The Green Hell (nordschleife aka the Nurnburgring)
02-08-2011, 03:13 AM
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The Green Hell (nordschleife aka the Nurnburgring) Been working on my car (alot of info on the other ls1 site) and thought I might make a thread on this one.
Ive been planing to go to the Ring in april may time frame so far. If you dont know what the Ring is, its a 14 mile road course here in germany that is actually a public one way road.
So far here what ive either ordered or is already installed to help with this:
80mm throttle body
Koni sa shocks f/R (used)
UMI RR K-member
UMI tunnel brace with loop
UMI Trans Relo Mount
UMI Non adj Upper A arms
UMI Lower A arms poly/roto
UMI Adj PH rod (installed)
UMI Panhard relocation bar
UMI Adj Torque Arm (installed)
UMI Torque arm bolts (installed)
F/P LCA Relocation braket (installed)
BMR hollow sway bars 35/25
Vogtland 1.2" lowring springs (installed)
ls1 to C5 brake bracket
C5 D/S Front Rotors
Ls1 Hawks HPS Pads f&r (rears installed)
revmax 3200 TC Stage 5
B&M Trans cooler kit
Shiftglo trans temp gauge
speedinc Gauge adaptor
upperball joints
Kumho 295/35ZR17 XS
Kumho 275/40ZR17 SPT
SFI Flexplate
ARP flexplate bolts
ARP torque convert bolts
Hidden antenna
Wix Trans filter
Russel stainless steel brake lines
wheel center cap decal
Rondell 58 17" rims (9.5" fronts & 10 rims")
Poly Motor mount bushings
Pics and install will follow and then maybe a vid after i run the track. Cars a DD though so no im not gutting the car anywhere
Ive been planing to go to the Ring in april may time frame so far. If you dont know what the Ring is, its a 14 mile road course here in germany that is actually a public one way road.
So far here what ive either ordered or is already installed to help with this:
80mm throttle body
Koni sa shocks f/R (used)
UMI RR K-member
UMI tunnel brace with loop
UMI Trans Relo Mount
UMI Non adj Upper A arms
UMI Lower A arms poly/roto
UMI Adj PH rod (installed)
UMI Panhard relocation bar
UMI Adj Torque Arm (installed)
UMI Torque arm bolts (installed)
F/P LCA Relocation braket (installed)
BMR hollow sway bars 35/25
Vogtland 1.2" lowring springs (installed)
ls1 to C5 brake bracket
C5 D/S Front Rotors
Ls1 Hawks HPS Pads f&r (rears installed)
revmax 3200 TC Stage 5
B&M Trans cooler kit
Shiftglo trans temp gauge
speedinc Gauge adaptor
upperball joints
Kumho 295/35ZR17 XS
Kumho 275/40ZR17 SPT
SFI Flexplate
ARP flexplate bolts
ARP torque convert bolts
Hidden antenna
Wix Trans filter
Russel stainless steel brake lines
wheel center cap decal
Rondell 58 17" rims (9.5" fronts & 10 rims")
Poly Motor mount bushings
Pics and install will follow and then maybe a vid after i run the track. Cars a DD though so no im not gutting the car anywhere
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 02-11-2011 at 05:00 AM.
02-08-2011, 01:22 PM
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You may also want to get some brake cooling ducts ran for the front, have matching tires front and rear, get a really good alignment, and a lot of seat time in the car before hand...thats a lot of mods. But I'm jealous you're going to the Ring!
02-08-2011, 02:34 PM
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not sizes, but same type of tire. You're showing XS's in the rear and SPT's in the front. It's not good to mix/match tires like that as every tire has different characteristics. Brake grip will be different, sidewall stiffness and subsequent roll over will be different, and most importantly traction will be different. Different sizes are fine, just get the same tyres 
02-08-2011, 03:11 PM
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I would reconsider the hawk HPS pad, it will not stay together at the temps/speeds of the ring. Look at the DTC series pads for something that won't lose friction at 1200*.
Last edited by Brakemotive; 02-08-2011 at 03:25 PM.
