05 goat irs
10-24-2017, 12:52 PM
#2
DriveshaftShop and GForce1320 make half shafts, inner and outer stub axles. Pedders and a few others make poly inserts for the crossmember. You can get aftermarket springs, drag bags, dual adjustable shocks, etc. The center pumpkin is pretty tough up to a point. You can get a spool for the pumpkin to do away with the Limited slip diff if you want. Lotsa stuff.
10-27-2017, 12:28 AM
#6
the best way to "beef" up the actual center section is to stick with aussie made gears, find a competent builder, since a great portion of issues with the actual center section are from poor gear setup and poor bearing preload, and then either get a wavetrac or a spool. the stock lsd and spider gears aren't great.
10-27-2017, 04:20 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
There are also Ford 8.8" and 9" IRS conversions.
Aside from parts being expensive and the gear selection being few, the factory unit is much more capable than people give it credit for. The weak parts are the inner axle stubs and the halfshafts. The true benefit of switching to the Ford rear is having an endless supply of cheap parts for a common differential.
Aside from parts being expensive and the gear selection being few, the factory unit is much more capable than people give it credit for. The weak parts are the inner axle stubs and the halfshafts. The true benefit of switching to the Ford rear is having an endless supply of cheap parts for a common differential.
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10-29-2017, 01:48 AM
#8
There are also Ford 8.8" and 9" IRS conversions.
Aside from parts being expensive and the gear selection being few, the factory unit is much more capable than people give it credit for. The weak parts are the inner axle stubs and the halfshafts. The true benefit of switching to the Ford rear is having an endless supply of cheap parts for a common differential.
Aside from parts being expensive and the gear selection being few, the factory unit is much more capable than people give it credit for. The weak parts are the inner axle stubs and the halfshafts. The true benefit of switching to the Ford rear is having an endless supply of cheap parts for a common differential.
i think nine times out of ten, it's a busted inner or outer stub, or a busted half-shaft.
11-03-2017, 02:42 PM
#9
The factory diff has proven itself in applications up to around 1300hp. Many I've put together are in cars making 800-1000 hp.There are very specific parts and build procedures needed to hold high hp cars.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
Last edited by 2QWK4RU 06 GOAT; 11-03-2017 at 02:51 PM.
11-04-2017, 01:00 PM
#10
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Rear-End-...06-GTO_c84.htm
I sell the GForce parts at this link. Get with me for better pricing than what I can put in print. Bob
I sell the GForce parts at this link. Get with me for better pricing than what I can put in print. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
11-04-2017, 09:35 PM
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
The factory diff has proven itself in applications up to around 1300hp. Many I've put together are in cars making 800-1000 hp.There are very specific parts and build procedures needed to hold high hp cars.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
11-04-2017, 09:38 PM
#12
Teching In
Thread Starter
Should have mentioned I am not interested in converting to straight axle. I want to keep irs. I have a 97 trans am for that. I want to make this more of a street/road track car.
11-05-2017, 12:52 AM
#13
Well I am going to be shopping in the future. I just bought a new magnum t56 from tick performance because the one in it was trashed. It is a hci car. New 1 piece driveshaft and twin disk clutch full kit master and slave. I was told the motor is making 600 although I highly doubt that. Maybe 450-500 at the wheels. I'm going to get it dynoed when o get it back up and running. I just want to get the rear done next because I want to procharge it or spray it.
11-06-2017, 11:10 PM
#14
TECH Regular
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The factory diff has proven itself in applications up to around 1300hp. Many I've put together are in cars making 800-1000 hp.There are very specific parts and build procedures needed to hold high hp cars.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
I've seen lots of issues with aftermarket parts, including the ones mentioned in this thread. You have to know where to go and what to buy if you want a reliable diff for this platform. There are lots of crap parts floating around for the GTO.
The stock diff is fairly stout, the problem is many were built wrong from the factory.-It's luck of the draw. Aftermarket ford conversions have nvh and engineering challenges, you don't want one in 99% of applications. There is a nice looking solid axle kit by a vendor here, but that's not IRS.
I've built several hundred of these diffs and am speaking from personal experience.
In the end, there's not much to do unless you are making more power than stock. If you got a bad unit, then a proper build will be what you should look for.
Well put.
11-12-2017, 02:00 AM
#18
I have a cover for sale should you be interested in one. I've been lazy, I may post it up in the classified section.
11-12-2017, 04:31 AM
#19
I have a Harrop cover. It seems to be insurance against a problem I haven't had yet. The problem that I HAVE had is axle twist and CV breakage. I don't think the actual center section is going to break until you start pushing quadruple digit torque numbers.
11-12-2017, 05:52 AM
#20
TECH Enthusiast
It depends what you expect and what you are doing with it. It locates the back half and keeps it in place with much less monkey motion back there. It also acts as a 10 bolt girdle would, but there are no preload studs to help main cap walk like on the solid axle.Then there is the added lube capacity which is nice.
I have a cover for sale should you be interested in one. I've been lazy, I may post it up in the classified section.
I have a cover for sale should you be interested in one. I've been lazy, I may post it up in the classified section.