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STANG KILLA SS goes "racin"

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Old 03-29-2016, 03:04 PM   #41
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yeah i probly could use more camber but wear has actually been pretty good. i wear out the outer row of tread blocks of course, and about the inner 3 rows. so wear isnt showing needing more camber, but im sure as mentioned it would help turn in and overall grip a bit too. track is mostly in the 70-90mph range on corners which is why i may be able to get away with the less camber.

ironically i dont fight understeer. at least not with the RS3s. my square setup solved that. however with the dunlops a little bit of understeer is back.

ride certainly isnt harsh im sure i could go up on spring rates. but ill probly do ARBs first as its the most noticable.
will run the 35/22 combo. its nearly identical within like 6% of the stock SS ratio F/R. just much larger.
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:53 PM   #42
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You need more than -1.0 camber I can promise you that. Any odds of going up in spring and dampers? About the lightest anyone runs in CMC is a 750/2XX combo. I'm personally on a 900/250 setup right now and debating on going back up again. First I'm going to toss in a 32mm front bar, currently on the 29mm bar from when the car had 1200 fronts. First I need to run it as is, because I bumped up to -2.5 front camber and dropped from 275 rear to 250.
Why run such a small front bar? Class requirements or something?
I figured most run a bigger bar and less spring rate, not the other way around.
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:56 AM   #43
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Awesome thread, pics, and videos! A ton of great information as well.

Thanks for sharing
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:39 AM   #44
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They say you only get out of something what you put into it. So after my local tuner struggling for months with the new motor, i decided to make the 5 hour trip to Victoria to see the famous Texas tuner Patrick Guerra.




before starting i did a little 9am injector swap. went from 26lb to 36lb




Dyno Pull #1

Dyno Pull #2



car put down 426HP and 397TQ on a Mustang Brand dyno. im sure on a normal DynoJet would add 10HP or so more.

(origonal local tuner had it at 415 on a DynoJet but later had to add fuel and timing which probly lowered it to the 405 range)

all in all i probly gained in the 20-25HP range or so, but most importantly its running right now. and efficient.
it will cold start and idle, and even idle with the AC on. and im sure it wont shoot fire when i lift and stink like hell from being so rich like it was before.

cant wait to test on track!
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:10 PM   #45
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Why run such a small front bar? Class requirements or something?
I figured most run a bigger bar and less spring rate, not the other way around.
It's how the car came, PO ran the small bar with the 1200# fronts. Car has a bit of roll with the 900s and was slightly loose at one track and hella loose at another. I dropped rear spring rate to get closer to what everyone else is running and my next step if still loose is to toss that bigger bar on.

OP you didn't actually track that thing with a garbage tune, did you?
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:19 PM   #46
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What pads are on the front?

Car look awesome with those wheels, where did you get them?

I have read the Dunlops don't like heavy cars, dropping the start pressure helps. All tires like different start pressures. If the tire gains more than 4-5lbs during a session keep dropping start pressures until you get there.

Vids look good, nice and smooth.

Rain days teach me a BUNCH, everything that happens in the wet happens in the dry, just at a slower speed.

Great post.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:36 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged111 View Post
You need more than -1.0 camber I can promise you that. Any odds of going up in spring and dampers? About the lightest anyone runs in CMC is a 750/2XX combo. I'm personally on a 900/250 setup right now and debating on going back up again. First I'm going to toss in a 32mm front bar, currently on the 29mm bar from when the car had 1200 fronts. First I need to run it as is, because I bumped up to -2.5 front camber and dropped from 275 rear to 250.
I ran -1.8 camber in mine with a similar setup to what the OP has.

OP, you do need camber, the outside edge of the tire tells the story. The tire is getting overly hot from it and it makes the tire greasy and push.

I ran the "1LE" bars for a good while, then went to the Strano 35/21 I think it was, you could feel the difference. With more bar in it less body roll and that means you loose less camber.

