Socalgoat

I have a bone stock 05 manual GTO with 34K, i have a budget of $1200 for suspension, what should i change?? Thanks!

13qtr

The strut bushing/bearing is the first to go bad...so start there. I went with the peddars front struts and springs, and all the bushings in the front end. Makes it alot tighter. I used the peddars alignment specs also..

Rich-L79

Yep, front strut bushings and bearings, front radius rod bushings, rear suspension cradle bushings are all required from the git go. There are plenty of others you can do but those are the essential ones. I like poly everywhere but I prefer the Pedders strut top high durometer rubber bushings. They hold up far better than stock but don't transmit vibrations up through the body and steering wheel. Also think about upgrading the engine mounts and the transmission mounts. Hinson interlocked poly engine mounts and a RevShift transmission mount insert are a quick and inexpensive way to upgrade the drivetrain and improve the shifting at the same time. Do NOT use the RevShift engine mounts, they are NOT interlocked. Don't do the tranmission mount upgrade without doing the engine mount upgrade too or you can end up with a cracked tailhousing on the transmission.

First things to do: check the BCM wires and the fuel line where it feeds into the fuel rail. Both can have chaffing issues that can lead to serious problems. The upgrade to a braided stainless steel fuel line costs less than $25 and takes about 10 minutes to do and sure beats having your GTO become a ball of flames. BCM wiring protection is easy and can also be done in about 10 minutes and will cost you about $2 for a short length of thick rubber hose and a few zip ties.

Texasdigger

I did coilovers and radius rod first then other bushings as the parts wore. Coilovers definitely tighten the ride while allowing wider wheels. But my rears shocks were SHOT. Yours may be good. How bad is the ride, does it squat hard or bottom out?

Socalgoat

Thanks everyone i appreciate it. Honestly it feels very stiff on bumpy streets almost like the struts are gone but that can't be in 33k can it?

Texasdigger

It's possible to be shot from age but really when comes to suspension stiff could mean its good. If you dont like stiff maybe stick with normal struts and shocks. Does it bottom out over dips or squat real bad when accelerating? Tread wear can also show some suspension problems. You might be good and spend 1200 elsewhere.

Rich-L79

The stock struts are/were typically gone by 30k-40k miles if not sooner. Even on a low mileage car age would have caught up with them by now. For not a whole lot more than stock replacement struts you can upgrade to Koni adjustable inserts (front) and shocks (rear) which at the softest setting are about like stock and at the stiffest setting are ready for a road course or autocross. Rear springs typically sagged within the first year or two due to how they were shipped from Australia.

As mentioned, coilovers are an option and they range from silly expensive to not that bad but quality varies widely too. Personally, I went with 20mm drop Lovells springs, Koni adjustables, a good alignment and really good tires and bigger sway bars with poly bushings in almost every location. Drives real nice without being harsh.

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Opinions may vary as to what feels better, or wears out sooner, or holds up better. The one thing I believe every GTO owner can agree on is that the front radius rod bushings were woefully inadequate crap from the factory. Hard braking on a brand new vehicle would allow the suspension to flex so much the tires would almost (or actually) rub the inner fenderwells.

ffjosh

Scan Ebay for coil overs. I found some bc for $600

The rest of the money can pretty much get every other bushing under the car

chief455

iTrader: (21)

I'm not finding any suppliers for the stuff suggested...can y'all link bushings etc you suggested? big thanks...

Rich-L79

Best GTO-specific parts supplier there is: http://kollarracingproducts.com/

chief455

iTrader: (21)

nice! Thanks for that!
Any idea where to find the unavailable Monaro tail lights? (red lower / one clear reverse upper)
ls1gto ads are pretty dead.....

Rich-L79

Ebay. Or try: https://jhp.com.au/

Their stock is probably depleted and they are typically the most expensive place to buy from, but they often have stuff that just isn't available eleswhere.

You should also keep an eye on: https://gtog8ta.com/ for just general NOS and reproduction parts.

chief455

iTrader: (21)

Many thanks, let the hunt begin.....

Socalgoat

So what is the verdict. Kybs and eibachs or Megan coilovers?

Rich-L79

Eibachs are garbage. Unless you also buy a kidney belt. Lovells are the best springs that increase the firmness and control without creating a harsh ride. Lovells 20mm drop springs and Koni adjustables are one of the best combos available if you ask me.

Pulse Red

Ive run eibachs and Bilsteins for 12 out of the 16 years I have owned my car (04 Holden Monaro, so basically an 04 GTO), I have had Koni shocks and Kings springs (yuck) and also went Coliovers for a bit but had issues so dumped them and went back to the same Eibach/ Bilstein combo as they are very good. It was a package that was actually developed with custom valving in the shocks and specific spring rates for the 2001-2004 Monaro, so I dont know if that makes a difference to the regular off the shelf stuff. I don't think you can buy this kit any more in Australia. I'm interested at the Lovells comment. Are these the Aussie manufacturer or something different? If the local stuff, hardly anyone touches those here, considered cheap stuff. So very interesting that these are now considered decent!

Socalgoat

I have just installed nolathane radius rod bushings. Haven't had a chance to flog it but I think I may wait until I install the strut bushings. Also I see that BMR has sway bars, has anyone used these?

Socalgoat

Update: So I purchased kybs and eibachs and installed them in the front with new strut bushings. So far I like it, going over some familiar pot holes it seems to handle them better and overall the feel is much more direct which I like. I MAY put Konis much later, it feels like it may need more strut at times but overall it feels good much better than before.

Next step is rear cradle bushings, rear poly sway bar links, kyb, eibach springs and a hotchkis rear sway.

rednari2

iTrader: (1)

Do the Lovells and Konis, radius rod bushings, and Hotchkiss sways and you are good to go. Change the strut mounts too when you replace the front shocks. If this is too far north of 1200, then just do the rear sway bar. If you only have 200 to spend replace, repeat, replace the rear sway bar. Its trash.