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I've got a couple gold blade DBW throttle bodies and I desperately want to powder coat them. For those unfamiliar with powder coating, the cure usually requires 400 degree baking. This means most plastic components and usually any electronics are destroyed if not removed. Therefore, throttle body disassembly is required.
However, the information available on disassembling these throttle bodies is spotty at best. So far, I've discovered the two screws in the blade were locked in with an equivalent of red loctite... had to drill both out.
Next, the four solenoid casing screws are security hex screws. Oddly, though, there is an o-ring style gasket at the seam after removing those screws. Odd.
Then, there are six Phillips screws on the electronics side. Four are easily removed, the two holding the canister-style motor in that lump off the side of the throttle body, though, were cemented in with the same stuff as the throttle blade screws.
So, after drilling those out, the solenoid case is ready for powder. However, the throttle side still needs disassembly as there's a black plastic gear that has the two opposing springs for the blade. I can't get that gear off.
Can anyone help? How do I get the shaft out of the throttle body housing?
Alright, well didn't get to the throttle today, so I have more time for input. Seriously, how can these things be such a mystery that the answer isn't out there already?
They are not made to be serviced... You should forget powder coating it and spray paint it black.
This seems familiar. Isn't this where neo tells the architect to **** off and saves the world from the machines?
It's been done before by others, and if gm didn't want me in there, they wouldn't have used screws. It's down to just one last thing and it's all ready for powder. All I have to do is get that gear off. There's got to be a way.
Hi, I manufacture A DBC conversion for the LS-2 Air Door.
The shaft is EASY to remove, I am sure by stating this, I too will get the "shaft".
Remove the butterfly screws, remove the butterfly, slide out the shaft.
Then make sure you use Loctite on the shaft screws.
Guys, thanks for the insight. However, the shaft doesn't want to come out. Not sure how to press it out of the bearings, as the "idle" side of the shaft has a freeze plug style cover in there. The bufferfly is out, the motor side of the blade is off, it's broken down as much as it can be. Basically, all I need to know now is how to get the shaft out (giggity).
Anyone have insight as to how to get that shaft out? If it's just pressed out, how does one press on the idle side of the throttle shaft with the freeze plug there?
OK, I will share that method.
I use a small punch at the plug edge, then giving a tap, it should rotate.
Once done, I use a Needle Nose Pliers pulling out the plug.
Your case, I would install a Pipe Plug, then send to PP.
OK, I will share that method.
I use a small punch at the plug edge, then giving a tap, it should rotate.
Once done, I use a Needle Nose Pliers pulling out the plug.
Your case, I would install a Pipe Plug, then send to PP.
Lance
Thanks you, sir! Based on the comments here, I took a risk and punched it through on the freeze plug side. The plug got destroyed, but the shaft is out! I notice the bearing on the freeze plug side has grease in it, that could make the powdering a bit more complicated, but I can handle that...
Thanks for all the help, gentlemen! I'll powder it and post follow up pics!
I notice the bearing on the freeze plug side has grease in it, that could make the powdering a bit more complicated, but I can handle that...
That is why I say that whoever does the powder coating needs to seal off the throttle body except only the exterior surfaces. Also of equal importance is the main airflow area where the throttle blade is. If that area gets powder coated it could cause binding of the throttle blade plus not sealing good at idle causing a fast idle. Whoever does this needs to be very careful.
That is why I say that whoever does the powder coating needs to seal off the throttle body except only the exterior surfaces. Also of equal importance is the main airflow area where the throttle blade is. If that area gets powder coated it could cause binding of the throttle blade plus not sealing good at idle causing a fast idle. Whoever does this needs to be very careful.
I do it, and I can assure you, I'm careful to mask critical spots. Usually, for something like this, I do a partial cure to ensure I don't get dust in the masked spots when tape is removed.
I will add, there were two rubber seals in the bearing. I've removed them and cleaned the metal portions, which will remain in the throttle during the process.
Spray the bearing out carefully, ensuring that you roll them while you do to get any grease out of the cage and underneath the bearings. You don't want to get the grease hard while baking it, it could bind up the bearings after re-assembly.
FYI you can powdercoat the whole throttle body, atleast ive had good luck doing it...
Far be it for me to tell something they can't do something, but this thing is full of plastic, rubber/silicone, grease (not likely high temp), and several tightly secured screws of different MOC than the substrate they're secured into. I'd highly suspect a DBW throttle body that underwent a "typical" powder coating cure as a whole.
But I digest... here's the finished product, LS3 TB in gunmetal pearl grey and a whole bunch of clear! The biggest issue in reassembly was getting the shaft set all the way. A few times I thought I had it and tried to set the blade in, but discovered I had at least another 1/8" to go. In getting it set in there, I distorted (mushroomed) the end that turns the TPS electronics. I straightened and ground it a little to get it back in there, but I hear just a little rattle in the casing. I didn't take much off, so I don't suspect operation will be an issue.
And for reference, here's the VC and intake set that it will match
Man, y'all are tough to satisfy! I actuated the blade full closed and full open several times during the reassembly process to ensure no binding. The screws in the throttle blade were installed with red loctite while the blade was forced full closed to ensure it wouldn't bind when it tried to trim idle air down.
But I guess you're right, it won't be proven until it's tried. Unfortunately, I don't have any vehicles running a 4 bolt DBW right now. Guess I'll just have to go buy one...
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LS3 Throttle Body Disassembly 
