HELP! New Slave, MC, Pilot Bearing, and Clutch Disc, STILL Problems
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok.
HELP! New Slave, MC, Pilot Bearing, and Clutch Disc, STILL Problems I had it taken to a shop today and had them bleed it. It STILL sucks! It still releases at the top of the pedal (with the tick MC adjusted all the way out). It's still hard to get in to reverse and 1st with the car on. (easy with off). I did have the flywheel resurfaced, so I'm going to pull the tranny for the FOURTH time tonight, and measure for a shim. Does anyone else have any ideas? This is WAY past old....
It's not the hydrolics.If the clutch grabs at the top of the peddle and it's hard to get into gear the problem is the clutch assembly.The pressure plate is not fully disangaging the disk,probly a bad pressure plate or the disk is too thick.
What brand or type of clutch do you have again? Usually releasing at the top of the pedal and drag don't go together. If the clutch engages/releases near the floor you could adjust out pedal out more to help but you say that it releases at the top.
I'd be willing to bet there is some type of issue with the pressure plate causing your problems. If our master is adjusted to the max and it still isn't getting a complete release ( hard to tell if it is or not with your description) theres deffinately something strange going on...our cylinder can actuate the slave/tob way more than a stock master. Was it you that posted a that you got the Tick Cylinder to correct this issue and you still have the issue?
As I posted the other day, a shim will probably do nothing for you. The posts I'm speaking of were in the thread by gen414 concearning our master vs. the stocker. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find it.
-Jonathan
I'd be willing to bet there is some type of issue with the pressure plate causing your problems. If our master is adjusted to the max and it still isn't getting a complete release ( hard to tell if it is or not with your description) theres deffinately something strange going on...our cylinder can actuate the slave/tob way more than a stock master. Was it you that posted a that you got the Tick Cylinder to correct this issue and you still have the issue?
As I posted the other day, a shim will probably do nothing for you. The posts I'm speaking of were in the thread by gen414 concearning our master vs. the stocker. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find it.
-Jonathan
You beat me to it! I suppose it could be a warped disk as well. I've ran into that once with an LT1. Also, had one customer had a similar issue even after installing our master and he turned out that the clutch cover/pp was broken under one of the 6 bolts holding it to the flywheel. His problem would show up more once the clutch got a little heat into it though.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok.
Interesting. Thanks for the response guys. How would I know if the disc is too thick? Another weird thing... it drives SO nice after it's going along through town. Just the initial 1st and reverse and high pedal. I tried "racing" a little to see how 1-2, 2-3 felt at high RPM and it did fantastic. Such a strange issue. I'm pulling it apart tonight. Well... probably halfway tonight. I'll have a look at the pressure plate and clutch disc. The clutch disc is a single Mcleod. Is there a measurement I can do to test if it IS too thick?
Are you ussing the Mcleod pressure plate too?
Your symptoms happen on older Mcleod twin clutches.They had to be shimmed to get the right air gap or else they would be a bitch to get into gear at a stop and the peddle would grab high.
Each brand pressure plate is made to use a certain thickness disk.Mixing up the disks/pressure plates is not a good idea without knowing the specs.
Your symptoms happen on older Mcleod twin clutches.They had to be shimmed to get the right air gap or else they would be a bitch to get into gear at a stop and the peddle would grab high.
Each brand pressure plate is made to use a certain thickness disk.Mixing up the disks/pressure plates is not a good idea without knowing the specs.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok.
Mine isn't a twin. Since the clutch disc is new I'd certainly hope it isn't warped. I'm about halfway into it. Tonight or tom night I'll get to see it. Pacing myself this time... since I have another daily driver now.
Flywheel Resurfaced I had it taken to a shop today and had them bleed it. It STILL sucks! It still releases at the top of the pedal (with the tick MC adjusted all the way out). It's still hard to get in to reverse and 1st with the car on. (easy with off). I did have the flywheel resurfaced, so I'm going to pull the tranny for the FOURTH time tonight, and measure for a shim. Does anyone else have any ideas? This is WAY past old....
, remember time is money. 
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 8
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Not sure of your problem,but while you have the trans out I would look in to a remote speed bleader from Tick. Last time mine was out I put one in,(bleeding is no longer a pain in the ***) and it works great. Good luck on your problem.
