arcticblue75

I recently purchased an incredibly 100% all-original 1975 Firebird. 76,900 original miles, California car, little old lady owner. It’s a highly optioned base model (not an Esprit, despite the vinyl top)… one owner. It is in very good overall condition, but has two major exterior issues that will need addressing soon. While I wish I could keep the car completely original without any modifications, I’m likely going to have to replace (as opposed to repairing) the hood (and for sure the vinyl top).

Of all places on the car to rust, the hood happened to get some severe rust on it, likely due to the car having been covered with a tarp for years with acidic tree sap (or something similar) trapped underneath. There are about 15-20 small holes on the hood, some close to pinhole size, some look like bullet holes. Part of me wishes to be able to save this hood, since the car is SO, SO incredibly straight and original… but I feel like the rust issues are going to not be fixable, and that it would cost far more than simply getting a replacement hood and painting it to match. Does anyone even think the hood is savable from looking at the pictures?

My hood-related questions---------------

I love the car’s patina; it’s Arctic Blue, and overall in quite good shape despite some flaws. I have zero interest in repainting the car – I absolutely want to save this patina. Not sure how close I would ever be able to get a painter to match the patina on a new hood if I were to completely replace the hood. It would suck having a nice patina on the whole car, but a brand new shiny looking painted hood. That would not look right.

The current hood (despite the rust) opens/closes so incredibly straight, I also wonder how close a new hood would ever get at retaining that straight, PERFECTLY aligned look.

Since I’m probably reluctantly going to have to replace the hood, should I go for a used, good condition Firebird hood (and paint it), or a reproduction from a place like Classic Industries? Does anyone recommend one over the other in terms of what would fit best and be the straightest option?

Regarding the vinyl top:--------------


’m not seeing that any Firebird reproduction parts maker actually manufactures a 1975 white vinyl top.

From 1975-on, it appears only different non-white colors are available, yet one can still order a 1974 or earlier vinyl top in white.I do want to keep this car original, and I do not want to simply permanently remove the vinyl top from the car. I want a new white top on there that looks the same.

Does anyone think it’s a wise (or dumb) idea to think of purchasing a 1974 white vinyl top (from say, Classic Industries), and having a repair facility cut it to fit? After all, the 1974 rear window is smaller, so in theory, it would seem that there’d simply be excess material that is not needed that can easily be cut away. But I don’t know if it’s as simple as that, or if there are some complications that would be introduced doing this method.

Of course, I realize I could simply have a vinyl top repair facility simply create/use their own similar white fabric and make a completely custom (yet original-looking) top, and avoid having to cut a 1974 reproduction top. Not sure which of these options makes most sense, and no I have not yet consulted with any actual repair place.

When replacing a 2nd gen Firebird vinyl top, will this necessitate replacing the top side window weatherstripping? I have previously had a Firebird that had its weatherstripping replaced, but this led to problems, since I realize it’s a very specific art/science in getting weatherstripping to fit perfectly. The current weatherstripping is in good shape overall despite being original, and I’d MUCH rather not have to replace it whatsoever. But looking at how the vinyl top is on the car, it almost seems like they may have to cut into the weatherstripping in order to replace the top. Does anyone know?

- Has anyone had experience in replacing a 2nd gen Firebird vinyl top? There is obviously some rust underneath, which we won’t know how severe until digging into it. Is it pretty much a given that the rear window will have to be removed from the car in order to rustproof it, etc?

How expensive does this typically cost? Does anyone have a ballpark range?

Other than the new vinyl top material itself, what other parts will I have to be concerned with purchasing when it comes to replacing the top? I’m thinking that various clips, etc will break/snap off and need replacing, and possibly other things like gaskets, weatherstripping around the rear window, etc. Are all of these readily available aftermarket parts?

I appreciate everyone’s help very much in advance!

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Welcome to LS1tech!

I'd say you need to take the car to a competent body shop.

Don't forget to bring along a competent pile of money and plenty time-these jobs take time.

I have bad news for you, these cars are known to rot in the lower corners of the rear glass. Peal up the vinyl top and you'll see.

I'm liking the color combo.

pdxmotorhead

The hood looks bad,, but a trip to a good soda blaster shop with a spray welder and some quality time on the back porch with beer and a sanding block will get it there..

Once today blasted it could be leaded as well.. But thats a whole level up in the game.

Yep the venal has to come off and I'd soda blast the whole roof, then give it a heavy coat(s) of epoxy hard primer, wet sand to a 100 to 200 grit surface so the adhesive will stick the next top.. I'd focus on matching the fabric it won't cost much different to have a"kit" installed vs someone cutting it themselves. I had a new Yorker done for my grandmother years ago, only took 2 days..

trevmust

I don' think you can save the patina on the hood.