Thank you, I will be in touch. Hopefully, the car will be sorted out soon. I appreciate the all the help and the stand up style of the WS6 Store.

 

He got the car running today!
Was the crank sensor.

 

Vids or it didn’t happen!!

Lol. Congrats mang!

 

Thank you, I think pick up will be Thursday should have a couple of pictures then.

​​Have to do 500 miles of break in miles, then back for the dyno tune.

 

Picking the TA up tomorrow after a doctor appointment....after ~500 miles & oil change etc car goes back for the dyno tuning session...

 

 

Clean AF! Had a chance to run it yet? How's it feel?

 

It's good to drive the TA again! I'm sick of my Tundra.

Car has an engine break in tune right now so it's all basically 3,500 rpm and under for 500 miles then back for an oil change and filter then the dyno tuning.

The FAST LS3 102 LSXR isn't as anywhere near as pissy as the Fast 102 LSXRT cathedral was in the RS. The car does have some shudder and buck at low rpm. Looks like one gear lower is needed putting around in bumper to bumper than with my old set up. However, the final tuning may resolve a lot of that.

The LSXR intake is tall enough that the Hotchkiss shock tower brace has a spacer on each side to raise it a little bit to clear.

There is some whine - belts or accessories not sure yet

The LPE 58x to 24x box works very well. Sometimes the car takes many one second longer to crank than previous. Very happy about the LPE box.

Norris Motorsports did a very good install. Even managed to get the Holley valve covers to fit and the coil pack to just miss the heater box. I'm happy with the Norris Motorsports install.

 

Quick typing and get to driving !!

 

Better yet, use said phone to take walk around vids and in car vids... LOL

 

For comparison before the swap...


...and after



Halfway through the break in...

I've realized during "break in" the TA's brakes are overdue for an upgrade.
Likewise, the WS6 sway bars are due for new bushing or upgrade too.

Any budget friendly suggestions?

 

I'm going to be ordering a trans from RPM next week. Do you really think the Magnum is worth it over a level V T-56? I've always disliked shifting into third on the stocks trans, I'll consider a magnum if it's that much better.

Awesome build by the way, top notch!

 

Tang2 thank you, its fun to share my bit of experience.

The Hawk's Level 2 T56 in my 91 RS is basically Hawk's version of the RPM Transmission Level V. This a very good transmission, I had settled on getting exactly RPM transmission for my 99TA a few months ago. Bruce the owner of Hawk's said row through the gears of a Magnum before making my final decision when I was visiting Hawk's regarding some other parts. I took the advice and was amazed at the tight shift pattern, crisp, precision shifts. With a Pro 5.0 the Magnum centered 3-4 perfectly. This convinced me to upgrade from the Level V T56 to the Magnum. Jeremy at RPM Transmission was also very helpful.

I've been very happy with that choice. If I had to pick between the Magnum or the ERL 416 - I would keep the Magnum and let the 416 go. The Magnum makes the 99TA a joy to drive - even putting around town. My girlfriend likes driving the Magnum better than the stock T56 or the Hawk's Level 2 (ie basically RPM Level V) T56 in the white RS. Her son also likes the Magnum better. One of my friends needed to have his T56 in his 00 Firehawk rebuild and new pilot bushing. He's also drove the 91 white RS L2 T56 and 99 TA Magnum. After one ride in the TA with Magnum he decided that was exactly what he wanted.

My friend got his Magnum from Hawk's since they are close to him.
He's delighted with his Firehawk's new Magnum.

Yes, I think it's worth the cost to upgrade to the Magnum.
The McCloud RXT clutch goes well with the transmission.

My only regret with the white RS is that I didn't spend the extra cash for the Magnum when doing the resto-mod at Hawk's in 2015.

With all that said the RPM Level V is an excellent transmission

RPM Transmission - Level V $3195.00

All of our LEVEL V T56 six speed transmissions include:
*Media blast transmission case
*Solid keys
*Bronze fork pads on all gears 1-6 including reverse
*Bronze shifter bushing (n/a for Corvette)
*Steel 3-4 shifter fork
*RPM modified 1-2 shifter fork
*Hand fit sliders and hubs
*New Compressed Carbon blocking rings
*Performance Metal Micropolish
*Assembly to our specifications

 

That's one heck of a sell. Perhaps RPM should give you a referral commission haha! I'm going to call Jeremy tomorrow. I'll definitely talk with him in detail about both options. Thanks for sharing your experience!

 

Define your budget and application(s)...street fun, drag, autox, hpde, etc?

Brakes... how often do you want to clean your wheels and how much pad noise are you willIng to put up with? The tire compound is the biggest factor in stopping (what are you using?) then having a pad compound capable of locking up that tire is really all you need for casual driving. If you don't allow the pads to cool before the next serious braking event then they'll fade until allowed to cool again. If the activities risk frequent fade, then you need to step to a higher temp pad. Of course, you can step up total piston area and effective rotor radius to give more braking force also, just depends on your needs.

For the antisway bars, I'd recommend a hollow 35mm in front and anywhere from a 19-21mm in the rear, depending on how you like to balance over/under steer. If drag only you could go to a 25+mm in the rear but that can be a wild ride in corners on thw street.

I'd recommend talking to Sam Strano even if it'll only see street duty. If it'll see a lot of drag duty and you want it setup to favor that application, you might want to ask BMR or Midwest Chassis.

 

We could get you a deal on all braided lines and ftont c5 kit with slotted rears and hawk pads. Good on budget and easy to get replacement pads/rotors when necessary.
Let me know what you think.

 

All four corners Goodrich g-force sport comp-2 275 40r17 tires.
They replaced a set of Nitto NT05's.
They probably have 10,000 miles left before replacement in a year or so. So new tires are doable a bit later.
My preference is neutral steer or very slight under steer. Car is 99% street driven. Occasional drag strip & maybe auto-cross.
Rims are 02 SS Camaro 10 spokes. Dust on rims isn't an issue.
Rest of current set up is Eibach springs (1 inch drop) & SLP Bilsteins
UMI LCA & Panhard with poly bushings
SLP boxed subframes

Budget for brakes & sway bars need to be less than $1500
​​​​​​

 

We can easily get you under 1500 for c5 brake kit, rear rotors and pads, and bmr or umi sway bars front and rear with new end links and center bushings.
Ill sen you an email and we can work it out!

 

Thank you WS6 Store, I will keep that brake package in mind.

I talked with Sam Strano this afternoon.
The TA needed to lose the poly bushing LCA's and upgrade to an adjustable roto-joint rear & poly front bushing LCA's. Making this change opened the door to upgrading to Strano's front & rear anti-sway bars. I ordered these parts today from Sam.

Learned that probably one of the reasons my RS handles better in very hard corning compared to my TA is because the RS has the roto-joint LCA's that don't bind like the poly poly LCA's on the TA. The TA's old LCA's will end up on the convertible.

Next will make some basic measurements before deciding on the specific of brake upgrades.

I do like the idea of the front C5 calipers & rotors. Should work well and keep the costs down too.

 

Have you visited the track yet or a dyno to see what making power wise ?