suspension setup for racing
#1
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suspension setup for racing
Hey gents I am currently trying to figure out what suspension set up i want to run on my 2002 camaro ss for manly autox. So i wanted to hear about what set up you guys are running for racing?
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#3
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Yes I have been looking into the watts I have run the adjustable panhard bars and even tho they are a nice upgrade I don't feel you ge that much out of them.
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what class do you plan on auto crossing in? and how much do you want to spend?
the link to strano's spring shock sway bar package is where I would start.
on my car I slowly upgraded it but this is the order I would go in if I did it again:
- sway bars: either strano or keep your SS front bar and find a 3rd gen rear bar (most are 21mm or bigger)
- shocks: I am running bilsteins from strano. soon hopefully going with koni yellows (rear on car adjustable)
- strano springs: thoroughly tested and won many autocross championships. I have been looking into the ridetech coilover system lately since it gives you more spring weight options
- relocate torque arm off transmission
- lower control arms and panhard bar: depends on class - poly bushings caused binding for me. I run umi roto joints and rod ends now but this limits me to street mod or prepared classes.
- don't forget brakes.
the link to strano's spring shock sway bar package is where I would start.
on my car I slowly upgraded it but this is the order I would go in if I did it again:
- sway bars: either strano or keep your SS front bar and find a 3rd gen rear bar (most are 21mm or bigger)
- shocks: I am running bilsteins from strano. soon hopefully going with koni yellows (rear on car adjustable)
- strano springs: thoroughly tested and won many autocross championships. I have been looking into the ridetech coilover system lately since it gives you more spring weight options
- relocate torque arm off transmission
- lower control arms and panhard bar: depends on class - poly bushings caused binding for me. I run umi roto joints and rod ends now but this limits me to street mod or prepared classes.
- don't forget brakes.
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I run CAM-C. requirements are full interior, minimum 200 treadwear tires, and everything else is pretty much unlimited. There are restrictions as to splitters and other exterior body parts that cannot exceed past the body. All of my mods are in my sig.
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I have sub frame connectors on the way and thinking about orders the watts. I am mainly doing autocross class either esp or prepared
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#8
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You can buy a relocation bracket for the full length torque arm just to relocate it off the transmission, that's what he was talking about.
You can honestly skip the SFC's(I have them, they did nothing), if you want a real handling difference make sure you invest your money in good shocks like the koni SA's I posted, they will make the biggest difference.
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You can honestly skip the SFC's(I have them, they did nothing), if you want a real handling difference make sure you invest your money in good shocks like the koni SA's I posted, they will make the biggest difference.[/QUOTE]
Yea I am looking at the Strabo springs and the Koni str's
Yea I am looking at the Strabo springs and the Koni str's
#10
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Mine is tunnel mount but it is also different than any available one out there. It works very well. I do NOT get brake hop. I only get wheel hop launching at the drag strip. BUT my car is set up for autocross and road courses NOT the drag strip. my car is very balanced. However, any tunnel mount TQ arm on the market is going to be less than ideal for a handling setup. you can try it if you already have one but you might be changing it.
they make a transmission mount mounted one which keeps the length of the TQ arm near stock (tunnel mounted is shorter).
Also brake hop can be from mismatched rake pads front to rear. You need a less aggressive rear pad. I liked HPS front pads with stock rear pads for autocross only. But once I started doing HPDE road courses I upgraded to HP+ front and HPS rear pads. I still drive it daily on the road and have no issues with cold pads and stopping.
get subframe connectors not for handling improvement but to save your Ttops from leaking (if you have Ttops).
I would prep for ESP. you will be more competitive there. Street mod (SM) is terrible because of all the AWD cars. No one runs prepared around me so you start getting bumped up classes or likely end up running against yourself all the time. also everyone in SM and Prepared classes run slicks. if you are going to stay on street tires run in CAM. pretty much an open street tire class for our cars.
Last edited by 99_ws6; 03-31-2016 at 08:59 AM. Reason: added info on brakes and brake hop
#11
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Thanks for the replies gents
My Tunnel mount TA is a UMI so likely not ideal for road course/auto-x as suspected. I will see how it handles on the street but likely go with a different TA - perhaps the UMI trans mounted TA? I have Kooks TDs, so that may cause some additional interference on any "custom" setups. May eventually have to look into Watts link.
My Tunnel mount TA is a UMI so likely not ideal for road course/auto-x as suspected. I will see how it handles on the street but likely go with a different TA - perhaps the UMI trans mounted TA? I have Kooks TDs, so that may cause some additional interference on any "custom" setups. May eventually have to look into Watts link.
#12
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You can see my setup below, however if I were to do it all over again, I would do it this way in order of importance:
1. Brake Pad Upgrade, new rotors and fresh fluids.
2. Koni Sport shocks
3. Strano Springs
4. Strano Hollow Sway Bars
5. I love my UMI double-roto LCA's and they do a lot to help me put the power down, however I'd be mindful of how this impacts your classification.
1. Brake Pad Upgrade, new rotors and fresh fluids.
2. Koni Sport shocks
3. Strano Springs
4. Strano Hollow Sway Bars
5. I love my UMI double-roto LCA's and they do a lot to help me put the power down, however I'd be mindful of how this impacts your classification.
#13
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Per SCCA rules you would be limited to street mod (SM) or higher (prepared) or CAM (state suspension unrestricted).
Again in CAM you are limited to a street tire with 200 tread wear and a full interior. if the goal is a street driven car built for fun and not to rules. CAM is a pretty good class to be in.