Setting up a WS.6 to handle?
#1
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Setting up a WS.6 to handle?
Hey guys,
What are you guys doing to these cars to get them to handle better? I don't know anything about 4th gen suspensions really, I'm a first gen guy when it comes to this stuff. Since this is going to be a daily driver(when i get it), and the '68 is the hardcore road racer, I'm not going to go too hardcore, and I won't be doing most of thist stuff for a while. I'd like to pull about 1G on the pad when all is said and done. Obviously stiffer shocks and springs(unless I got to c/o's), and some bigger front and rear bars(preferred manufacturers?). Does anyone make 4 wheel c/o kits for these cars? Who makes "the best" SFCs. Any preferred manufacturer on Tubular UCA/LCA for handling? I get the impression that a lot of them are more drag racing oriented. I probably won't do any of this stuff until the Camaro is done, but I just want to learn more about the 4th gen suspension setups.
Can anyone turn me on to some other suspension companies for 4th gens?
All I really know if of is:
Global West
Hotchkis
BMR
All I really know of
Thanks,
Ralph
What are you guys doing to these cars to get them to handle better? I don't know anything about 4th gen suspensions really, I'm a first gen guy when it comes to this stuff. Since this is going to be a daily driver(when i get it), and the '68 is the hardcore road racer, I'm not going to go too hardcore, and I won't be doing most of thist stuff for a while. I'd like to pull about 1G on the pad when all is said and done. Obviously stiffer shocks and springs(unless I got to c/o's), and some bigger front and rear bars(preferred manufacturers?). Does anyone make 4 wheel c/o kits for these cars? Who makes "the best" SFCs. Any preferred manufacturer on Tubular UCA/LCA for handling? I get the impression that a lot of them are more drag racing oriented. I probably won't do any of this stuff until the Camaro is done, but I just want to learn more about the 4th gen suspension setups.
Can anyone turn me on to some other suspension companies for 4th gens?
All I really know if of is:
Global West
Hotchkis
BMR
All I really know of
Thanks,
Ralph
Last edited by Ralph L; 08-08-2004 at 08:39 PM.
#2
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You might want to check out this website http://www.lgmotorsports.com/
They have lots of RR goodies for your camaro. From what I've read, their c/o kit is considered topnotch but pricey (I guess you get what you pay for).
Sam Strano is another you can try www.stranoparts.com
I got my front swaybar from him (35mm hollow) and it's an awesome piece. He can help you with your setup (nice guy).
Another good website for f-body RR info is www.frrax.com
They have lots of RR goodies for your camaro. From what I've read, their c/o kit is considered topnotch but pricey (I guess you get what you pay for).
Sam Strano is another you can try www.stranoparts.com
I got my front swaybar from him (35mm hollow) and it's an awesome piece. He can help you with your setup (nice guy).
Another good website for f-body RR info is www.frrax.com
#5
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01white said it all, but here's the setup I think is best for making an fbody handle:
(I'm only going to give this away once!)
SLP SFC's and a roll cage for stiffness
Koni's SA's on all four
Hotchkiss 36 mm front bar, 1LE 21 mm rear
Ground Control CO's 500 lb/in front 150 lb/in rear
Aluminum rod end control arms front and rear
Aluminum rod end pandard
Lowered 2 inches with Relocation brackets
Wheel alignment with -2.0 camber 3/32 toe out
16 inch forged aluminum wheels 10 to 11 inches wide on all four
adjustable torque arm
That pretty much does it. If you do all that, I promise you will be pulling over 1g on the skidpad!
Edit: Some good tires would help a lot also, but I'm not sure which are best for the street. A lot of guys like Nitto 555RII's though.
(I'm only going to give this away once!)
SLP SFC's and a roll cage for stiffness
Koni's SA's on all four
Hotchkiss 36 mm front bar, 1LE 21 mm rear
Ground Control CO's 500 lb/in front 150 lb/in rear
Aluminum rod end control arms front and rear
Aluminum rod end pandard
Lowered 2 inches with Relocation brackets
Wheel alignment with -2.0 camber 3/32 toe out
16 inch forged aluminum wheels 10 to 11 inches wide on all four
adjustable torque arm
That pretty much does it. If you do all that, I promise you will be pulling over 1g on the skidpad!
