FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I never had mine slip, even on RComps, I made sure they were tight.

You don't need to change the bolts, if you are worried about it have the washer tack welded.

Steve91T

I did my first Track Nights in America last Thursday. It was really great. So laid back, yet very professional. And being on track in the evening was just awesome.

For this track day, I was excited to go back to the same track (CMP) to see what effect my changes made



I swapped Carbotech rear pads for Autozone rear pads in hopes of eliminating axle hop under braking.



I pulled the rear bump stops off my parts car and installed them on my car. They needed a little help.


I had oil temps of 310+ last time on track. I pieced together an oil cooler for this track day but unfortunately I ordered the wrong oil filter sandwich adapter. So unfortunately the oil cooler didn't make it before my next track day.



I also noticed my lower control arms were actually pointed down with the relation brackets on the lowest setting, so I raised them by one hole. They're now pretty level. Again, hoping to fix my brake hop issue.



Ready to head to the track.


Somewhere in SC I stopped for fuel. Despite SC's low fuel prices, my debit card was still smoking after this stop.

Steve91T

A paint job has got to become my priority....sooooon
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Awesome day and ready for the 1 1/2 hr drive home.



Home, sweet home


Video shot by my buddy of me coming through the kink and through 14.

Here an S2000 learns why YOU NEVER LIFT AT THE KINK!!!!!


And heres a good flying lap at CMP in the evening.


The
The car did absolutely awesome, but as you can see in the last turn of the last video, I still have brake hop issues. I'm now running Autozone rear pads and I can't get even close to locking up a front tire before the rears lock (hop). I have way too much rear brake bias and I need to figure out why before I break something.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

So I've managed to cover up axle hop to an extent by not only minimizing rear bias, but also but slightly slowing the application of braking on select corners. Make sure your engine/trans mounts are poly as well. The only way for me to further decrease rear braking and possibly increase the ramp in rate of braking is to weaken my rear compound. Going to need to temp tape the rear calipers for that though to ensure whatever weakass compound I toss in out back can handle whatever I throw at it.

Steve91T

Something else is going on. I think it has to do with removing ABS. I've never had issues with hop unless I was jammed on the brakes or was less than smooth with a downshift. This is different. I was actually threshold braking by the feel of the axle hop. I would smoothly apply brake until I could feel the axle start to "shimmy". At that point I was at the max grip of the read tires. My downshift had to be absolutely perfect otherwise it would set it off. I have an inside view using a gopro that I'm going to upload today. You'll be able to see what I mean by watching the shifter.

There was one instance where I actually locked the rear tires under braking.

I'm using C5 front brakes with carbotech pads and stock lt1 reads with autozone pads. Never once did I get close to locking a front tire. Ever. The rear end is also dancing around under braking, another indication of too much rear brake.

I used to actually run carbotech ax6 (one step above street) rear pads and never ever had a problem with hop or feeling like I have too much rear bite.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your ABS pump housed the stock proportioning valve and now your rear bias is through the roof. Not sure if that's accurate as I bought my car already race prepped. I too run the C5 brakes.

Steve91T

Steve91T

I finally got started installing my oil cooler today. I decided I'm going to mount the oil cooler in the empty space behind the bumper. I bought some sheet metal and made a shroud for it.













I'm going to cut the plastic radiator plastic to allow the oil cooler air to exit to the radiator. I figure doing this will allow the oil cooler to get fresh air along with supplying the radiator with even more air, even if that extra air is hot, it's still air.

I used a 3" hole saw to cut the bumper foam for the air intakes. When I pull the bumper for paint, I'll open up the existing holes in the bumper beam to a full 3".

Steve91T

It's done!

My first attempt at making lines. Kind of a PITA, but I'm sure next time will be easier. No leaks so I guess I did something right. I had ordered 10' and man I used every inch. So glad I didn't screw up.



So then I ran up to Roush Racing parts and picked up another couple of AN fittings. Holy crap AN fittings are so expensive! Anyway, I got a 90 fitting and it cleared the 02 sensor by a fraction of a millimeter.





As far as the oil cooler goes. I cut the plastics to all the cooler to recess into the plastics.

Steve91T

There's a lot more room between the oil cooler and radiator than it looks.

Anyway, normal driving would be 230-240 degrees. Tonight I took it for a spin and it never got above 200. In traffic it went to 220, but then dropped back down once I got moving again. Can't wait to see how it does on the track in a few weeks.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

What are you using to monitor oil temps?

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

Your cooler airflow exit is a high pressure area and you've just decreased flow through the radiator.

Steve91T

An Autometer oil temp gauge. The sending unit is in an unused port above the oil filter.

Steve91T

Higher pressure than the air coming in from the nose of the car?

What makes you think I've decreased flow through the radiator? I figure it can't be any worse than attaching the oil cooler to the radiator. There's a lot of room between the oil cooler and the radiator, that's just a bad picture.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

That whole shroud feeds high pressure air to the radiator. You've not only opened up a huge airflow leak to the front of the radiator, but also given the oil cooler a very inefficient exhaust. I like your idea for a shrouded inlet, but the cooler is not optimally placed. At best, it's a heats ink right now. I've been thinking about putting mine behind the radiator somewhere and similarly ducting cool air to it.

Steve91T

I guess I didn't think of it as a leak but more like added air, since the front of the car is also high pressure. Kinda thought they would compliment each other. I do agree that a better exit, like a true low pressure area would be best, but it's tough to find a spot. I was thinking about behind the right fog light opening, but I don't like how unprotected it would be.

The good thing is I haven't done anything that I can't reverse. If my water temps are high because of the oil cooler, I can simply tape up the duct openings and the radiator is back to being sealed.

Tomorrow I'm going to take the car on the highway and see how it does at 75 MPH. Last week I took the car on a 90 mile trip down the highway and the oil temps were 235-240.

My little test drive yesterday was just around the block at about 40 or so. The oil temps were considerably cooler, but I know that's not a proper test.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand how your oil is getting to 230+ on the street. On the street, oil temps follow coolant temps. If you do have coolant issues, simply plugging that hole and spacing the oil cooler a couple inches from the shroud should have a positive effect.

Steve91T

I had removed the factory oil cooler. That's my only guess.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

No, without an oil cooler your oil will run coolant temp on the street unless you're rapping it out everywhere you go. RPM is the only thing that heats the oil beyond the coolant temp.

Steve91T

Even without the factory oil cooler that uses engine coolant? That's what I'm talking about.

Yeah I was surprised to see such high oil temps when cruising at 2000 RPM in 6th.

On the track, the oil temps sky rocket immediately but the water temps were pretty good. The most I saw was 230 by the end of the 20 minute session. Most of the time it was on the low 200's.