best way to vent
#21
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I actually bought the cheap ebay fabbed covers. Buddy fabbed up the baffles inside. welded the bungs in the covers. they are at the intake side of cover in the front. People say they don't work well, and they don't help. I just let them keep on believing. LOL Id almost bet money you pull mine off and lose about a tenth, if not a tenth exactly.
#22
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I use a catch can mounted to the drivers side head with a baffle on top, two lines, one from each valve cover. I think 1/2 or 5/8ths. works perfect.
Use to run the pan evac, like mentioned but I was always told to run open headers with it. Now on stroker motors that seem to have a little more crank case pressure, my personal opinion I would not use it. starts sucking everything out of the valve cover lol
Use to run the pan evac, like mentioned but I was always told to run open headers with it. Now on stroker motors that seem to have a little more crank case pressure, my personal opinion I would not use it. starts sucking everything out of the valve cover lol
#25
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I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
#27
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I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
It's still kind of like what the old timers did with the vent tubes off the valve covers tied to the header collectors but instead of gumming up the exhaust pipes and oiling the roads you oil your engine and gum up parts....
#28
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Once upon a time, long, long ago....that's how they vented the crank case, just a hose hanging off a valve cover. Then came emissions and clean air act when the PCV was run back into the intake so the engine could "re-burn" the bad gasses.(blow by)
#29
So in other words bowtiedford is not running a PCV. Just a more sanitary (and less effective) version of a vented fill cap.
If you don't want to suck oil back into your intake but still want positive ring sealing from taking a suction on the crankcase than stick an oil separating catch can in the loop. Some are better than others
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...catch-can.html
If you don't want to suck oil back into your intake but still want positive ring sealing from taking a suction on the crankcase than stick an oil separating catch can in the loop. Some are better than others
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...catch-can.html
#30
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I do not have an actual PVC valve. I vent it to my can that has a breather.
Lot of engine guys I have seen told me to either vent it to outside air or a catch can, never back into the intake. Now on a very mild build I could see using a PCV as you don't have a lot of blow by. My stroker motor with larger ring gaps sees more oil in the air stream so I vent it to the can,
The same thing vein valves do for blood returning to the heart- prevents 'back flow'.
It is a well known fundamental of engine performance/building that increased vacuum in the crankcase results with a power increase- and other benefits. Something like 5% increase in power is possible on most engines. Serious racing engines use a vacuum pump driven by a belt (the power used to drive the pump is less than the power gained by running the vacuum). It doesn't matter how you produce the vacuum- exhaust driven, pump driven, turbo inlet driven, there is some benefit, some other than power. Cleaner crankcase vapors are consistent with cleaner engine oil and cleaner longer lasting engines (thus all factory engines include some form of OEM pcv which allows intake manifold vacuum to pull out dirty vapor and replaces it with clean atmospheric air).
#33
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Mine is the most common set up for carb engines, FI I had a different setup. On the engine dyno we have seen hp increase when a pump is running but we mostly installed it on dedicates drag motors. Only downside you will be draining that catch can quite a bit drag racing. There a few ways to vent, some are better then others and also how loose the motor is setup for how much blow by you have to take in consideration. On yellow bullet there a pages and pages on arguments on what works what doesn't lol.
#37
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my plan right now is to see how much oil comes off the valve cover as i raise the boost of the 5.3 2002 model i have. That front left hose in the above picture that goes to the catch can- right now on my engine, its just an open hose that leads nowhere, it can just spew oil all over the place (so I will see it) and so far I've gotten up to 3psi of boost without a drop coming out. I won't run much more than 10psi so I still have a ways to go. pretty excited to see what happens with it. The trick to keeping the oil in the crankcase is to keep the pressure down- so for example, my PCV valve (on the other valve cover) it leaks. I found it leaking during a routine pressure test. SO I already know that at some boost pressure X, the hose I just spoke of would probably leak because of the leaky PCV valve. So my recommendation to those of you with PCV valves is to always perform pressure tests on the crankcase to ensure it does not become positively pressurized during boost. Basically I plan to setup the pressure test again and try different PCV valves until I get one that seals up 100% under pressure. You can buy "high performance" pcv valves but that is beyond the scope of my junkyard budget/build.
#38
[QUOTE=Bowtiedford;19650933]Mine is the most common set up for carb engines.[/QUOTE
What is in your catch can when you drain it, with it set up is way? And how often do you drain it?
What is in your catch can when you drain it, with it set up is way? And how often do you drain it?
#39
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I have moisture and oil mixed in it lol. I really haven't measured it exactly but after maybe 2 to 3 weeks of driving I might have about a shot glass mix? Now drag racing I will drain it after I'm done as it will have almost that much of oil in it from the blow by. My engine is set up loose for nitrous and I run E85 so there is also more contamination I assume.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.
#40
I have moisture and oil mixed in it lol. I really haven't measured it exactly but after maybe 2 to 3 weeks of driving I might have about a shot glass mix? Now drag racing I will drain it after I'm done as it will have almost that much of oil in it from the blow by. My engine is set up loose for nitrous and I run E85 so there is also more contamination I assume.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.
My SBE 6.0 I probably could have gone a month without even checking it out. I would have had more moisture then oil on that motor. But big difference in clearances.