Pontiac GTO 2004-2006 The Modern Goat

Stereo upgrade project. Opinions?

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Old 04-10-2014, 11:13 PM
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Default Stereo upgrade project. Opinions?

I recently bought my 06 A4 GTO and have been unhappy with the OEM stereo. My GP GXP sounds better than my Goat. So, I put together a Phase 1 list of items I purchased and will be installing in the next couple of weeks. Let me know your thoughts...

Headunit: Kenwood DNX890HD
Front Speakers: Polk DB6501
Rear Quarter: Polk DB691S
Rear Deck: 2 x JL Audio C5-650CW 6.5
Sound deadener: Dynamat Extreme

I plan on wiring the front component speakers into the existing OEM speaker connections (woofer and tweeter) and using dynamat on the rear of the woofer to keep as much sound from escaping out the rear. In my experience, this also helps with door vibrations. I always leave a small slot open to let the woofer breathe out the back. I hope I am correct that the Tweeter and Woofer are powered independent of each other. More on that below...

The rear quarters are 2 way and I want to wire these into the OEM speaker connectors. Dynamat the rear again.

The rear deck speakers are 6.5" woofers and I am going to try the OEM amp on these JLA's. The specs on them seem to fit the stock amp. I am hoping I don't let myself down trying to stick with a low cost OEM integrated sub option for now. I will also Dynamat the rear enclosures.

I plan on using the Kenwood receiver to wire directly into the OEM harness. From my research, I understand that the front and rear quarters are powered by the receiver and only the rear has a monsoon amp, right? If this is right, I should see a good improvement over the OEM setup. My only concern is how the front woofer/tweeter are powered. Independent or some GM version of a high low filter splitting the signal. I should know more once I get in there.

Phase 2 will only come if I can't get the Phase 1 setup to sound decent and that might take another year.

Yes, I will be cutting and I do not plan on going back to stock. I use clamps, solder, and use shrink wrap if there is enough space. Also, I am not a spring chicken anymore, so a super loud system is not my priority. Just want something decent and clean. Phase 2 might get into a mid life crisis/stupid loud system. Not sure...

Thoughts about my Phase 1 plan?
Old 04-13-2014, 09:07 PM
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don't bother with the stock amp, you'll just be disappointed. i did an upgrade for a buddy where we used the stock subs with a small ~75w x 2 amp, and it sounded pretty good. the stock tweeters are in the corners of the dash under the trim.

using the stock wiring isn't the worst idea in the world. the Kenwood isn't going to be pumping out major power, so it'll be fine until you decide to go with an amp for them.

remember that you'll have to wire the head unit to turn on the FM antenna amp. there's a thread on LS1GTO.com on that.

are you going to use a steering wheel adapter?
Old 04-21-2014, 05:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I just don't have the budget this year to go big on the stereo, so just a head unit and speakers. Here is what I discovered:

I reused the OEM wiring. OI pulled the clamps out of the white OEM speaker connectors. I used a razor and cut a line down each plastic channel and they broke free. Then I used the clamps on the Polk Speakers and used a crimp tool to clamp them down. They aren't coming off except by force. I also learned all the speakers are being driven by my head unit. I was nervous because there are three connectors on the OEM unit and only two for the Kenwood. The third must be for the door chimes and DIC info.

The rear quarter panes needed the piece of metal bent back to get my speakers to fit well.

The rear speakers would only come out AFTER removing the seats, quarter panels and rear panel that sits around the brake light cover. That had to come off too. The 6.5 subs don't sound bad inside but not much noise outside which I like.

I made a mistake buying 6.5 Component speakers for the front. I bought a pair of DB651's which have the tweeter in the middle of the speaker. Then I bought a pair of DB1001 tweeters for the stock tweeter in the dash. I might as well keep them all since they are being powered by the head unit. I might change things around on Phase 2.

Summary:
Replace the rear speakers with a 6.5" or 6.75" sub.
Replace the rear quarter with a 2 or 3 way 6.5 or 6.75" speaker. Component if you want to drill your panels.
Replace the front door speaker with a 2 or 3 way 6.5" speaker.
Cut the front OEM tweeters or replace them with an after market tweeter. Reuse the OEM bass filter or buy one. The OEM tweeter is in the front dash under the corner vents.
Head unit was easy. Buy a wiring kit and follow the instructions about using the antenna amp wire. Ground your parking brake wire or buy the $12 ebay unit or follow the rules and splice into your e-brake.
Adjust your EQ settings and then tweak your OEM sub amp. Turn your sub amp all the way down and get the stereo to sounds as clean as you can at its highest volume level, then turn up the bass amp gain until it all matches well. Now you can turn it up to that volume number/db when you feel like banging it out.

My OEM steering wheel controls only worked half the time and did other button commands. Volume turned the HU off, then on, then nothing. Then it would work. So I am scrapping those controls until I take the wheel off to investigate.



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