02-08-2011, 03:31 PM
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well damn lol looks like ill have to look into another couple of tires. I came across the SPTs new for a good price and the my dad got me the XS almost the same day i bought the SPTs lol. Depending on which comes up, ill get the same wither front of rears in tire type, at least for racing.
As for the pads i already bought those awhile ago for the street. i was looking at the race compond pads.
As for the pads i already bought those awhile ago for the street. i was looking at the race compond pads.
02-08-2011, 09:27 PM
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I don't know anything about Hawk pads, all my experience is on Wilwood and Carbotech, both good. Carbotech pads have great bite but wear rather quickly so you won't get a lot of weekends on them, but they are very consistent
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02-09-2011, 01:07 AM
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Hawks are pretty decent. The HPS are problay not the #1 for RR or Autocross but they do provide some good braking. Ive considerd getting the HP+ from hawks to get a more track orientated pad, but not sure yet.
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 02-09-2011 at 03:38 PM.
02-11-2011, 02:34 AM
#12
I'm buying a new set of rear tires on mine, not track oriented tire but high performance as I still need to drive my car to and from England/Germany. I have hawk pads in the car as well with brembo blank rotors/ATE brake fluid. I'm not looking to do fastest lap 
but just some fun track times.
I'll being going to Italy (EUROTRIP) in April w/ my family but also right after that trip, I'll drive my car to Germany.
but just some fun track times.I'll being going to Italy (EUROTRIP) in April w/ my family but also right after that trip, I'll drive my car to Germany.
02-11-2011, 04:59 AM
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sweet! ive actually been trying to get a bunch of guys that are here stationed in Germany that are on the ls forums and guys that hang out around here to go with me. try and make a criuse out of it too. Got about 10 pople so far that are interested.
02-11-2011, 08:36 AM
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Joshua
None of that stuff you got listed is really going to help you on the ring.
What is going to help you is track time and watching one or two competetent video from a ringer so that you can get the complete memorization of the track down. If you can't name the corners and know the name of the next corner coming up then it will put you at a severe disadvantage. Don't worry or feel bad when a 110 hp Golf Mk3 passes you . It is just a right of passage that comes with the ring. The Nordschleife is a fun track to drive but is very unforgiving and costly if you forget.
When you come back let us know if you got under 10mins for a BTG time.
None of that stuff you got listed is really going to help you on the ring.
What is going to help you is track time and watching one or two competetent video from a ringer so that you can get the complete memorization of the track down. If you can't name the corners and know the name of the next corner coming up then it will put you at a severe disadvantage. Don't worry or feel bad when a 110 hp Golf Mk3 passes you . It is just a right of passage that comes with the ring. The Nordschleife is a fun track to drive but is very unforgiving and costly if you forget.
When you come back let us know if you got under 10mins for a BTG time.
02-11-2011, 10:34 AM
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Joshua
None of that stuff you got listed is really going to help you on the ring.
What is going to help you is track time and watching one or two competetent video from a ringer so that you can get the complete memorization of the track down. If you can't name the corners and know the name of the next corner coming up then it will put you at a severe disadvantage. Don't worry or feel bad when a 110 hp Golf Mk3 passes you . It is just a right of passage that comes with the ring. The Nordschleife is a fun track to drive but is very unforgiving and costly if you forget.
When you come back let us know if you got under 10mins for a BTG time.
None of that stuff you got listed is really going to help you on the ring.
What is going to help you is track time and watching one or two competetent video from a ringer so that you can get the complete memorization of the track down. If you can't name the corners and know the name of the next corner coming up then it will put you at a severe disadvantage. Don't worry or feel bad when a 110 hp Golf Mk3 passes you . It is just a right of passage that comes with the ring. The Nordschleife is a fun track to drive but is very unforgiving and costly if you forget.
When you come back let us know if you got under 10mins for a BTG time.
02-11-2011, 10:55 AM
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Put my rear Koni sa's in today. feels amazing already. Will be doing the fronts when i they get here and when everything else is here too so i only have to go under there once. Gotta wait fot the Kmemeber to get here first. So happy i went with Konis instead. They may be slightly used, but they are WAY better then the stock 100K decarbons.
