable performance improvement
- You may need to do enough driving for the PCM to re-learn what the proper MAF and TB looks like and adjust the fuel mixtures and set points.
I would go through this procedure and also go for some long drives for the MAF. Then come back, clear codes, and see where you are.
I'm not sure this ^ will address your miss fire, (If it does, it would be a cool hail mary.) but I expect that it might make the lean condition go away.
Definitely think the reset helped clear everything up. Excited to get it on the rollers in the morning!! (fingers crossed they still do it. Pending weather might ruin the show)
10-14-2017, 05:14 PM
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Well an hour early was still several hours too late to the show to be on the dyno. They only took 7 N/A cars and 7 blown cars. Albeit, the winner of each took a $500 gift card.
While at the show we scored some really good deals. Bought a set of shocks and struts for when the time comes.
On the way there we got another Service Engine Soon light.....great. Now it's throwing lean codes.
I will research these but I am starting to think we may need to get it tuned to be on the safer side of things.
In other news, I took some advice I have seen floating around from you in years past on window motors. Went ahead and ordered a Dorman unit since the passenger side is on its way out. I would rather change it ahead of time.
Looks like the shoebox method is preferred, and should make it easy for quick swaps in the future. Not to mention, lifetime warranty. If we are lucky, they will start making the new design again
Thanks for all the help thus far!
While at the show we scored some really good deals. Bought a set of shocks and struts for when the time comes.
On the way there we got another Service Engine Soon light.....great. Now it's throwing lean codes.
I will research these but I am starting to think we may need to get it tuned to be on the safer side of things.
In other news, I took some advice I have seen floating around from you in years past on window motors. Went ahead and ordered a Dorman unit since the passenger side is on its way out. I would rather change it ahead of time.
Looks like the shoebox method is preferred, and should make it easy for quick swaps in the future. Not to mention, lifetime warranty. If we are lucky, they will start making the new design again
Thanks for all the help thus far!
10-15-2017, 07:19 AM
#20
TECH Enthusiast
I ordered my '02 WS6 brand new way back in the summer of 2001. I've never had a driver's side window problem until about a month ago. I started having trouble getting the window up. Just like the common passenger side problem.
I read all about the new, improved design window motors that were made for about a year. Now, they're not made any more and the replacements are back to the old design. Sooooooo, I decided to check eBay. I scored a pair of the new, improved design from two different sellers. You might want to check eBay to see if you can find the improved motors. Look very carefully at the pictures to be sure that you're getting the improved motors and not the ones that you can pick up at any Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone. Good luck.
I read all about the new, improved design window motors that were made for about a year. Now, they're not made any more and the replacements are back to the old design. Sooooooo, I decided to check eBay. I scored a pair of the new, improved design from two different sellers. You might want to check eBay to see if you can find the improved motors. Look very carefully at the pictures to be sure that you're getting the improved motors and not the ones that you can pick up at any Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone. Good luck.