pharmd

iTrader: (4)

Guys need some advice here from folks more experienced than me. I have a 2002 Camaro SS M6 (white with black roof and black wheels). On our way to the Mid West Musclecar Classic, we happened upon 3 fellow racers and while having some fun on a backroad my engine detonated, developed a upper valvetrain noise, then deteriorated rapidly (we barely made it home). Needless to say I was really disappointed I was finally able to make an event, and I didn't even get to run.

SO I have some major decisions to undertake and I need some input. I will have to build a new motor. I have an LS1 (stock) block and LS2 (stock) block and FAST 102 intake/TB to start with. Im not sure what the LS1 needs, the LS2 was removed for spinning rod bearing #6. Should I rebuild the LS2 budget style with slight over bore, keep the stock crank, get forged rods/pistons, a good cylinder head and custom cam? This combo would probably land around 470-480rwhp (my old LS1 was 456/415rw on a conservative dyno). Or should I spend another 3-5K and build a stroker shortblock, good heads, cam etc. The end price would probably be a 5K difference I feel. Is an accusump pretty much a good insurance policy?

I need to upgrade brakes (stock ls1). I am considering Z06 conversion, I think this is a very cost effective and reasonable option to begin attending PT events with...Due to the cost of everything, what if I had to do fronts now then rears later? Will it cause me problems or should I just bite the bullet and upgrade both now?

Coilovers...I have Koni SA shocks on now with a german spring. At the very least I need to pick a different spring because the car is too low and drags the cutout on stuff). The rear suspension is NOT a coilover type setup, BUT they do make a conversion for this car. For those who have converted another generation Fbody from stock style to a 4 link or other coilover rear setup do you feel it was a major advantage. I have heard the argument that the cost of converting to a coilover doesn't justify the performance benefit on a SRA car. The cost difference here between just upgrading springs (+ sways) vs coilovers (sways), is probably $2500.

Rear end. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears now. If I plan to keep a NA powerplant making between 475-550rwhp/475-500rwtq, should I just jump staight to 9" or is a 12 bolt an option? From what I have seen for a FAB9 housing with aluminum center section, Detroit locker, etc etc I'm looking at close to $4k. The issue here is that it affects wheel choice (as I could get the new rear narrowed and allow me to run a wider rear wheel vs stock), and brake selection (10 bolt c clipped vs 9" not). And detriot locker vs wavetrac vs trutrac?

Other ancillary parts needed (from what research I have done) are: new seats, new steering wheel, new TURN ONE power steering pump, 6 point cage and harnesses, battery relocation kit, and I really need to ditch the single cutout and go with dual low profile cutouts $400 issue.

This car is NOT my daily driver, but I do want it to be something I could get in and go on the power tour with, or drive 1000 miles to an event if I wanted to. I am keeping AC and creature comforts. I want the car to be very capable on AutoX/Roadcourse/speed stop, that is the car's focus, being drivable to cruise-ins etc is also a requirement.

Please help a fella trying to make smart choices to start with. I don't want to just buy a bunch of parts. If the motor hadn't blown my plan was to do the brakes, suspension, seats and hit RTTH and the LSfest. Then try to make most events next year. My conscience can't really take buying all this stuff at once (since its just a hobby), but what parts I buy, I don't want to skimp on, only resulting in me having to buy replacements soon after. I don't have a budget per se, I could spend probably $25-35K and make it REALLY competitive, but it would be alot easier to swallow spending $10K this year, then in a year or so, spend another 5K, then a year later another 5K etc.

Thanks for your responses!

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

Keep it simple is the best route. Just do a basic LS2 build with a mild heads/cam setup (you want midrange power for auto-x/road race). You could probably leave the rear end alone, maybe narrow it for a wider tire, a la GMHTP's STI Killer.


Of course if you want to go real competitive and race in the American Iron Series, or Camaro/Mustang Challenge, your car will be making too much power. They have a strict power/weight guidelines. Just a heads up.

JD_AMG

IMO do NOT go too crazy on power, it certainly won't help you much on a tight track, and is just going to make the car that much more of a handful.

Search. Stock style system (with blank rotors, good pads and fresh fluid) do great honestly. Upgrading the rear brakes is usually asking for trouble (locking rear tires up really easy). Many run a less aggressive pad in the rear even.
What spring rate are you running? You may want to play around with rates if you have the time/money to see what suits you/your setup best. Look for around 500 to 700lbs/in front and 150 to 200lbs/in rear. Keep the konis, if you want a different shock look into Penskies or race bilstiens, don't bother with anything cheaper or certainly not drag shocks (QA1, AFco, Strange, even if they are not labeled as drag shocks), that would be a HUGE step backwards.
Swaybars should be around 35mm front, 22mm (or less, not more) rear.
Do not bother going coilover in the rear, waste of money with no gain and definitely do NOT go with a 4 link setup, the 3 link setup is best for handling.

Keep the stock 10 bolt and upgrade the diff. The 10 bolt is light, and thats what you want, the less unsprung weight the better. And a locker will KILL your handling, thats the last thing you want.

Start small and work your way up, dial in your setup and don't worry about power. Don't throw a bunch of parts on all at once, that will be harder to dial in and you may not know what part changed what aspect of how the car drives. Don't forget tires, for best balance you want to be square (all 4 tires being same size), you can fit 315's on the front and back with little modification.
If there is one vendor you want to talk to its Sam Strano. Most others will set you up with things that may hurt(like poly bushings, or heavy rear ends), or way more than you need.