99 Firebird headlight motor mystery
#1
99 Firebird headlight motor mystery
I got this car a week ago and the driver side headlight motor has a grinding sound when closing. I googled the issue and put in a new metal gear for it, after the install the motor did not work at all. I could raise and lower it manually but no dice on the switch. I even got a new motor but that didn't work either. One thing to note is that one of the previous owners had bypassed the connector altogether and just directly wired the motor with 2 bullet connectors. Could this be an issue with the actuator module and how can I test it? Also what kind of power should I be expecting to see through the door motor wires? I am currently getting 0.05 volts when the headlights turn on
#3
I got this car a week ago and the driver side headlight motor has a grinding sound when closing. I googled the issue and put in a new metal gear for it, after the install the motor did not work at all. I could raise and lower it manually but no dice on the switch. I even got a new motor but that didn't work either. One thing to note is that one of the previous owners had bypassed the connector altogether and just directly wired the motor with 2 bullet connectors. Could this be an issue with the actuator module and how can I test it? Also what kind of power should I be expecting to see through the door motor wires? I am currently getting 0.05 volts when the headlights turn on
The connectors need to be weather proof for starters as that area gets alot of water so they will rust / corrode and FAST if they are not the right connectors. Second, the stock connectors have way more than just 2 wires (presuming there's only two you can see given you mentioned two butt connectors)... we really need to see whats going on, can you take a photo of the wiring coming from the harness? It should be coming from behind the frame assembly that mounts the headlight HOUSING, and between two wedges.. they come in a downward position then move to the motor and headlamp bulbs.
Are your actual bulbs working? Even if the headlight does not physically rise, they should still come on if the switch is on.
#4
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iTrader: (5)
Typically, people have problems with corrosion in the headlight motor connector when unplugging the motor for a gear change.
Did you cut off the connector from your new motor, then?
There is a motor ground and a motor power wire. Those two get 12-14V and reverse polarity when the motor goes up/down.
I'd suggest logging on to Autozone.com and form there, you will have access to all the GM factory wiring schematics for the Firebird. It's a great resource. Since it sounds like your car may have had some non-factory repairs done to it. It may be helpful for you to also invest in the 3 book GM "Factory Service Manual" set for your car. It will show you everything else, the way the car was meant to be. Those manuals are out of print, but they still pop up on eBay.
Did you cut off the connector from your new motor, then?
I'd suggest logging on to Autozone.com and form there, you will have access to all the GM factory wiring schematics for the Firebird. It's a great resource. Since it sounds like your car may have had some non-factory repairs done to it. It may be helpful for you to also invest in the 3 book GM "Factory Service Manual" set for your car. It will show you everything else, the way the car was meant to be. Those manuals are out of print, but they still pop up on eBay.
#5
I'm pretty sure thats a BIG issue.
The connectors need to be weather proof for starters as that area gets alot of water so they will rust / corrode and FAST if they are not the right connectors. Second, the stock connectors have way more than just 2 wires (presuming there's only two you can see given you mentioned two butt connectors)... we really need to see whats going on, can you take a photo of the wiring coming from the harness? It should be coming from behind the frame assembly that mounts the headlight HOUSING, and between two wedges.. they come in a downward position then move to the motor and headlamp bulbs.
Are your actual bulbs working? Even if the headlight does not physically rise, they should still come on if the switch is on.
The connectors need to be weather proof for starters as that area gets alot of water so they will rust / corrode and FAST if they are not the right connectors. Second, the stock connectors have way more than just 2 wires (presuming there's only two you can see given you mentioned two butt connectors)... we really need to see whats going on, can you take a photo of the wiring coming from the harness? It should be coming from behind the frame assembly that mounts the headlight HOUSING, and between two wedges.. they come in a downward position then move to the motor and headlamp bulbs.
Are your actual bulbs working? Even if the headlight does not physically rise, they should still come on if the switch is on.
#6
Typically, people have problems with corrosion in the headlight motor connector when unplugging the motor for a gear change.
Did you cut off the connector from your new motor, then?
There is a motor ground and a motor power wire. Those two get 12-14V and reverse polarity when the motor goes up/down
Did you cut off the connector from your new motor, then?
There is a motor ground and a motor power wire. Those two get 12-14V and reverse polarity when the motor goes up/down
#7
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
The headlight modules to have problems...
The problem that lead to your stripped gear could have burned out the module entirely when you went to the metal gear. (The module stops the circuit when the motor hits the limit. Maybe it wasn't stopping and burned out?)
BTW - I'm not a fan of the metal gears. (I much prefer the new motors where we can replace the inexpensive plastic ones!)
I'd start by checking for voltage from your module. If you don't have any, then you can pop it open and look for a burned out MOSFET transistor. (There are two in the module, one for each side of the car.)
The problem that lead to your stripped gear could have burned out the module entirely when you went to the metal gear. (The module stops the circuit when the motor hits the limit. Maybe it wasn't stopping and burned out?)
BTW - I'm not a fan of the metal gears. (I much prefer the new motors where we can replace the inexpensive plastic ones!)
I'd start by checking for voltage from your module. If you don't have any, then you can pop it open and look for a burned out MOSFET transistor. (There are two in the module, one for each side of the car.)
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#9
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
If you log on to AutoZone.com and go to the Repair section, they have the official GM wiring schematics and you can see the Lighting and Motor schematics, which show the wire colors. We are also having a current conversation in the Headlights sticky (in this section) and some of the schematics are posted there.