Edit: Some good tires would help a lot also, but I'm not sure which are best for the street. A lot of guys like Nitto 555RII's though.
Last edited by Cal; 08-12-2004 at 06:12 PM.
#7
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LG Motorsports will have everything you need. My car is completely suspended by LG components. the thing you need to ask yourself though is, how much do I want to spend?, How harsh do I want my ride to be?, do I plan on going to the drag strip etc.
With my combo, drag racing is out of the question. Unless I want to do the first 100yards in tire smoke, its not even worth going. But when it comes to road course work Its a little rough on the street but bearable IMHO. Most people that have ridden in the car complain about thier kidneys hurting but oh well, to bad for them.
With my combo, drag racing is out of the question. Unless I want to do the first 100yards in tire smoke, its not even worth going. But when it comes to road course work Its a little rough on the street but bearable IMHO. Most people that have ridden in the car complain about thier kidneys hurting but oh well, to bad for them.
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#8
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LG Motorsports will have everything you need. My car is completely suspended by LG components. the thing you need to ask yourself though is, how much do I want to spend?, How harsh do I want my ride to be?, do I plan on going to the drag strip etc.
With my combo, drag racing is out of the question. Unless I want to do the first 100yards in tire smoke, its not even worth going. But when it comes to road course work Its a little rough on the street but bearable IMHO. Most people that have ridden in the car complain about thier kidneys hurting but oh well, to bad for them.
With my combo, drag racing is out of the question. Unless I want to do the first 100yards in tire smoke, its not even worth going. But when it comes to road course work Its a little rough on the street but bearable IMHO. Most people that have ridden in the car complain about thier kidneys hurting but oh well, to bad for them.
Good to hear, LG was what I was leaning towards. I won't spend that much on this car, as it will be my daily driver. The ride needs to be semi decent for that reason as well.
I'm building a '68 G-machine that is primarily built for road racing, and open road racing. I'm saving the super stiff ride, and ultra hardcore suspension for that car, I'm hoping to pull 1G on the pad with it. (DSE tubular UCA/LCA along with c/o kit (relocates mounting points and further alters geo, than just the UCA), DSE SFCs, and a custom 3-link built for road racing, 12pt cage, 1" front bar, custom rear bar, etc, etc, etc.).
I'd just like this car to handle nicely, nothing ultra hardcore, yet atleast) I will take it to the strip and have some fun with it, I'd like to be able to hook decently (2.0ish 60ft). Considering that the Camaro will not hook for anything (335/30/18s) and I'll have to muscle the 1/4 out on all top end (650rwhp), I'd like this car to make up for that somewhat.
P.S. I see you run SSC. What tech class are you running in, the 150? I'd like to run the Camaro in the 180 class eventually, but seeing as how I'd have to run the 130? class first, then work my way up, it may take a few years, and I'm not sure where I'd be car wise at that point.
#9
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I run in a number of different ORR events. Try checking out www.openroadracing.com. I run those events now, The SSCC is fighting some "issues" right now.
Running in an ORR event is a WHOLE different monster than any other form of racing. If you plan on running in the faster classes down the road, be prepared to do some things to the car that you might not have expected.
Running in an ORR event is a WHOLE different monster than any other form of racing. If you plan on running in the faster classes down the road, be prepared to do some things to the car that you might not have expected.
#10
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Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.
I've heard that getting tech'd into the upper speed classes is crazy. The Camaro will have a lot of safety provisions, it's basically going to be a race car with plates (except for the SMALL stereo). I doubt I'll tech for the unlimited class, infact I'm almost sure I won't. The 180 is a slight possibility, but might require some more non-street friendly mods.
I've heard that getting tech'd into the upper speed classes is crazy. The Camaro will have a lot of safety provisions, it's basically going to be a race car with plates (except for the SMALL stereo). I doubt I'll tech for the unlimited class, infact I'm almost sure I won't. The 180 is a slight possibility, but might require some more non-street friendly mods.