This pic is with Strano bar and springs in front, 23mm rear bar I think, 200lb rear springs, lowered panhard bar and -1.8 camber, tires are BFG R1's. Tire wear was perfect.


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Old 03-30-2016, 07:26 PM   #48
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What pads are on the front?

Car look awesome with those wheels, where did you get them?

I have read the Dunlops don't like heavy cars, dropping the start pressure helps. All tires like different start pressures. If the tire gains more than 4-5lbs during a session keep dropping start pressures until you get there.

Vids look good, nice and smooth.

Rain days teach me a BUNCH, everything that happens in the wet happens in the dry, just at a slower speed.

Great post.
HP+ up front. there about ready for replacement. lots of folks said they had too much initial bite. and I agreed with them when they were new, especially with the 14" rotors, but as they've worn they've lost that a tad. and to be honest I sorta miss it. I have no idea what Carbotech pad is equivalent to the HP+.

wheels are OE Wheels 9.5" +40mm offset. Black Chrome. ive heard since ordering them that they don't carry them anymore or are sold out. haven't looked myself. they were the cheapest I could find at the time.

yeah im anxious to try the dunlops again with the lower pressure.

you mentioned lowered panhard bar, whats the theory on that?

Thanks
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:31 PM   #49
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HP+ up front. there about ready for replacement. lots of folks said they had too much initial bite. and I agreed with them when they were new, especially with the 14" rotors, but as they've worn they've lost that a tad. and to be honest I sorta miss it. I have no idea what Carbotech pad is equivalent to the HP+.

wheels are OE Wheels 9.5" +40mm offset. Black Chrome. ive heard since ordering them that they don't carry them anymore or are sold out. haven't looked myself. they were the cheapest I could find at the time.

yeah im anxious to try the dunlops again with the lower pressure.

Thanks
HP+ is a street pad, you overheated them and deposited pad onto the rotor=vibration.

Put a track pad on the front, Hawk DTC60, Raybestos ST43, Carbotech 12's or the like and see what brakes really are.
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:22 PM   #50
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HP+ is a street pad, you overheated them and deposited pad onto the rotor=vibration.

Put a track pad on the front, Hawk DTC60, Raybestos ST43, Carbotech 12's or the like and see what brakes really are.
+1 here for real pads, you need to commit if you want the car to stop.
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:28 PM   #51
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hmm, not really having any issues stopping. im pretty much going deeper than anyone. never had the car let me down in that department. I mean I can scrape the airdam now with a hard stomp.

however im sure any of those listed about would take it too a whole nother level. are they really needed with my BBK?

I assume pads are like tires, the more bite you get the less they last?
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:29 PM   #52
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No, more at temp bite = less cold bite and more dust. I can get a whole season from a set of ST43, but my car is 3260# post race and only makes 260whp.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:08 PM   #53
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Raybestos ST43 and ST47 last a good long while.

3800lbs running 141 mph braking to 65-70 at NOLA into turn 1 at the 350 marker. Wilwood 13 inch kit with ST43 pads aka Wilwood "H" pads.


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Old 04-08-2016, 09:31 AM   #54
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I agree on the front bar, I have the strano hollow bars on my car. Also, Strano used to make eccentric upper control arm bushings that suck the upper arms inboard, I have them on my WS6 and I'm able to get -2.5 camber and it makes a difference. Also, no mention on your Diff, I went to an Auborn Road Race diff and it also made a huge improvement!
Oh, and $10k Camaro? Hardly, not with all the carnage and upgrades I just read through!
Good luck in 2016!
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:39 AM   #55
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I agree on the front bar, I have the strano hollow bars on my car. Also, Strano used to make eccentric upper control arm bushings that suck the upper arms inboard, I have them on my WS6 and I'm able to get -2.5 camber and it makes a difference. Also, no mention on your Diff, I went to an Auborn Road Race diff and it also made a huge improvement!
Oh, and $10k Camaro? Hardly, not with all the carnage and upgrades I just read through!
Good luck in 2016!
Strand no longer makes the bushings, I asked. UMI makes some upper arms that give you more caster. I've hogged out my upper and lower control arm mounting holes which increases track width and camber without losing caster. It's the only legal way to get your alignment in spec in CMC and it works.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:49 AM   #56
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Well last weekend had an Autocross after the new tune. car ran great. It was a super tight course with a bunch (4-5) hairpins that this big car doesnt like. Ill admit it wasnt as much fun. also could have used the stickier RS3s, would have really helped. but in the end the car did really good. had a bunch of folks impresed to have an old camaro out there doing so well. there always perplexed/amazed.











