STANG KILLA SS goes "racin"
#202
i looked into that one too. very good from my research. for now this free app does more than enough for me.
i still feel like a super hero every time i use it. like im some computer wiz/tuner.
SO nice to be able to check the codes the second they pop up at a race somewhere.
i still feel like a super hero every time i use it. like im some computer wiz/tuner.
SO nice to be able to check the codes the second they pop up at a race somewhere.
#204
Well the day has come. They have closed TWS
they had one last open track day on August 20th. i didnt want to go with the 101 temps, but knew i had to go the final time.
showed up at 7am for the drivers meeting. they warned us grip was way down and no one would be setting there new personal bests. and they were right. plus my tires were on the last weekend so i was really down on grip. i could DEFINITELY tell. i did flip the tires for this event to at least have fresh shoulders, but it didnt help.
i was watching some lap record videos on YT and have also noticed i lost a bit of time taking my old camaro line into T1. so i tried the low/faster line on the this last event. didnt go so well. with so little grip, practice time, and ***** to pull it off right, it didnt save me any time. but i stuck to it for most of the 6 sessions.
this beautiful NSX was there. sadly just a poser, never moved, but looked amazing. perfect condition car.
temps were 99-101 all day. i was having to do alot of cool down laps. especially in the afternoon.
a ZL1 1LE also showed up! i didnt think these things were even on the street yet. and for sure didnt think id ever see one in person. he was still working on his 500 break in miles.
cooling off between rounds
some clips from my laps. not the best with the lack of grip, but i was glad to be out there one last time
and the end of the day, they said the corner marshals were melting. so they did two back to back 45 minute sessions, i did them both. well near the end of the second one coming into 3 the car just didnt slow, luckily there is run off there and i was able to dive into there safely. smoke started pouring out of the right front. i decided to back up and stay there as not to ruin everyone elses run with a red flag on the final session ever. you can see this at the end of the vid.
got home and i guess my hawks didnt like all that heat on the last two back to back sessions in the 101* heat. they were toast down to the backing plates. rotors were completely heat cracked from every hole too.
not the way i wanted to end it, but fitting.
im gonna really miss that place, its been my entire life for the last 2 and a half years.....
they had one last open track day on August 20th. i didnt want to go with the 101 temps, but knew i had to go the final time.
showed up at 7am for the drivers meeting. they warned us grip was way down and no one would be setting there new personal bests. and they were right. plus my tires were on the last weekend so i was really down on grip. i could DEFINITELY tell. i did flip the tires for this event to at least have fresh shoulders, but it didnt help.
i was watching some lap record videos on YT and have also noticed i lost a bit of time taking my old camaro line into T1. so i tried the low/faster line on the this last event. didnt go so well. with so little grip, practice time, and ***** to pull it off right, it didnt save me any time. but i stuck to it for most of the 6 sessions.
this beautiful NSX was there. sadly just a poser, never moved, but looked amazing. perfect condition car.
temps were 99-101 all day. i was having to do alot of cool down laps. especially in the afternoon.
a ZL1 1LE also showed up! i didnt think these things were even on the street yet. and for sure didnt think id ever see one in person. he was still working on his 500 break in miles.
cooling off between rounds
some clips from my laps. not the best with the lack of grip, but i was glad to be out there one last time
and the end of the day, they said the corner marshals were melting. so they did two back to back 45 minute sessions, i did them both. well near the end of the second one coming into 3 the car just didnt slow, luckily there is run off there and i was able to dive into there safely. smoke started pouring out of the right front. i decided to back up and stay there as not to ruin everyone elses run with a red flag on the final session ever. you can see this at the end of the vid.
got home and i guess my hawks didnt like all that heat on the last two back to back sessions in the 101* heat. they were toast down to the backing plates. rotors were completely heat cracked from every hole too.
not the way i wanted to end it, but fitting.
im gonna really miss that place, its been my entire life for the last 2 and a half years.....
#206
well ive been taking some time off after TWS closed permanatly to store Hurricane Harvey flood cars
but starting to tinker with the car again. decided to install a quick release race wheel to help aid entry and exit with the fixed seats.
pulled off the airbag first by inserting two allen wrenches in the two holes on the side of the wheel. push in to move the spring pins/rods and it pops right off. amazing how little was holding it in.
couple people said you could just wiggle the wheel off, that was bull. so i bought this little cheap puller and ground it down to fit into the two tiny holes in the pot metal wheel center. it broke imidiatly.
after removing 3 screws for the horn buttons, i realized i could get the sheetmetal center out of the way, and get a real 2/3 jaw puller on it.
worked great and came right off.
