Ls1 engine noise video
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (37)
You're talking about the high-pitched squealing sound, right?
My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
#3
You're talking about the high-pitched squealing sound, right?
My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
#5
Not a pulley
Just an update: Been super busy but finally pulled the belt and started with same noise. Not sure if I should pull the push rods and rockers to look for damage. Or pull heads and inspect lifters and peak down to the cam for wear signs. Or just remove the whole engine to a stand and replace/rebuild.
it sounds like either a cam bearing, lifter, or maybe a pushrod ect. Sound comes from like right below the intake manifold in middle of engine.
it sounds like either a cam bearing, lifter, or maybe a pushrod ect. Sound comes from like right below the intake manifold in middle of engine.
#6
11 Second Club
iTrader: (37)
Thanks for the update. Is this a stock engine?
Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
#7
Thanks for the update. Is this a stock engine?
Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
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#9
Same issue
I have the same noise, after a new build. I was convinced it was a bad lifter and I am in the process of removing the engine.
After removing the headers I noticed one of my exhaust ports was clean and all the others had black exhaust dust. So I believe this cylinder is not firing at all.
if that is the case and I have bad wiring or coil will the engine make that squeaking sound just because the cylinder is not firing?
After removing the headers I noticed one of my exhaust ports was clean and all the others had black exhaust dust. So I believe this cylinder is not firing at all.
if that is the case and I have bad wiring or coil will the engine make that squeaking sound just because the cylinder is not firing?
#12
[QUOTE=vff_jeff;19588571]Guess that sound. Oil pressure is good, changed oil recently and is full. No overheating. Otherwise runs ok. Stopped driving as soon as I heard it. Only audible at idle. Rpm up and noise goes away. [/QeUOTE]. Finally tore it down. Looks like a few lifters and lobes are worn. Nothing’s super bad so hopefully new cam and lifters will fix it.
#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Well after hearing your video I was thinking valve train all along and your last post confirms it.
#16
yeah unfortunately I didn’t do this setup. May have also had too little spring pressure. On the new setup I will be doing it properly. Next setup will be 243 heads with new dual springs and pushrods. Cam is much more tame 22x/23x 58x/58x 115 last vs the aggressive g5x3 in it now with .625 behives
Last edited by vff_jeff; 02-25-2018 at 01:05 AM.
#17
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
I’ll Apple Pay you a dollar pm your phone number lol 😂
yeah unfortunately I didn’t do this setup. May have also had too little spring pressure. On the new setup I will be doing it properly. Next setup will be 243 heads with new dual springs and pushrods. Cam is much more tame 22x/23x 58x/58x 114 last vs the aggressive g5x3 in it now with .625 behives
Sounds like the new combo is a much better match than the last one. Those bee hives were getting their asses kicked, wouldn't be surprised if you pick up power also, you may have had valve float as well with the light springs/big cam combo.
Do a bowl blend on those heads before you throw them on, it helps a decent amount and is one of the easier parts of porting a head. Take em in for a valve job too if you can swing it.
#18
I agree
Sounds like the new combo is a much better match than the last one. Those bee hives were getting their asses kicked, wouldn't be surprised if you pick up power also, you may have had valve float as well with the light springs/big cam combo.
Do a bowl blend on those heads before you throw them on, it helps a decent amount and is one of the easier parts of porting a head. Take em in for a valve job too if you can swing it.
Sounds like the new combo is a much better match than the last one. Those bee hives were getting their asses kicked, wouldn't be surprised if you pick up power also, you may have had valve float as well with the light springs/big cam combo.
Do a bowl blend on those heads before you throw them on, it helps a decent amount and is one of the easier parts of porting a head. Take em in for a valve job too if you can swing it.
#19
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
Eh, depends on cost, once you start forcing air through, the little additions to help air flow are minimized, until you get to where you're pushing so much air it becomes an issue again.
I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.
The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.
I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.
The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.
#20
Eh, depends on cost, once you start forcing air through, the little additions to help air flow are minimized, until you get to where you're pushing so much air it becomes an issue again.
I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.
The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.
I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.
The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.