Powershifting.
02-21-2012, 10:14 PM
#1
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Powershifting. Ok, so my quarter time was REALLY slow, so I was considering powershifting. Never did it before for fear of breaking something. How much will it really help and what are the odds that I obliterate my clutch?
02-21-2012, 10:17 PM
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Its also referred to as "granny shifting". Its not good makes a god awful noise and bad on clutch and tranny. It will help some. It would be faster if you have a bird or catfish. What was the time?
02-22-2012, 05:56 AM
#4
It takes practice. If you do it right, you can gain a quarter second or so. I used to do it in my WS6 all the time. I would do it in other people's car back then also and be roughly .2-.3 faster than their times.
If done right, you don't tear up anything. The clutch does wear a little faster but that's about it. If not done right though, you can start messing up quite a bit of things. Synchros and clutch are usually the first to go. Then the trans starts letting go. I never had any of those problems.
Just takes practice and lots of hand/feet coordination. FWIW, I don't do it in the goat.
If done right, you don't tear up anything. The clutch does wear a little faster but that's about it. If not done right though, you can start messing up quite a bit of things. Synchros and clutch are usually the first to go. Then the trans starts letting go. I never had any of those problems.
Just takes practice and lots of hand/feet coordination. FWIW, I don't do it in the goat.
02-22-2012, 11:21 AM
#5
Practice and hand/feet coordination. Practice shifting just as fast as you can, and then take lifting off the gas pedal out of the equation. I actually find (atleast in my head) that I move the stick faster just using the clutch.
The only problem you might encounter with a GTO (which I've had) is horrible wheel hop going from 1-2 if its not a good prepped surface with sticky tires....and thats when stuff starts to go wrong.
The only problem you might encounter with a GTO (which I've had) is horrible wheel hop going from 1-2 if its not a good prepped surface with sticky tires....and thats when stuff starts to go wrong.
02-22-2012, 12:16 PM
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You can get well below 14 without power shifting. Being from Delaware you shouldn't have problems with DA either. You need to get your launch down to get the 60' below 2.0 .
That may take tires depending on track conditions. With just quick normal shifts and a 1,000 DA I used to get my bone stock '04 down in the 13.3-13.4 range.
That may take tires depending on track conditions. With just quick normal shifts and a 1,000 DA I used to get my bone stock '04 down in the 13.3-13.4 range.
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02-23-2012, 11:55 AM
#12
With your power its all in the first 60'. Granted power shifting might knock off a 10th or 2 but like previously stated, the wheel hop will probably be horrible and possibly break something. Get a set of drag radials and practice, practice practice. good luck!!
02-23-2012, 12:17 PM
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With street tires inflate to around 24-25# in the rear and I do 40# in the front to minimize rolling resistance. Drive around the water box and then back up close to it and do a little burn out to clean the tires. Doing a full John Force burnout on street tires is counter productive. I used to launch around 4k. The trick, especially with stock type tires, is to get just a little bit of a bog and then give it gas but not enough to make it spin. Track prep will determine that. When you just want to just drop the clutch and mash it it's had to do.
02-23-2012, 01:03 PM
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With street tires inflate to around 24-25# in the rear and I do 40# in the front to minimize rolling resistance. Drive around the water box and then back up close to it and do a little burn out to clean the tires. Doing a full John Force burnout on street tires is counter productive. I used to launch around 4k. The trick, especially with stock type tires, is to get just a little bit of a bog and then give it gas but not enough to make it spin. Track prep will determine that. When you just want to just drop the clutch and mash it it's had to do.
02-24-2012, 06:32 AM
#15
Its all about contact patch. Do a burnout on the street and look at the marks. Narrow marks will mean you are overinflated. Two outer marks will be underinflated. Even mark that is the width of your tires, perfect.