picked up NRG 2.5 quick release and hub for the C6 splines.
both the factory spline and NRG stuff was well marked for up/alignment.
hub on
unfortunatly there wasnt enough of a cavity in the hub for the large plug and two air bag plugs. since i like to make everything reversable i stoped and ordered a 1" spacer (1/2" would have worked) to create a larger void for the plugs to stay.
made this adapter with solid wire pins to spade connectors, to adapt the factory plug to the spades on all the NRG hubs
stuck it into the factory connector, note the wire on either side of the connector are different colors! do not match. so you have to really trace them out to make sure your pluging into the right pins.
found a cheap Chinese knock off of a Momo wheel on ebay.
at this point i stoped taking pics. ran into a snag with the wheel/horn button, that kept grounding itself to the hub and either not fitting or later setting the horn off driving me and my neighbors crazy. finally got that sorted 45 minutes later and rest was a breeze.
i took some before and after measurements
stock wheel: 19" from wheel to seat (plus width of tape measure)
"Momo" with NRG hubs, PLUS 1" spacer: 18.25" (plus width of tape measure)
but starting to tinker with the car again. decided to install a quick release race wheel to help aid entry and exit with the fixed seats.
pulled off the airbag first by inserting two allen wrenches in the two holes on the side of the wheel. push in to move the spring pins/rods and it pops right off. amazing how little was holding it in.
couple people said you could just wiggle the wheel off, that was bull. so i bought this little cheap puller and ground it down to fit into the two tiny holes in the pot metal wheel center. it broke imidiatly.
after removing 3 screws for the horn buttons, i realized i could get the sheetmetal center out of the way, and get a real 2/3 jaw puller on it.
worked great and came right off.
picked up NRG 2.5 quick release and hub for the C6 splines.
both the factory spline and NRG stuff was well marked for up/alignment.
hub on
unfortunatly there wasnt enough of a cavity in the hub for the large plug and two air bag plugs. since i like to make everything reversable i stoped and ordered a 1" spacer (1/2" would have worked) to create a larger void for the plugs to stay.
made this adapter with solid wire pins to spade connectors, to adapt the factory plug to the spades on all the NRG hubs
stuck it into the factory connector, note the wire on either side of the connector are different colors! do not match. so you have to really trace them out to make sure your pluging into the right pins.
found a cheap Chinese knock off of a Momo wheel on ebay.
at this point i stoped taking pics. ran into a snag with the wheel/horn button, that kept grounding itself to the hub and either not fitting or later setting the horn off driving me and my neighbors crazy. finally got that sorted 45 minutes later and rest was a breeze.
i took some before and after measurements
stock wheel: 19" from wheel to seat (plus width of tape measure)
"Momo" with NRG hubs, PLUS 1" spacer: 18.25" (plus width of tape measure)
#209
Ahhhh, yes seeing the gauges...a overlook on my part when I went 330mm...But anything worth while looking at for me is on my A pillar. Oil temp/pressure and water temp. Only thing i care about on my OEM cluster is a EWP warning light (which I moved to be able to see due to the smaller wheel).
Side note:
I drove me friends 2000 C5 with a mild heads/cam with quatermaster clutch and on 315 Rivals...ohhh...my...lord that car rips on course. The test and tune for him was all 1st gear and every throttle input was right in the power band. Makes maybe 420rwhp, but compared to my LT1 the handling and putting power down is amazing. No wonder people go to a Vette. They are the "easy button" lol.
Side note:
I drove me friends 2000 C5 with a mild heads/cam with quatermaster clutch and on 315 Rivals...ohhh...my...lord that car rips on course. The test and tune for him was all 1st gear and every throttle input was right in the power band. Makes maybe 420rwhp, but compared to my LT1 the handling and putting power down is amazing. No wonder people go to a Vette. They are the "easy button" lol.
Last edited by smitty2919; 10-30-2017 at 09:36 AM.
#212
spring is here. time to get back at it again.
been tired of the deafin your hearing after 15 minutes loud exhaust. i like loud but this makes you not be able to hear the person talking to you in your face, and thats after the motors off.
stage 1. vibration dampning. most people think dynamat is for sounds. its for vibrations, that cause resonance. the truck floor of the vette is a giant plastic bass drum.
i picked up the Noico mat from amazon.
its slightly thicker than Dynomat, and alot cheaper.
this 18sqft kit was perfect for the vettes trunk area.
i also did the vertical areas behind the seats where it transitions from trunk floor height to floor boards heights. these panels are actually steel unlike the trunk floor.
i did before and after testing. twice using 2 different cell phone apps (im sure there not that accurate as a decibel meter, but all i was after was relative difference)
i did idle, 1500rpm, 2000, 2500, 3000, part thottle under load, and WOT.
