ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

Went out to one of my first AutoX events of this season on my new wheel/tire setup, ended up rubbing horribly into my drivers fender which is cut and slightly rolled on both sides. What's confusing me is that it rubbed previously on my passenger rear, so I moved that tire over to the driver's side to help save it from being destroyed- but now it rubs on the driver's side?? My rear wheel and suspension setup is as follows:

• Lovells 350mm spring with BMR drag bags (@0 PSI)
• Koni yellow shocks at full stiff
• 10mm spring pads
• Whiteline poly rear subframe bushings
• Whiteline poly upper shock bushings
• Hotchkis anti-roll bar at full stiff with poly bushings
• VMR 710 (9.5', ET45 offset)
• Toyo Proxes R888R tires
• Harrop diff cover

I haven't had the rear subframe aligned because there's nowhere around here with the correct tool to do so, but im leaning towards lower control arm bushings in the rear being part of the issue. I know a 50 offset wheel would have been ideal but I've seen in person people with the same wheel setup on a slightly lowered height have it work. Thoughts?

smitty2919

You dismounted tire from rear passenger and remounted it to driver side rear and it still rubs?

Need to show where it is rubbing. With 315/30/18 Hoosiers I can rub when hard cornering even though sitting still I have about 1/2" clearance.

Sounds dumb...but all the tires are the same size right?

It's possible that one event was right hand turn heavy which causes tire to rub on passenger rear. This past event may have been left hand turn heavy which makes the driver rear rub...You have an IRS so the diff/axles/wheels SHOULD be fairly centered. Not like me dealing with an SRA and having to make sure my axle is centered when setting up my Watts link.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

It's right at the very top of the sidewall and always leaves rubber behind on the fender lip. Even after grinding down the lips on both sides, it still leaves a distinct mark from where it was contacting.

Also verified the tires are both the same size.

smitty2919

What size tires are you running on those 9.5" wide wheels?

Simply looking at that, you need more offset to pull the wheels inboard to get away from outer fender rubbing. But, check that you have room to do so.

You can get a jack under one of the rear control arms and jack up the car until the wheel/tire tuck up into the fender. You will see what you have to do after that and where your issue is.

It's possible that normal driving condition you don't have issues. When you push the car hard in corners, it's a different ball game.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

I'm running a 275/35/18 in the rear, Toyo Proxes R888R tires. Is it possible that my subframe could be causing the issue or alignment? I had rubbing issues in the front until I got that aligned about 4 months ago on my new front setup as well.

With my Koni Yellow's on their softest setting and about 400LBs of weight over the driver's side while it's got a jack on the control arm to simulate load on the suspension, here's where it's lined up.


My last alignment stated I have on the driver's side .20° positive toe and passenger side having .21° of positive toe. Both sides have -.8° camber in the rear.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

Verified the castings on the wheels, they are both 45 offset. I'm not sure where to go from here aside from new rear wheels

smitty2919

I can see how you rub...with it on jack stands how much fender to tire clearance do you have?

It's possible with the rear on jack stands you still are not at full jounce condition like you see at autocross/racing. I don't know much you can do.

1) Different offset wheels
2) narrower wheel with same offset
3) roll fenders more (may still rub though)
4) stiffer rear springs and or adjust the compression setting on your shocks stiffer. (doing this may have the car want to oversteer)

What sway bars etc are you running? You need stiffer suspension or tuck the wheels in.

ledzepp3

iTrader: (1)

All that information is in my OP about my suspension setup and anything that could make any difference.

Buzzmanb12

iTrader: (11)

It is weird that it followed the wheel side swap...Make sure the rims are matching sizes regardless of what is stamped on them, measure offset and width.

If the rims match your subframe is moving, control arm bushings/end links are bad or the body is rolling over. You can center the rear subframe with a tape measure to get it really close.

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Might add some camber with bushes. A harrop cover also helps locate the rear a bit better and could help. I've got one in case you want to go that route. Keep in mind those tires run big and their shape doesn't help.

smitty2919

Add more rear spring or fill the air bags to simulate more spring.