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So as I am driving home from work last night, clutch pedal has no pressure whatsoever, and I am on the freeway about 20 miles from home... Needless to say, I did make it home without stopping and without using the clutch, checked clutch fluid, and knowing the car is 10 years old and knowing what old brake fluid looks like when its aged, it looked like a green baby poo color, so there is nasty fluid in the reservoir. NOW before jumping in and yanking the tranny and getting all pissy about doing it, I have just a few questions and I know some searching might help but I am new and still learning how to navigate this forum, epitome of the F N G lol. SO!
-Anything specific I can gander at or try to see if I can get the pedal to become pressurized again?
-How difficult is it to bleed the cylinder?
-Any good, descriptive and easy to understand DIY out there for this subject.
-What are some other things that I can get done maintenance wise while I'm doing what I'm doing.
- Can someone point me to an all data (or something to its equivalent) link for transmission removal and slave cylinder replacement as well as clutch and flywheel with torque specs.
It's physically hard but mechanically really straight forward. (I know I've had my trans off 8 times and twice in the last two weeks). Take off exhaust and drive shaft and disconnect clutch line down by trans. Pull center console and take off shifter, drop the trans cross brace and remove 8 bolts around trans.
Get a fbody slave and swap the GTO fitting with the one on the new one. Absolutely get a remote bleeder line. It makes it easy to bleed and allows complete fluid replacement (which should be done regularly). If it's that old you may want to get a new clutch, PP, flywheel and pilot bearing too. It's a bitch getting the trans lined up to stab the input shaft into the pilot bearing.
I use a Harbor Freight rolling tranny jack (a lifesaver). I found that dropping the front jack stands and having the back end up as high as possible allowed the sagged engine to be parallel with the floor and then I could just level the trans on the jack and raise it up to match height and just slide it on. Did it by myself on the garage floor and I'm 65
It's physically hard but mechanically really straight forward. (I know I've had my trans off 8 times and twice in the last two weeks). Take off exhaust and drive shaft and disconnect clutch line down by trans. Pull center console and take off shifter, drop the trans cross brace and remove 8 bolts around trans.
Get a fbody slave and swap the GTO fitting with the one on the new one. Absolutely get a remote bleeder line. It makes it easy to bleed and allows complete fluid replacement (which should be done regularly). If it's that old you may want to get a new clutch, PP, flywheel and pilot bearing too. It's a bitch getting the trans lined up to stab the input shaft into the pilot bearing.
I use a Harbor Freight rolling tranny jack (a lifesaver). I found that dropping the front jack stands and having the back end up as high as possible allowed the sagged engine to be parallel with the floor and then I could just level the trans on the jack and raise it up to match height and just slide it on. Did it by myself on the garage floor and I'm 65
Looks like I am going to be investing in the rolling tranny jack. Thanks man! I got some shopping to do. And some work to get done.. Mechanically speaking doesn't seem too hard to do, time consuming maybe, but definitely something I could get done on my day off or something.
A trick I do is to unbolt the driveshaft yoke from the driveshaft to keep it installed in the trans.
This way, fluid doesn't pour out on you during removal/installation, and you can also use the yoke to turn the trans to line up the splines on the input shaft as you install it.
I would also highly advise you to install a stainless clutch line and a speed bleeder while the trans is out.
The install is like stated above, pretty straight forward but labor intensive. I have done this many of times in the floor of my garage with nothing but a few jack stands and a floor jack. If you need a resource for parts we would love to help you out. Heres a list of links that will help you out.
You can do it. Just get the torque specs for everything (bell housing, trans, drive shaft and slave, etc) and get a remote bleeder line before you start. Ask me how I know it's easy to strip out the slave bolts. :/ If you get that HF rolling trans jack and level the engine (not the car, the nose will be down) to the floor you can just slide the trans on. Have lots of extensions to get to those upper trans bolts too (8 total). You can just disconnect the shifter handle and leave the shifter on.
10-22-2014, 08:50 AM
Slave Cylinder Probz -_- 
