svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I'll just post this up here and let people decide. Now I know this particular one is not a retention issue, my stub splines had a nice fit, but the tolerances do not seem to be good with some. My bearing mating surface may have had some bearing on having my rear end go. The splines were supporting the whole stub. The stresses certainly were compounded in there.

New OEM adjuster and side bearing with stock stub video.


http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/...pshf7gnkep.mp4


Famous after-market stub with new OEM adjuster and side bearing video.


http://vid92.photobucket.com/albums/...psmcc9evqv.mp4

Jontall

The stock stub fits nice and tight. The aftermarket stub doesn't fit at all... Did you tell Chris? Now I see that it's not a Wavetrac issue, but an incorrectly machined stub. Is Gforce going to correct this? You have a digital caliper Jerry, why don't you measure both stubs and post pictures because this stub issue needs to be corrected right away. Then will will try to get Chris in here. If I buy a Wavetrac, I'd like to use my stubs and avoid paying $1000 for (new stubs) something that I already own

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

I do not have them in my possession at this time and am waiting until I do to see what will be done if anything. This isn't the first problem I had with these. They are two piece ones and due to poor design I sheared the bolts holding them together the first time I launched hard with them. I fixed them myself by sanding off the finish that contributed to them getting slop and had them pinned at my expense. Now there's this problem and there's no way I'll run them like that.

I did measure 4 stock stubs that I had and they were all within .001" or so so I have a good benchmark for what they should be.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Chris knows of the issues, I've clarified this before. I've got tons of pics and videos of the issues on all sides, it's other folks too. Jon, it comes down to more than measuring. I'll leave it at that, you have a way of outing the wrong information.

I know you love gathering knowledge and information. You are very helpful to the membership. To be clear here, you will never find the correct info when it comes to diffs. You can ask away and will get many answers, few will be accurate. You know exactly where to go if you want facts or solutions, at least you should by now.

Jontall

Mike, it's senseless for anyone to buy new stubs when they already have aftermarket stubs because it just adds to the overall cost of the rebuild by ~$1000. If the OE stub fits tightly, but the Gforce stub doesn't then we as a community have to make an issue out of it so the problem gets corrected. They are not going to listen to you Mike and it's better if you stay out of it, but they will listen to us as a community and we can get this resolved. Jerry, we need those measurements when your stubs come back so we can approach Gforce with this problem and get it fixed. They are not machining the stubs correctly and it's causing problems/damage.. Your videos prove it.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

It's not senseless, if you want it right, you dump the part. The new part won't be any better; your not gonna get anything fixed and they still won't be right. Hopefully, I'm wrong, for your pockets book sake. I had to sack up and spend the cash because my stubs were no good too. It happens, often.

Jontall

Jerry, Chris replied and is going to come into the thread on the ls1GTO forum:

Gforce1320

6:08 PM (1 hour ago)

to me
I'll have to set out new password up, I haven't bothered since the security reset issue..
Could be those stubs are not machined correctly. The needle bearing surface has to be 1.496 +|- .002 or they won't fit right.
Once I get on there I'm just going to ask him to send his stubs in and we can verify if they are correct. If they are not then we will send him new stubs.
Thank You

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Jon you're jumping the issue ahead of itself. I don't have them in my possession and when I do I was prepared to follow up on it. As it is it's going to be a week or two before I can do anything hence why I didn't contact Chris.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Jon needs to chill

Dyno Junkie

My only complaint with these diffs is the lack of available gears.
I would dearly love a set of 4.3's for our LS3 auto Monaro and at least 4.5's for friends manual LS2 HSV GTO.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The only way it would look better is under my car Looking like it's back to new.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

Mike where did we get our stubs? I got one of the first cryo treated and black anodized sets and haven't had any problems whatsoever. I've made at least 100 passes at the track and can't even count how much street abuse they have seen. We checked them for wear and twist when I got the 3:07 gears and Harrop cover from you 2 years ago and they were in great shape.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Buzz, me or Jerry?

I've got my own Installed. My gforce set didn't last very long, they backed out of the side gears leaving me stranded. I had to ride a flat bed tow home. Luckily I wasn't far from home.

Which stubs are you running?

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

You Mike...unless I got them from that guy that passed away a couple years ago, I don't have any GForce products. They are one piece machined stubs.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

I think maybe it was RX666, (RIP), that I got them from if not you Mike.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

Yup it was RX666, I got my stubs in 2010...

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Oh, ok, didn't know him. Smart move on not using any of his product, I endorse that.

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

The diff arrived at 2:12 this afternoon looking good and I started on it right away. I haven't been happy with my clean up. Besides being a huge mess there is some weird "clay-like" yellow stuff coating some areas. It seems like it's always been there but i can't remember. You can see it in the picture. I'm still working on that.

The diff was a PITA laying on my back even with a jack. I woke up with a stiff, sore back so that didn't help and my wrists are killing me. Those 4 bolts on top holding it are hard to line up and to get a wrench on. My half shafts had to get cleaned up and dust caps siliconed back on. I went back to my stock stubs until I get the bad gForce two-piece stub issue resolved.

That took me 4 hours then when I thought it would fly along I had a problem with the new carbon fiber DSS shaft and the new pinion centering pin. The shaft was a little too long to go on. The locating pin has to line straight up with the hole in the shaft adapter. It just couldn't, maybe only 1/8th" or so too long. I finally chamfered the hole in the adapter quite a bit more so the pin could pivot into it. Then I found the pin or hole wasn't right as even lined up it would not go on. I used sand paper to take the paint off of the pin and filed the end to chamfer that and it helped a little but I still had to use the three bolts to pull them together. I hope when I ever have to take it apart it comes apart.

It's weird with the WaveTrac that with the drive shaft installed I can turn the wheels and the drive shaft doesn't turn but when I turn the shaft the wheels turn.

After about 6 hours, no dinner and it was 8:00 I threw in the towel for today. I have a little more cleaning I want to do and I have to put the exhaust back on. I also will have to take a look at the exhaust and shaft bonding point to make sure it doesn't get too much heat. Get her back on the ground, reprogram the computer for the gears and I should be mobile again.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Pretty clean down there for an old car

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

At 53,400 miles the car has only seen rain twice and that was by accident. It still has the original wipers and fluid.

I finally got everything finished up the next day after a couple of hours of work for a little more cleaning, exhaust and picking up all the tools. That yellow stuff is supposedly a rust preventative that they randomly sprayed on spots under there.

It did not come off easily with WD40 , mineral spirits or a degreaser. I ended up using acetone which took it off fairly well but evaporated so fast off the rag that I had to keep dousing it. I eventually ran out of it and quit. It's great to finally have the car back on the ground again. On my trial run I was pleased that for the first time in a long time I couldn't hear the rear end over the exhaust.