bullettrain

Hello everyone.
I am not new to LS1TECH
I just had to create a new login due to forgetting my last haha.
Here is my current situation and build.
I have a 98 f-body that i intend on doing some road course/drifting/street driving.
I am a big fan of sliding around. now i just want to be able to control the slide fully..
So if anyone has any suggestions suspension wise or anywhere else that will attention. please feel free to shoot it my way. already have a fully built twin turbo iron 5.7 going in the car not sure, on what trans I want to use just yet.
Thank you.

Aaron at SDPC

A lot of great options out there. For the handling stuff BMR, UMI, Strano all offer great products. I assume you will wind up going T56 for the trans if drifting, and road course action is part of the plan. Drifting and road course racing is extremely demanding on parts, so there will definitely be a lot of areas to upgrade. Don't forget to upgrade the factory 10-bolt as well. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with Bullettrain.

bullettrain

Hey thanks much Aaron,
as far as adjustable shocks and such do you have any recommendations on that.
and steering ?

Thank you,
Dustin

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

going to need a huge oil cooler(s) to keep a tt ls alive road racing.

Aaron at SDPC

I would recommend taking a look at a set of the adjustable Koni shocks. Single or Double adjustable if its in the budget. Of course some Strano springs would round out the package well. Upgraded sway bars, and if you're interested in doing something a little different out back BMR has a nice Watts link setup for the fourth gen.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

The 4th gen f-body has barely any steering angle. They make terrible drift cars if that is what you want to do.

bullettrain

79_T/A
You don't think there are aftermarket parts out there to help out with the steering angle.
I'm not going to be professionally doing this. so the steering angle doesn't have to be super substantial ..
Thank you once again Aaron @ SDPC

STANG KILLA SS 2

iTrader: (6)

boost and road racing dont mix.
theres a reason you dont see anyone adding boost to track cars.

JD_AMG

There are not any aftermarket parts to add steering angle, you will have to custom fab parts and possibly use a different steering rack.
Use the search feature and search "drifting". Here is a good build thread for example:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/road-raci...ift-build.html

Also I agree that adding turbos (or and FI for that matter) is a mistake on a road race car that didn't already come that way from the factory. You are adding a lot of weight over the front end on an already front heavy car, the iron block alone is 100lbs extra of unneeded weight, think about two turbos, intercoolers, all the piping, thats going to add up quick. You are adding lots of heat and complexities as well, plus you will not be able to realistically make use of that kind of power even with r-compound tires. You also don't need to do a FI build for a drift car, and really really don't need that kind of power to make a fast track car.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

We have a very wide array of suspension parts catered to different applications of these cars. Give me a call and i can go over some things with you and give you an idea of what you would be looking at to get some parts that will work well for your needs. We are running a sale still on Koni Shocks, and we also are releasing a new handling specific spring. As mentioned we also have a watts link, fully adjustable torque arm, lower control arms, etc. Most of my road course/handling guys like to run our adjustable upper front control arms as well so they can get more aggressive with their alignment specs. You can run more camber and caster with them then the factory adjustments will allow for

smitty2919

I'd skip the Koni/Strano setup and go to the UMI AFCO C/O setup...not much more than the Koni SA/Strano combo.

Add swaybars, seat/harness, wheels/tires.

Skip the TT setup. VERY few go that route. You can look up Mike Dusold's 69 camaro....while wildly custom, it is a TT LS I believe. Does a lot of OPTIMA events that have RR and autocross.

Reliability is key...I'd sell everything you have an go with a crate LS3 or something. Add full exhaust and tune to have good power but great reliability.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

^^^^ If you're not dead set on that iron block twin turbo setup, I would look at building a reliable naturally aspirated combo with an aluminum block.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

FI wouldnt be horrible if done correctly (turbos as far down and back as is safe and feasible, minimal piping, etc). It's feeding of the power that I would think would be the difficult part.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

It's keeping the whole setup cool that's the problem. LS1s don't do a great job as-is with oil temps.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

This is very true. We've seen a lot of forced induction cars come to the track. They can run about 10 minutes, and then they heat soak and the computer shuts them down.

If your goal is to get 1-2 fast laps per session and then quit early, FI will help you do that. If your goal is to get as much seat time as possible, avoid FI.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

With a good NA setup, you'll be limited mostly by your willingness to push your luck.

There have been days where my car was literally the fastest thing on the track (LS1, 350 HP at the flywheel). A stock engine, dialed-in suspension, good tires, and an experienced driver can go much faster in RR than tons of horsepower. Now, if you plan to drag race a bit, cool. Get the gobs of power, because it is an absolute blast. You'll just have to deal with the trade offs if you decide to track the car. Heat and upsetting the balance of the car will be your biggest hurdles, I think.

FWIW, Even with a bone stock LS3, I use an oil cooler on the track. My oil temps hit 220 around 10 minutes in, and slowly creep up to 240 by session close @ 25 minutes. I can't imagine what the temps would be like running forced induction.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

I agree about the TT setup. I know Mike Dusold, and his car is not a normal car. the turbos are mounted down low behind the engine. The car is a tube frame car and has tons and I mean, tons of cooling on it. In fact I've run at least two Optima Events with him this year and he's fast for sure, but he's only out there 3-4 laps at best. There's a difference between going out for your fastest lap like Optima or Time Trials and actual Road Racing. Spend your money on the seat time first. A good 350-400 motor in a 4th gen with good suspension is all you need, in fact you may want to build the car to the specs of the class you want to run in, or at least check out the rules for each class before you build something you can't run.

smitty2919

Dusold's car is pretty neat. It's definitely a car built with a specific task at hand. Not like stuffing TT's+piping+cooling in a factory built 4th gen.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

As others have stated unless you are one hell of a fabricator... or intend to pay someone to resolve cooling issues running a forced induction setup that is not a great choice on a road course car running for 20-30 minutes hard.

While some people have done it.... the intercooler is not blocking the radiator (air to water) and the heat from the turbo/piping is well insulated and pushed out of the engine bay quickly....

Here is a successful turbo setup in a Mustang.... rear mount turbo, air/water intercooler inside the car... lots of aero work. There is a point where aero is waaaaay more important than more power for road racing. Carrying as much speed around the entire course is the goal. He is making under 800hp/600rwtq as I have him as a friend on Facebook. He runs a Quaiffe sequential gearbox and it is holding up for the most part.

http://cdn.speednik.com/files/2014/1...-of-201413.jpg

http://www.stangtv.com/features/car-...ith-forgeline/

Instead of redoing all the suspension on Fbody and trying to reduce weight... why not start out with a lighter platform with better aero and suspension already?