Lil'John

Title states it but to clarify:
Short version:
Heads coming off 60k mile LQ4 from 2004 plus oil pan, what should I consider doing? Any parts upgrade I should do?

I've got head gaskets, oil pan gasket, head bolts, knock sensors/harness, oil pressure sensor, cam sensor, intake/throttle body gaskets, plus more.

Cam and springs were replaced(Tick TowMax Stage 1 plus Brian Tooley platinum dual springs)

Long version:
I was swapping cam and lifter springs. First, I dropped valve in engine on one side so I ordered a head gasket and head bolts for that side. Then I found out I installed wrong cam(wrong one sent) Then upon getting correct cam, I dropped lifter on opposite head while removing wrong cam.

Lil'John

Bump before I start assembling.

GaragebuiltSS

iTrader: (1)

arp rod bolts, maybe main studs if you're gonna be making a lot of power.

Lil'John

If the cam and tune even sniff 400 hp, I'd be shocked Which I am fine with since it is an offroad vehicle and occasional tow situation(7k)

On the arp rod bolts(maybe it was rod studs), most of the reading implied they only became worthwhile with boost/higher hp.

93Polo

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't replace the rod bolts given your RPM and power level. In my opinion replacing the rod bolts would put you at more risk of needing to resize the rods and possibly damaging a bearing than a factory rod bolt failing.

I would do fresh gaskets and call it a day. A rear cover with gaskets maybe cheaper than just the gaskets.

thatoneguybriz

iTrader: (2)

Matt Happel AKA "Denmah" is making over 1000WHP on his turbo LQ4 Colorado with a stock bottom end and factory head and rod bolts. Check it out on Sloppy Mechanics YouTube or Sloppy Wiki Page.

Conclusion: New gaskets, and send it.

GaragebuiltSS

iTrader: (1)

I thought he put rod bolts in it. Badass build none the less

Lil'John

His Colorado got me into my other mess: turbo 5.3

This engine is just 60k stock LQ4 with cam and spring replacement. Sounds like best bet is seal it and stop screwing around

thatoneguybriz

iTrader: (2)

I don't think he did since he's always railing against head studs and rod bolts. I know it has Gen IV rods but I though that was it. If someone has more info I'm always willing to put my foot in my mouth...

Lil'John

I thought he was "railing" against the benefit vs cost of head studs/rod bolts.

As a quick followup question, should I be using a break-in oil for the new cam install? The rest of the engine is ~60k miles except for new cam, valve springs, and push rods.

I've got a pile of break-in oil waiting for another engine so no real delay over using it. Just added cost

thatoneguybriz

iTrader: (2)

Just use a good quality conventional oil to lubricate the cam when you install it. Also soak the lifters in oil before installing. After you run the engine through a couple of heat cycles it might be wise to drain the oil and replace it if for no other reason than inspection to make sure there is no "glitter".

Lil'John

So in other words, just treat it normal except for a quick oil change at about 500 miles?

thatoneguybriz

iTrader: (2)

Yes sir. Run a couple of heat cycles before you go to wide open throttle. Drain the oil, replace, and then go sick!