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My response to this is DUH! Look, wheel hop isn't going away. It can get better, but unlikely will be nil on a IRS rear. Some cars are just better built and designed to handle it, ours unfortunately is not one. To others point in here the cheapest easiest way to solve the issue is with tires.
But look, you cannot simply get a more strudy/ridgid rear as what I have with the V1. I have every bushing, every arm, toe rods, 8.8, Coilovers, etc etc and while my wheel hop is zero on the street....on a prepped track with a 4K clutch drop and drag radials it will hop. So unless you do a solid axel swap with or start building a-arms and such for the rear of these cars......you're likely still gonna hop at one point or another.
There are a few ways to stop wheel hop, one is the kars kit, it helps lock in critical components and resist the urge to wheel hop, there are two in the classifieds.
I braced up all the weak areas, and i have to admit, my ride is tight and response is immediate
Stay away from the diff brace as it has a 99% chance of breaking the diff snout off.
Originally Posted by bigti99a
bushings are not the cure all. there are so many components and if you want a burn out machine you will need an 8.8 kit to go in there. otherwise wheel hop or not you will grenade your rear sooner than later.
Very true and the 95A don't help much at all. One of mine has the 75D which has to be special ordered from RevShift(not sure if CS makes them) and the other has the delrin inserts. Both minimized wheelhop 99% of the time. I also built some subframe connectors that helped the other 1% of the time. They worked well without bushing upgrade as well.
Originally Posted by RoadWarrior93
I've heard about the axle shafts, changing one to a different size. Is there a recommended brand for those? Knowing about the weak rear end but not knowing about the 8.8 conversation when I bought it, I purchased a warranty. So kind of hoping the rear end would grenade at some point
I understand that it's not going to be a burnout machine, just don't like the violent shuddering that happens when it does. I'll have to give some thought about the Kars kit and look into the other solutions.
GForce made them.
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead
I'm a road race guy,, but I've fixed quite a few cars with wheel hop by replacing their custom 1 piece drive line with a 2 piece like their car came with... Dont know if it applies here..
Salt flat cars often use drivelines with 5 or even more sections to get in to the 200MPH club.
Harmonics in the drive line at that speed can suck 40+ HP.. The longer the pieces the more resonance you can get and the drive line sucks away power as it starts to whip.
Cheers
Yes, many over the years in the V1 community swore by a long one piece driveshaft......I had no issues with the stock units or the custom two piece units GForce built. Some have.
Originally Posted by isis
The easy solution is shitty hard tires. My car with RSAs would only hop in the very very wet.
Originally Posted by BudRacing
Or wider sticky tires that don't spin easily. Grab n go.
I came across this on Quora yesterday and thought it was amusing and potentially worth a try.
My Porsche SUV driveshaft center bearing support blew, while 1000 miles away from home. This failure is characterized by a loud, violent thumping under the driveshaft tunnel, as the shaft is no longer supported by a rubber damper. The dealer fix was $1100. While there, I peeked underneath the car at the $tealer and noticed it was only the thin rubber membrane around the bearing that failed. The bearing itself appeared good. Instead of opting to have them fix it - I had the car towed to Autozone’s parking lot, where I cut twelve, two-inch sections of 3/8" coolant hose and stuffed them in series, around the bearing housing. Each hose piece was strapped in-place, with sturdy, half-inch Zip Ties.
On the shakedown test - I even did some hard, 125mph pulls without any trace of NVH on lone stretches of freeway, in daylight. I easily made it home without a single hitch. What was “supposed” to be a Band-Aid fix, turned out to be 5x stronger than the original Porsche part itself. I now have over 60,000 miles on it. Total cost was under $19. Labor took me 30 minutes, underneath the car.
This hack will work for any car or truck that has a driveshaft center support bearing!
My response to this is DUH! Look, wheel hop isn't going away. It can get better, but unlikely will be nil on a IRS rear. Some cars are just better built and designed to handle it, ours unfortunately is not one. To others point in here the cheapest easiest way to solve the issue is with tires.
But look, you cannot simply get a more strudy/ridgid rear as what I have with the V1. I have every bushing, every arm, toe rods, 8.8, Coilovers, etc etc and while my wheel hop is zero on the street....on a prepped track with a 4K clutch drop and drag radials it will hop. So unless you do a solid axel swap with or start building a-arms and such for the rear of these cars......you're likely still gonna hop at one point or another.
Ding, ding, ding. Crappier tires or more hp helps on the street. Once you hit a properly prepped track not as much. I was so happy after working out my issues with the 8.8. The street burn outs we great then I tried the track. HOP, HOP, HOP. You can find the right combination of rpm and clutch and be fine but it is much trickier on the track. Then after about a year I ran into hop on the street. I haven't duplicated again but it was one of those less than full throttle situations that ended up being the right combo or torque, rpms, grip, and etc. Good luck.
I am loving that rubber hose carrier bearing isolator! So much better than poly!
It's definitely a genius idea for a quick fix on the cheap. I don't really have a problem with the poly though. The compound is a soft 30A. Squishy by hand, but supportive.
Yeah, I know and it SHOULD not create any additional NVH, but I have HEARD it does, but until I HEAR it myself, it is hard to believe. I still do not like poly in this application, but that is just me and means jack ****.