i wont post them all but idle was 79 dbs, and load and WOT were both 85 dbs. both before and after the Noico mat. was a total waste of time and the 12 pounds it added to the car. obviously vibes werent part of my problem.
previously i removed the panel below the radiator to let air in from below, as well as from front grill. after testing it wasnt better or worse, but i decided to go back to the way GM intended it. with a bit of an improvement.
with the factory panel gone
with aluminum i made to bridge the gap from the black bar where the factory panel attaches and to the radiator. ie so no air can slip underneith the radiator, all must pass threw it. there was a good 1-2" gap. and air will take the path of least resisance. especially with the rear tilt rad.
and with factory panel added to that. now all air must come threw grill and pass threw rad.
been tired of the deafin your hearing after 15 minutes loud exhaust. i like loud but this makes you not be able to hear the person talking to you in your face, and thats after the motors off.
stage 1. vibration dampning. most people think dynamat is for sounds. its for vibrations, that cause resonance. the truck floor of the vette is a giant plastic bass drum.
i picked up the Noico mat from amazon.
its slightly thicker than Dynomat, and alot cheaper.
this 18sqft kit was perfect for the vettes trunk area.
i also did the vertical areas behind the seats where it transitions from trunk floor height to floor boards heights. these panels are actually steel unlike the trunk floor.
i did before and after testing. twice using 2 different cell phone apps (im sure there not that accurate as a decibel meter, but all i was after was relative difference)
i did idle, 1500rpm, 2000, 2500, 3000, part thottle under load, and WOT.
i wont post them all but idle was 79 dbs, and load and WOT were both 85 dbs. both before and after the Noico mat. was a total waste of time and the 12 pounds it added to the car. obviously vibes werent part of my problem.
previously i removed the panel below the radiator to let air in from below, as well as from front grill. after testing it wasnt better or worse, but i decided to go back to the way GM intended it. with a bit of an improvement.
with the factory panel gone
with aluminum i made to bridge the gap from the black bar where the factory panel attaches and to the radiator. ie so no air can slip underneith the radiator, all must pass threw it. there was a good 1-2" gap. and air will take the path of least resisance. especially with the rear tilt rad.
and with factory panel added to that. now all air must come threw grill and pass threw rad.
#213
decided i wanted to run a staggered setup this year. 315/335s. this meant new wheels. decided to get my first ever set of custom forged wheels. went with forgestar as they were the only remotely affordable company. i waited 3 months for there Black friday sale and then jumped in.
using my old 18x10.5 repros and some spacers. i got the specs worked out as to what i wanted. 18X11 fronts and 18x12 rears, super deep concave, with the appropriate backspacing.
sadly the CF5 design i wanted wasnt available in 13" rears.
hit up 5 Corvette forum vendors that sold them. told them the sizes and specs i wanted. only 1 vendor, "Get Your Wheels", took the time to work with me and my specs, even getting there tech and a Z06 to take some measurements as well. everyone wanted to sell me a safe +38m for the fronts. i knew this would stick out of the fenders. not acceptable. between the two of us measureing we found that up to +50mm would be safe to clear everything. and have no to little rubbing on the brake ducts at full lock. i decided on 45mm. right in between. if i had to do it again. i might do closer to 50mm. but had no way to be sure. so wanted some safetly margin. they fit great with no stick out.
On the rears i went with the GM +59mm from the stock 12" rears. wish i would have gone less. sticking the wheel out closer to the edge of the wheel well. there tucked a bit. easy fix with some 3/16" spacers i already had.
"Get your wheels" also priced match AND beat another vendors lowest price from the bunch. AND send me free black locking lug nuts and tool.
took another 3.5 months to have them machined and done.....
they arrived!!!!
test fits
tons o BBK clearance
a week before mine were done, i found out the forgestars werent hub centric. but that rings were available. luckily these were included. center caps too. sadly the centric rings wouldnt sit far enough inside the barrel. so the wheel wouldnt fully seat and sit flat. had to grind most of the outer bevel lip off the centric ring so the wheel mount surface could sit flat.
one wheel had a chip right at the center cap bore, and looked like there was more black powdercoat under it. like it was repowdercoated once. also that wheel only the center cap wouldnt fit right. it was too tight. again like it had been powdercoated twice. closing the tolerances.
wrapped the wheels in Rival S and got them mounted!
those 335s look SO good from the rear!
using my old 18x10.5 repros and some spacers. i got the specs worked out as to what i wanted. 18X11 fronts and 18x12 rears, super deep concave, with the appropriate backspacing.
sadly the CF5 design i wanted wasnt available in 13" rears.
hit up 5 Corvette forum vendors that sold them. told them the sizes and specs i wanted. only 1 vendor, "Get Your Wheels", took the time to work with me and my specs, even getting there tech and a Z06 to take some measurements as well. everyone wanted to sell me a safe +38m for the fronts. i knew this would stick out of the fenders. not acceptable. between the two of us measureing we found that up to +50mm would be safe to clear everything. and have no to little rubbing on the brake ducts at full lock. i decided on 45mm. right in between. if i had to do it again. i might do closer to 50mm. but had no way to be sure. so wanted some safetly margin. they fit great with no stick out.
