Did Battery Relocation, overcharging at 15v idle!!!
10-14-2018, 08:21 PM
#1
Did Battery Relocation, overcharging at 15v idle!!! I did a battery relocation to the passenger side trunk area, I used 1 gauge welders wire from battery to engine bay to a junction box.
I ran a 1 gauge wire to the starter solenoid from the junction box.
i ran a 2 gauge wire to the alternator from the same junction box.
Now when i start the car I get an annoying "check alternator" message on my dash and it chimes every so often.
So I go check my battery with engine off, I get around 12v.. looks normal to me
I check again but with car started and I get a whopping 15.4v while idling and almost 16v if revved.
Im afraid I might burn something in my ecu or wiring. I drove home, about 3 miles from where I was at and didn't have any drivability issues, Just that annoying "check alternator" chime and message.
Perhaps i used too big of wire on my alternator?
I ran a 1 gauge wire to the starter solenoid from the junction box.
i ran a 2 gauge wire to the alternator from the same junction box.
Now when i start the car I get an annoying "check alternator" message on my dash and it chimes every so often.
So I go check my battery with engine off, I get around 12v.. looks normal to me
I check again but with car started and I get a whopping 15.4v while idling and almost 16v if revved.
Im afraid I might burn something in my ecu or wiring. I drove home, about 3 miles from where I was at and didn't have any drivability issues, Just that annoying "check alternator" chime and message.
Perhaps i used too big of wire on my alternator?
10-15-2018, 08:48 AM
#4
TECH Fanatic
2/0 AWG wire is recommended for the run from the battery to the starter. Minimum of 0 AWG. Current will drop over the length of the cable. 20ft of 2 AWG cannot handle the same load as 5ft of 2 AWG. So you have to make up for it with a thicker gauge cable, which is the reason for the recommendation of 2/0 AWG.
You also need to tie the battery's negative terminal to chassis and the engine block to chassis with the same size cabling.
You also need to tie the battery's negative terminal to chassis and the engine block to chassis with the same size cabling.
10-15-2018, 08:53 AM
#5
yeah that’s one thing I forgot to do, should I add more grounds or run a larger ground wire? Also I just realized I forgot to re connect a white wire that goes to positive. I’m guessing it’s the voltage sensor wire which is probably why it says the alternator may be bad. I’ll try re connecting the white wire after work then see if my voltage gets regulated down to a normal 12v to 14v.
10-15-2018, 10:56 AM
#7
Ok will do after I get out of work. Do you think the battery voltage while running will correct itself once the wire is re connected? I’m hope it’s all that itl need. will definitely run a couple more grounds while I’m in there.
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10-16-2018, 04:09 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
It should fix things. Right now, there is no voltage detection to regulate the alternator output.
10-17-2018, 09:26 PM
#10
