Pontiac GTO 2004-2006 The Modern Goat

Shifting to 2nd issues?

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Old 06-24-2008, 09:59 PM
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Default Shifting to 2nd issues?

just picked up the car on saturday (new to me)

babied, so maybe i'm not used to the car

GMM shifter, RPS clutch

shifting into second slowly, intown etc no problems

if i get on it a little bit, she'll grind as it goes into gear??

-I've tried making sure I have the clutch all the way in
-Different ways I hold the shifter
-Called the previous owner and he recommended that maybe i'm not being "firm" enough with the shift. I did notice once tonight, if I was firm, but not really hard on the shift, it'll go into gear, but sounded like it just grinded for a second? (because it was a faster, harder shift?)

It's weird...its probably me not being used to it??? I hope its not the syncros or anything...


but keep in mind I don't have problems with any other gears
Old 06-25-2008, 02:26 PM
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Doubt its an issue with the car. Bob Babied that thing. Get a little more forceful and you should be ok.
Old 06-25-2008, 02:54 PM
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i go to meets with a bunch of GTO guys and have never heard anyone complain about a 1 to 2 gear grind. i would definately keep an eye on it if not call a shop that specializes in t56s and see if there is a problem that can easily be corrected
Old 06-25-2008, 02:59 PM
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Maybe meet up with radkon or sableGTO and have them drive it to see if they have the same problem with it. I'm pretty sure radkon said he has already driven it.
Old 06-25-2008, 03:51 PM
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tried the firmer shift, no luck

Pretty much anything above 2k rpm causes a grind

Called Amber at Six Speeds Inc, she said I should convert the stock slave to an adjustable slave. She said a blocker ring could have gone bad, but like all of you said, Bob was so easy on the car, and I've been even easier on it.

I might try bleeding the clutch, but I don't know why there would all of a sudden be an air pocket in there now??
Old 06-25-2008, 06:52 PM
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Did some more calling, more asking

Hydrualics are probably OK

Likely it is the blocker ring for 2nd gear, and it's not letting me easily go into 2nd. Which means I have to pull apart the trans

BUT I need to talk to Bob (previous owner) and ask him about his clutch. It's an RPS clutch, and I don't know whether he installed it or whether EPP did. He said he had similar issues after the clutch install with 1st AND 2nd...after EPP rebled the clutch, it seemed to fix the problems.

My other car guru guy said that maybe the clutch needs some shimming being the throw out bearing, because maybe its not releasing all the way. Bleeding it at the beginning could have fixed it slightly and now second seems to be the issue.

So does anybody have an RPS clutch, I need some info on possible shimming.

Because I rather shim the clutch than tear apart the trans (I rebuilt my trans over the winter)


help
Old 06-26-2008, 12:36 PM
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I have an RPS clutch in my car too and have the exact same problem. Shifts at low rpms no problem high rpms and you are not able to find a gear. I spoke to someone and they said it POSSIBLY could be the headers boiling the hydraulic fluid. So I am going to buy this braided clutch line.
Old 06-26-2008, 01:25 PM
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99% sure EPP installed the clutch.

Last time I drove the car (fall 07) I didn't notice any issues. Got me stumped.
Old 06-26-2008, 01:26 PM
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i put in motul 600 synthetic, bled it and it cured my probs with a spongy clutch pedal and probs shifting after a run from the fluid boiling. it is better than dot 3 or 4 and its dry boiling point is close to 600 degrees
Old 06-26-2008, 03:42 PM
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radkon - yeah it just started to happen...Bob didn't notice a problem either, but then again, he said he never drove it that much to notice it! haha

Where can I get Motul 600 synthetic?

I don't think I'm having heat issues, as the car has stock exhaust manifolds on it, but the supercharger does make some heat


My WS6 will boil the fluid with the headers on the car...
Old 06-26-2008, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by smokin_powerstroke
I have an RPS clutch in my car too and have the exact same problem. Shifts at low rpms no problem high rpms and you are not able to find a gear. I spoke to someone and they said it POSSIBLY could be the headers boiling the hydraulic fluid. So I am going to buy this braided clutch line.
Save yourself some cash if you want...I found stainless hardlines/braided lines for $90

If you wanted, you could buy some heat resistant material to wrap around the line that is near the header...litterally about 6" is probably all you need

sure beats $240
Old 06-28-2008, 06:18 PM
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Here's at update

this past week I parked the car, because it was starting to give me issues even putting it into 1st gear....made me start to think that the fluid was burnt


so I just flushed out the system with new DOT4 fluid

Started the car, gave me a slight grind into 1st again....****

BUT It wasn't as bad

drove it up to the car wash to clean the underside from the burnt brake fluid...which was BLACK by the way lol

going into 2nd wasn't really an issue anymore. It did grind once going into second at higher RPMS 3k-4k but again, it wasn't AS bad

so the fluid def was part of the issue...I still have the lines on order...but I don't know how much that will improve it.

I spoke with the clutch company (RPS), the owner actually. He said he could have me send in my clutch and give me a "healthy" discount on their new twin disk setup, which has a lot less peddal pressure ---therefore it should fix any disengagement problems

awesome...just don't have the cash for that since its a really $$$ unit


whata ya think?
Old 06-29-2008, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
Here's at update

this past week I parked the car, because it was starting to give me issues even putting it into 1st gear....made me start to think that the fluid was burnt


so I just flushed out the system with new DOT4 fluid

Started the car, gave me a slight grind into 1st again....****

BUT It wasn't as bad

drove it up to the car wash to clean the underside from the burnt brake fluid...which was BLACK by the way lol

going into 2nd wasn't really an issue anymore. It did grind once going into second at higher RPMS 3k-4k but again, it wasn't AS bad

so the fluid def was part of the issue...I still have the lines on order...but I don't know how much that will improve it.

I spoke with the clutch company (RPS), the owner actually. He said he could have me send in my clutch and give me a "healthy" discount on their new twin disk setup, which has a lot less peddal pressure ---therefore it should fix any disengagement problems

awesome...just don't have the cash for that since its a really $$$ unit


whata ya think?

HMMMM wonder how much off he would give on a trade in??
Old 06-29-2008, 10:47 AM
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hey gave me a general idea

but I'm still looking at least $1200
Old 06-29-2008, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
hey gave me a general idea

but I'm still looking at least $1200
I know thats alot of money but for a twin disk its not bad.
Old 06-29-2008, 02:57 PM
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^^ I agree

Just a bad time to get hit up for $1200
Old 06-29-2008, 04:01 PM
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For 1200 you can get a Tex Twin, and now that I know how badass a clutch it is...When this goes, I would pay 2g for the same clutch...I have beat the **** out of this one for 4 track days and 8k miles....1.6 and 1.7 shorts all day long....
Old 06-29-2008, 05:56 PM
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well thats something else i've considered

but this RPS twin is over $2000 new ---must be something to it!
Old 06-29-2008, 06:04 PM
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For now I'd say a quick thing to also do to help would be to change the fluid out in the trans as well. The adjustable master would also be a good idea IMO. Getting all the play out of the pedal will help shifts tremendously.
Old 06-29-2008, 08:04 PM
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An adjustable master cylinder will help. Until you can afford the upgrades do what you can with heat resistant wrap to keep heat out of the fluid.


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