On the rears i went with the GM +59mm from the stock 12" rears. wish i would have gone less. sticking the wheel out closer to the edge of the wheel well. there tucked a bit. easy fix with some 3/16" spacers i already had.
"Get your wheels" also priced match AND beat another vendors lowest price from the bunch. AND send me free black locking lug nuts and tool.
took another 3.5 months to have them machined and done.....
they arrived!!!!
test fits
tons o BBK clearance
a week before mine were done, i found out the forgestars werent hub centric. but that rings were available. luckily these were included. center caps too. sadly the centric rings wouldnt sit far enough inside the barrel. so the wheel wouldnt fully seat and sit flat. had to grind most of the outer bevel lip off the centric ring so the wheel mount surface could sit flat.
one wheel had a chip right at the center cap bore, and looked like there was more black powdercoat under it. like it was repowdercoated once. also that wheel only the center cap wouldnt fit right. it was too tight. again like it had been powdercoated twice. closing the tolerances.
wrapped the wheels in Rival S and got them mounted!
those 335s look SO good from the rear!
#214
NCCC Autocross!
unfortunately my cam always bumps me way up in the classes (internal motor work) even though a stock C7 Z06 has 150 hp on me.
loved this C3 with the fender flares, lemans headlights, 6" lip CCW classics, and it sounded goooood.
never seen this color, camera and clouds couldnt pick it up. i looked REAL close in all the cracks. it didnt appear to be a wrap.
ended up have my O2 sensors throw burned out heater codes, half way threw the day, and 1 lean code. in the first vid you can actually hear the motor running rough at mid throttle. i raced anyway.
vid of me testing the limits of the new tires. lol too much.
ended up winning 1st in my class, and 2nd for the overall fastest time of the day. Bested by a great driver in a C7 Z06 on slicks.
my last run of the day was my best. this is it. 48.7
unfortunately my cam always bumps me way up in the classes (internal motor work) even though a stock C7 Z06 has 150 hp on me.
loved this C3 with the fender flares, lemans headlights, 6" lip CCW classics, and it sounded goooood.
never seen this color, camera and clouds couldnt pick it up. i looked REAL close in all the cracks. it didnt appear to be a wrap.
ended up have my O2 sensors throw burned out heater codes, half way threw the day, and 1 lean code. in the first vid you can actually hear the motor running rough at mid throttle. i raced anyway.
vid of me testing the limits of the new tires. lol too much.
ended up winning 1st in my class, and 2nd for the overall fastest time of the day. Bested by a great driver in a C7 Z06 on slicks.
my last run of the day was my best. this is it. 48.7
#218
lol true. but i still own it!
the Rivals like 34 psi hot
at the AX i did try 33.5 and they seemed to like that a touch better for the slower AX on that overcast day. but ill stick to 34 for RR/tracks.
and anyone who talks in cold pressures should immediately be kicked in the nuts repeatedly and shuned.
cold starting pressures vary SO greatly they are immaterial.
i mean a miata, on a 60* day, with a first time driver on a 40 second AX course
vs a Hellcat on a 100* day, with Randy Pobst at Daytona road course are going to have WILDLY different cold pressures to acheive 34 psi hot.
that being said my RR instructors talk about an average of 4psi gained during a session. that was generally pretty close. ignoring the first session of the day.
the Rivals like 34 psi hot
at the AX i did try 33.5 and they seemed to like that a touch better for the slower AX on that overcast day. but ill stick to 34 for RR/tracks.
and anyone who talks in cold pressures should immediately be kicked in the nuts repeatedly and shuned.
cold starting pressures vary SO greatly they are immaterial.
i mean a miata, on a 60* day, with a first time driver on a 40 second AX course
vs a Hellcat on a 100* day, with Randy Pobst at Daytona road course are going to have WILDLY different cold pressures to acheive 34 psi hot.
that being said my RR instructors talk about an average of 4psi gained during a session. that was generally pretty close. ignoring the first session of the day.