So full soft should be ok in the rears on the street. what about Spirited road racing?
So full soft should be ok in the rears on the street. what about Spirited road racing?
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 02-11-2011 at 02:33 PM.
02-12-2011, 04:28 AM
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somthing that i came across and was wondering on someone elses thread doing a UMI front suspenstion upgrade... Do i NEED new front wheel hub? or should i? 100K on em with realitivly normal driving for the most part.
02-12-2011, 07:51 AM
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Put my rear Koni sa's in today. feels amazing already. Will be doing the fronts when i they get here and when everything else is here too so i only have to go under there once. Gotta wait fot the Kmemeber to get here first. So happy i went with Konis instead. They may be slightly used, but they are WAY better then the stock 100K decarbons.
So full soft should be ok in the rears on the street. what about Spirited road racing?
So full soft should be ok in the rears on the street. what about Spirited road racing?
Tuning tips from Koni
Tuning Tips
If the car rolls on the rear outside suspension during corner exit, increase rebound damping force at the front inside. The front inside suspension affects the car mostly on corner exit. By adding rebound damping you will loosen the car up on corner exit.
If the car rolls on the front outside during corner entry, increase rebound damping on the rear inside suspension.
By adding rebound damping to the front on both sides equally, it will tighten the car some.
By adding rebound damping to the rear on both sides equally, it will loosen the car up some.
Note that the shock absorbers do not change the amount of weight transfer, only the time it takes to transfer this weight.
Only adjust enough rebound into each shock absorber to eliminate the undesirable characteristic. Adjusting too much rebound may mask a handling problem of another sort and may even be make things worse and dangerous.
Tuning Tips
If the car rolls on the rear outside suspension during corner exit, increase rebound damping force at the front inside. The front inside suspension affects the car mostly on corner exit. By adding rebound damping you will loosen the car up on corner exit.
If the car rolls on the front outside during corner entry, increase rebound damping on the rear inside suspension.
By adding rebound damping to the front on both sides equally, it will tighten the car some.
By adding rebound damping to the rear on both sides equally, it will loosen the car up some.
Note that the shock absorbers do not change the amount of weight transfer, only the time it takes to transfer this weight.
Only adjust enough rebound into each shock absorber to eliminate the undesirable characteristic. Adjusting too much rebound may mask a handling problem of another sort and may even be make things worse and dangerous.
02-12-2011, 07:52 AM
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02-12-2011, 08:44 AM
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#1. Springs/shocks
#2. Wheel hubs. Myself, along with a few other people have sheared wheel hubs right in half while racing, in my case I was on street tires!!!!
#3. Get you a good seat/harness/harness bar
#4. All ball joints, replace bad bushings
#5. It would be good to replace rear wheel seals. Ive had them leak rear end oil onto my rear brakes under racing conditions... not good.
#6. Brake pads. Simple enough... You need something serious but not to serious. It sounds like you wont be making a ***** out lap but when you do get to that point consider a dedicated race pad.
#7. DOT 4 brake fluid
#8. Adjustable rear sway bar
I would try and find someone or some business that can take you for ride-alongs before you get your car out there... make sure you know the track before you get out there, and make sure you are well rested the night before, and eat and drink right the day of. You do not want to be tired or unfocused for such a demanding track.
#2. Wheel hubs. Myself, along with a few other people have sheared wheel hubs right in half while racing, in my case I was on street tires!!!!
#3. Get you a good seat/harness/harness bar
#4. All ball joints, replace bad bushings
#5. It would be good to replace rear wheel seals. Ive had them leak rear end oil onto my rear brakes under racing conditions... not good.
#6. Brake pads. Simple enough... You need something serious but not to serious. It sounds like you wont be making a ***** out lap but when you do get to that point consider a dedicated race pad.
#7. DOT 4 brake fluid
#8. Adjustable rear sway bar
I would try and find someone or some business that can take you for ride-alongs before you get your car out there... make sure you know the track before you get out there, and make sure you are well rested the night before, and eat and drink right the day of. You do not want to be tired or unfocused for such a demanding track.