most of the feild was running in the 45s, with a couple 43s. i had a 43.6 but wasnt just super stoked with the run.
on my last run (3rd in video) i put down my best time.

buuuuuut technically i didnt win. there was this guy (super nice) he was supposed to be in X class but they didnt have enough to fill the class so they left him in RWD. he ran a little over 1/2 a second quicker than me.

Miata floor pan, drivetrain, and suspension. Front engine. square tube Fabbed front and rear frame. Channeled bug body. Coil overs. 10x20x13 slicks. 1700lbs and $1500 to build. looked damn fun.


you can really see how low/small this thing was here


check out the seat position!



my folks came out to watch, and i got to give my mom a ride during the fun runs. i tried to be a little smoother. she didnt scream once

There was also a GTR out there doing exhibition runs. they came up to me and asked if i wanted a ride. so i did


for some reason i wasnt expecting much but to be honest i was impressed. the grip levels were unreal. unfortunatly it was too gravely for launch mode, but it still toke off sounding like the tires were being riped in half. and the areas it would accelerate were so unnatural coming from RWD all my life. and as heavy as it is i was really blown away how nibble it was in the hair pins, it never slide or understeered once. but it was still running 2 seconds slower than me
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:24 AM   #57
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well im a little late getting these posted.

got brake ducts V2.0 done. replaced all the silver flimsy duct with the stiffer black duct, and only used the silver duct on the spindle where i needed the flex. also painted the intakes for a more stealth look.





also installed a new rack and pinion with tie rods. this was the last piece of the puzzle for the cars full mechanical restoration.


did a midnight race alignment when we were done. got toe back to 0, and increased camber from -1.0 to -1.2. also did it this time with me in the car. my weight changed the camber by .25 degrees.


also added a Power steering cooler. it worked awesome. reservoir never boiled and didnt puke out PS fluid all over the engine bay every session.


and then it was race day! rain held off and we had cooler 75-85 temps and overcast.


the harder Dunlops really liked the cooler track temps. i was able to run 37/36 psi and it really liked it. never faded and grip was up. still didnt have the initial bite and turn in of the Hankooks, but i was able to pick the time back up by being smoother and rolling threw mid corner more.


ran good enough to get a sub two minute lap:shock: i couldnt believe it out of the Dunlops. average was in the 2:01 to 2:02 with no traffic. cooler temps really helped these tires.


Bad news was i had a few failures. Front pads had nothing left, 1 torn brake duct, a Torque arm bolt rattled out, broke the welds on the Y-pipe, and something was going wrong with the transmission. twice when shifting (both times 2nd gear i think) it sounded like it was chunking gears, and shook the car violently. but i could never replicate it. it was just random and only happened twice. a couple time i could also hear the clutch disc dragging.




So i made the call to put it back on the trailer after saturday and skip sunday

Here are a few of the clean laps from Saturday
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:57 AM   #58
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Nice looking car man, love the color!
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:00 PM   #59
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Nice build. Thanks for posting.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:54 PM   #60
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Still only -1.2* camber? Damn, I think I'm up to -2.5* camber and 1/8" toe out to make it real responsive. Ran 275 17's last year and going to 285/295 18's this year. My local Autocross is at LEAST 50 sec courses. 30 sec courses like yours are a real bummer with a bigger car like the Fbody lol

I also have strano spring/koni SA shocks with 36mm solid front bar, 22mm solid rear bar and watts link. AMAZING how well these cars can get around a turn when setup properly.

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