#11
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My car is also setup for ORR. Just ran GS 168/140. It's also a street driven vehicle so I've tried ( successfully I think ) to maintain some level of livability on a daily basis.As a matter of fact my wife just drove it to work lol ! She hasn't driven it in month's but it says something that she doesn't think it's too uncmfortable for her. It's definitely not as hard core as NataSS's ride, but handles very, very well for a semi-frequently street driven vehicle.
Remember that a car that can pull 1G in a corner can still be a very bad handling car. You can throw slicks on a stock '63 Plymouth Valiant and pull 1G but it's still a suicide ride at high speeds
Here's my major suspension mods
Prokit springs
Koni DA front shocks ( SA would do nicely too for less $$ )
Bilstein HD's on the rear
LG rod ended LCA's and PHB with relocation brackets
There's other smaller things I've done, and other things I'm going to do, but the above parts with a decent performance oriented alignment will go a long ways to curing the ills of a stock suspended 4th gen while not killing the budget
Remember that a car that can pull 1G in a corner can still be a very bad handling car. You can throw slicks on a stock '63 Plymouth Valiant and pull 1G but it's still a suicide ride at high speeds
Here's my major suspension mods
Prokit springs
Koni DA front shocks ( SA would do nicely too for less $$ )
Bilstein HD's on the rear
LG rod ended LCA's and PHB with relocation brackets
There's other smaller things I've done, and other things I'm going to do, but the above parts with a decent performance oriented alignment will go a long ways to curing the ills of a stock suspended 4th gen while not killing the budget
#12
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Racehead,
I hear you about a death trap at high speeds. There is alot of engineering and design behind the Camaro to prevent just that. I'm going for the 1G on street tires (Michelin pilot sports). Hopefully I'll reach that mark, I've got a lot of racers that have raced these cars for a long time helping me, but who knows until I get some numbers, it's all just talk.
Thanks for the tips on the mods, I'll keep them in mind, they sound like what i was thinking of, good shocks/springs and some lcas.
I hear you about a death trap at high speeds. There is alot of engineering and design behind the Camaro to prevent just that. I'm going for the 1G on street tires (Michelin pilot sports). Hopefully I'll reach that mark, I've got a lot of racers that have raced these cars for a long time helping me, but who knows until I get some numbers, it's all just talk.
Thanks for the tips on the mods, I'll keep them in mind, they sound like what i was thinking of, good shocks/springs and some lcas.
#14
A cage was mentioned in addition to SFCs. I just got SLP SFCs professionally installed (bolted and tack welded), and will be installing an SLP STB this weekend (or monday).
SLP told me that since the rest of the car was still stock, with those (and they were talking about just bolting the SFCs) I would be unable to harm the chassis in any way short of hitting something.
As time goes on, money becomes available, and my skill level increases, I do plan to continue modifying it with handling and that kind of racing (RR, Time Attack, AutoX, etc) in mind.
How much difference does a cage actually make? To be honest, I really do not want a cage in my car - it's damned ugly, expensive, a hassle to get installed, and PITA to work around afterward. But, I'd rather have my car last forever more than I'd rather avoid those issues.
Am I in danger of twisting or fatigueing the chassis by thrashing it around corners if I don't have a cage?
SLP told me that since the rest of the car was still stock, with those (and they were talking about just bolting the SFCs) I would be unable to harm the chassis in any way short of hitting something.
As time goes on, money becomes available, and my skill level increases, I do plan to continue modifying it with handling and that kind of racing (RR, Time Attack, AutoX, etc) in mind.
How much difference does a cage actually make? To be honest, I really do not want a cage in my car - it's damned ugly, expensive, a hassle to get installed, and PITA to work around afterward. But, I'd rather have my car last forever more than I'd rather avoid those issues.
Am I in danger of twisting or fatigueing the chassis by thrashing it around corners if I don't have a cage?
#15
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Might I recomend you check out www.rksport.com
I have Eibach prokit, koni adjustables, hotchkis stb & sfc's, RK sport anti roll bars, powerslots, and only 16's so far, and it's not too rough on all soft, and handles superb!!!
