Polished My Water Pump
Polished My Water Pump About 20 hours labor. I could have cut that down to about 15 but I sanded all the way to 12,000 grit to make sure all the edges and corners stayed perfect. This is a 92 Corvette model pump that originally came equipped with only one extra heater hose pipe, which I cut off and welded shut with Alumalloy for a cleaner appearance. I was a little bit nervous about doing this because of my experience with LT1 intakes and witnessing first hand their horrible casting quality but this water pump turned out to only have a minimal amount of porosity, and nothing that was bad enough that it could be seen from 3 feet away.
Last edited by thesoundandthefury; Sep 30, 2006 at 12:38 PM.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by DeltaT
12000 Grit?
Are you sure it wasn't 1200?
Looks nice anyway, just curious about your number.
Jim
Are you sure it wasn't 1200?
Looks nice anyway, just curious about your number.
Jim
Thanks for all the positive feedback guys. Much appreciated.
Originally Posted by DeltaT
Good info on the 12K grit, but why not just use a (much cheaper) rubbing or polishing compound and cloth wheel?
Jim
Jim
I've got about 4 years of polishing experience under my belt so far, and one thing I've learned from dealing with parts that have alot of varied and/or intricate surface patterns is that it's very easy to miss sanding out scratches from a previous grit down in all the nooks and crannies. (The eye has a tendency to focus on all the wide, flat spots.) So there's always the likelihood of having to "go back to the drawing board" after revealing all of the scratches you missed when buffing. In this case, because there are so many edges and corners, I went extreme overkill on the sanding to make sure all the scratches were gone before taking it to a buff. (The micromesh brings the finish to a somewhat cloudy mirror, but bright enough to see any and all sanding imperfections.) It's by no means necessary to go to this extreme to get good results, I mean I could have stopped at 600 grit before I took it to a buff, but like I said I wanted to avoid the risk of having to go back and re-sand if I had missed anything. I have nightmares about stuff like this, lol.
Originally Posted by DeltaT
Have you experimented with any of the acids that can save a bunch of time on the rough stuff? I'm not sure how dangerous they are for home use, though.
Jim
Jim
Nitric/phosphoric acid. (Bright dip.) It's really not well suited for anything outside of industrial applications. It gives off some nasty fumes that can cause cancer. From what I've heard about it, if you can get the chemistry right it works very well. Maybe in the future...
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: the woodlands
wut exactly did you do, just sand it? or wut do you do after you sand it, i could do some work like that, ill be losin my car for about 6 months. my license will be suspended for a 113 in a 65 and a 67 in a 40. when im already on defferd judification or somethin like that 
Originally Posted by J_BAT
wut exactly did you do, just sand it? or wut do you do after you sand it, i could do some work like that, ill be losin my car for about 6 months. my license will be suspended for a 113 in a 65 and a 67 in a 40. when im already on defferd judification or somethin like that http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...8&iSubCat=1445
