After breaking in 1000 miles on my 9".... can I do anything about the whine?
Huh?
Setting the backlash, if you're not a mongaloid, should only be done once, and once only. IF, you know what you're doing. IF it takes you more than one shot to get the backlash set correctly, you have no business touching a rearend.
It's going to whine. If you don't like it on long drives, go buy a new Phil Collins CD and turn the radio up........
Yeah , all this **** with rear ends really pisses me off. You scrimp & save to buy the best lookin & fastest muscle car out there only to find out later that even if you don't beat on it the ****** rear ends gonna either start howlin or break or both. And there is NO alternative replacement rear end assy that won't highway quietly and hold together if raced even occasionally . So , basically , we're fucked ! That's why after spending an embarrassing amount of money trying to fix this beautiful bucket of bolts , I'm selling this money pit. I'm cuttin bait now. What fun is it to have a nice lookin car that is admittedly pretty damn fast but one that you can't enjoy riding on the street or just cruisin with the top down with all that howlin & whine sound coming from the rear end ? No , I'm afraid I'm just too uncompromising when it comes to driving around in a clunker that sounds like the rear end is about to fall out from under it. Its kinda hard to be cool when driving a clunker. Typical red-neck territory , not that there's anything wrong with being a red-neck. Hell , I was once one in my younger days . To make a long story short,I'm going back to Mustang. A Shelby 500 to be exact. Something with a bitchin sounding true duals & a GOOD solid rear end with NO howl on the highway and a roomy back seat .
Yeah , all this **** with rear ends really pisses me off. You scrimp & save to buy the best lookin & fastest muscle car out there only to find out later that even if you don't beat on it the ****** rear ends gonna either start howlin or break or both. And there is NO alternative replacement rear end assy that won't highway quietly and hold together if raced even occasionally . So , basically , we're fucked ! That's why after spending an embarrassing amount of money trying to fix this beautiful bucket of bolts , I'm selling this money pit. I'm cuttin bait now. What fun is it to have a nice lookin car that is admittedly pretty damn fast but one that you can't enjoy riding on the street or just cruisin with the top down with all that howlin & whine sound coming from the rear end ? No , I'm afraid I'm just too uncompromising when it comes to driving around in a clunker that sounds like the rear end is about to fall out from under it. Its kinda hard to be cool when driving a clunker. Typical red-neck territory , not that there's anything wrong with being a red-neck. Hell , I was once one in my younger days . To make a long story short,I'm going back to Mustang. A Shelby 500 to be exact. Something with a bitchin sounding true duals & a GOOD solid rear end with NO howl on the highway and a roomy back seat .x2, rear ends should'nt be so ******* expensive and not work right. Though I'd never buy a mustang.
Setting the backlash, if you're not a mongaloid, should only be done once, and once only. IF, you know what you're doing. IF it takes you more than one shot to get the backlash set correctly, you have no business touching a rearend.
It's going to whine. If you don't like it on long drives, go buy a new Phil Collins CD and turn the radio up........
There is no reason why a freshly set up rear with new(good) gears and bearing should make noise. There are defective gears and bearings out there, but for people to say you should expect noise is no true. There are rears that initially are quiet and after a few hard launches will make some noise, but if the gears are good the should be set up quietly.
A lot of places will assemble the center sections and give it the good enough to sale stamp, only thing to do would be have someone check the specs.
A lot of the times places will write on the gears themselves the installation measurements, maybe you can pull the center section and look for it.
Most likely you'll need to get them shimmed a bit one way or the other to get ride of the whine.
You need this or you need that . Bla! Bla! Bla! Yada! Yada! Yada!
The fact of the matter is , , , , it's a black art ! It's a hit or miss proposition. Even the so called experts admit it's really just a shot in the dark. Everything , and I mean "EVERYTHING" can be spot on and there is still at least a 50/50 chance that sucker is gonna howl if not right away then sooner rather than later. That's why so many F-body cars end up being race only cars . Guys eventually just give up trying to quiet their howlin rear end & just strip it down & make that loud ****** a race only vehicle.
You need this or you need that . Bla! Bla! Bla! Yada! Yada! Yada!
The fact of the matter is , , , , it's a black art ! It's a hit or miss proposition. Even the so called experts admit it's really just a shot in the dark. Everything , and I mean "EVERYTHING" can be spot on and there is still at least a 50/50 chance that sucker is gonna howl if not right away then sooner rather than later. That's why so many F-body cars end up being race only cars . Guys eventually just give up trying to quiet their howlin rear end & just strip it down & make that loud ****** a race only vehicle.
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Rear gears can be set-up quietly, look at the factory rears. You just have to take the time to do it and apparently Moser is spitting them out on an assembly line - its the 'good enough' mentality. And with a no warranty policy why bother.
Here was the thread I started a couple months back.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=noisy+moser
Still haven't took it apart, between being frusturated with it and working a few other bugs out of my NEW combo haven't had the time. Its not a daily driver, just a toy.
When I do I will inspect everything, take a pattern and take plenty of pics for the site.
I have to agree, its just not right to pay 2500.00 for a complete rear and end up with this plus having to do it all over again.
Like I said before, the torque arm does magnify noise, but there are plenty of 7.5/7.6, 9 bolts and some Dana 44's that were quiet from the factory, so there is no reason why a quality aftermarket rear cant be quiet.
Just because you cant get yours quiet (or your installer) doesnt mean that everybody has to deal with noise, and it also does not make it a 50/50 proposition. A small ring gear(7.6) pulling 1.5x 60fts in a over 3700lb race weight vehicle(I carry tools, etc- and it has been weighed), I do not expect it to stay quiet forever. A 12 bolt or 9", assembled with quality parts and set up correctly, so STAY quiet. And MANY, MANY have.
Like I said before, the torque arm does magnify noise, but there are plenty of 7.5/7.6, 9 bolts and some Dana 44's that were quiet from the factory, so there is no reason why a quality aftermarket rear cant be quiet.
Just because you cant get yours quiet (or your installer) doesnt mean that everybody has to deal with noise, and it also does not make it a 50/50 proposition. A small ring gear(7.6) pulling 1.5x 60fts in a over 3700lb race weight vehicle(I carry tools, etc- and it has been weighed), I do not expect it to stay quiet forever. A 12 bolt or 9", assembled with quality parts and set up correctly, so STAY quiet. And MANY, MANY have.