I have Eibach prokit, koni adjustables, hotchkis stb & sfc's, RK sport anti roll bars, powerslots, and only 16's so far, and it's not too rough on all soft, and handles superb!!!
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just a comment on the "hookin" factor, I have Eibach prokit w/ bilstein Hd's in back and revalved fronts and even on crappy OEM tires I pulled sub 2.0 60ft's, I've since put 285 wide Nitto 555's on 18x10 wheels and now I can't get my clutch to hold but my 60 ft's are still 1.9's.
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A blown LS1 powered 68 Camaro..... I can't wait to see your car at one of these open road races Ralph! Yet another SWEET ORR Chevy!
I mainly have my car setup for drag racing....solid LCAs & a BIG rear sway bar...but with some tweaking of shocks & such I'm going out with NataSS & Racehead next year to do some ORR. I will likely stay in the beginner class (120-130) but that still means I get to roll at 140-150mph. And take turns at speed! Anyway, SFCs, cages & springs do a lot for these cars. You can get there pretty easily. These cars can do it all.....
PS I had mine doing 145 (pre Moser) & it felt fine. The WS6 hoods break apart @ 190!
I mainly have my car setup for drag racing....solid LCAs & a BIG rear sway bar...but with some tweaking of shocks & such I'm going out with NataSS & Racehead next year to do some ORR. I will likely stay in the beginner class (120-130) but that still means I get to roll at 140-150mph. And take turns at speed! Anyway, SFCs, cages & springs do a lot for these cars. You can get there pretty easily. These cars can do it all.....
PS I had mine doing 145 (pre Moser) & it felt fine. The WS6 hoods break apart @ 190!
#19
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Hey guys thanks for all of the responses. Due to problems selling my truck, and all funds going into the Camaro, it looks like the 4th gen isn't going to become a reality until atleast a year from now. As for the roll cage, I won't be installing one in the 4th gen. The 12pt. modded in the Camaro is enough for me, I don't want a roll cage in my DD as well. If I didn't have the Camaro,then I would install one (once I get the 4th gen of course).
WAHUSKER,
I hope to see ya at some events as well, I probably will only make it out to 1 ORR event a year, they're all on the other side of the country! I'll hopefully be at a few open track days per year though, on the east coast.
WAHUSKER,
I hope to see ya at some events as well, I probably will only make it out to 1 ORR event a year, they're all on the other side of the country! I'll hopefully be at a few open track days per year though, on the east coast.
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Originally Posted by Cal
01white said it all, but here's the setup I think is best for making an fbody handle:
(I'm only going to give this away once!)
SLP SFC's and a roll cage for stiffness
Koni's SA's on all four
Hotchkiss 36 mm front bar, 1LE 21 mm rear
Ground Control CO's 500 lb/in front 150 lb/in rear
Aluminum rod end control arms front and rear
Aluminum rod end pandard
Lowered 2 inches with Relocation brackets
Wheel alignment with -2.0 camber 3/32 toe out
16 inch forged aluminum wheels 10 to 11 inches wide on all four
adjustable torque arm
That pretty much does it. If you do all that, I promise you will be pulling over 1g on the skidpad!
Edit: Some good tires would help a lot also, but I'm not sure which are best for the street. A lot of guys like Nitto 555RII's though.
(I'm only going to give this away once!)
SLP SFC's and a roll cage for stiffness
Koni's SA's on all four
Hotchkiss 36 mm front bar, 1LE 21 mm rear
Ground Control CO's 500 lb/in front 150 lb/in rear
Aluminum rod end control arms front and rear
Aluminum rod end pandard
Lowered 2 inches with Relocation brackets
Wheel alignment with -2.0 camber 3/32 toe out
16 inch forged aluminum wheels 10 to 11 inches wide on all four
adjustable torque arm
That pretty much does it. If you do all that, I promise you will be pulling over 1g on the skidpad!
Edit: Some good tires would help a lot also, but I'm not sure which are best for the street. A lot of guys like Nitto 555RII's though.