Driving to tuner
#1
Driving to tuner
Would I be able to drive the car as long as I stay out of boost to the tuner? I am having issues finding a trailer that I am able to get the damn car loaded onto without dragging headers and exhaust. Car is NOT a drag strip car nor will it ever be. It is just a cruiser and gets minimal drive time (maybe 3000 miles in last 3 years). Would be an approx 120 mile drive.
D1X installed should be around 6-8psi according to brute speed on sbe ls1
BTR LS3 supercharged cam, springs, pushrods, retainers, trunion upgrade (new oil pump installed just because was all apart anyways with melling hp pump)
Plugs changed and gapped for blower (.035)
3200 Triple Disk Stall
Meth system (currently disabled so it does not engage)
80# injectors (DEKA)
I have changed the injector data in HP Tuners to account for the injectors. I will have to adjust the idle speeds if I try because car will start and run cold but once placed in gear or warmed up it stalls out (due to cam/stall)
I have driven before i installed stall, cam and injectors staying out of boost for a few miles and besides horrible afr (running rich) it did run okay.
D1X installed should be around 6-8psi according to brute speed on sbe ls1
BTR LS3 supercharged cam, springs, pushrods, retainers, trunion upgrade (new oil pump installed just because was all apart anyways with melling hp pump)
Plugs changed and gapped for blower (.035)
3200 Triple Disk Stall
Meth system (currently disabled so it does not engage)
80# injectors (DEKA)
I have changed the injector data in HP Tuners to account for the injectors. I will have to adjust the idle speeds if I try because car will start and run cold but once placed in gear or warmed up it stalls out (due to cam/stall)
I have driven before i installed stall, cam and injectors staying out of boost for a few miles and besides horrible afr (running rich) it did run okay.
#3
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I was under the impression that if you changed/increased your injector(s) that it was a no no to drive the vehicle without tune. When I spoke with my tuner Pat G to tune my car he told me to leave me stock injectors in to drive to his shop then swap in my new injectors there and we would tune.... now I just have a H/C/I build but that's my 2 cents, I believe the extra volume of gas can wash out the rings/cylinder walls..... Just a thought I'm sure some of the next level guys will chime in.
Ooops just noticed that you said you have already adjusted for the new injectors.... I should read more... maybe call the tuner to be safe??
Ooops just noticed that you said you have already adjusted for the new injectors.... I should read more... maybe call the tuner to be safe??
#4
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I was under the impression that if you changed/increased your injector(s) that it was a no no to drive the vehicle without tune. When I spoke with my tuner Pat G to tune my car he told me to leave me stock injectors in to drive to his shop then swap in my new injectors there and we would tune.... now I just have a H/C/I build but that's my 2 cents, I believe the extra volume of gas can wash out the rings/cylinder walls..... Just a thought I'm sure some of the next level guys will chime in.
#6
I was under the impression that if you changed/increased your injector(s) that it was a no no to drive the vehicle without tune. When I spoke with my tuner Pat G to tune my car he told me to leave me stock injectors in to drive to his shop then swap in my new injectors there and we would tune.... now I just have a H/C/I build but that's my 2 cents, I believe the extra volume of gas can wash out the rings/cylinder walls..... Just a thought I'm sure some of the next level guys will chime in.
I was under impression that as long as the tune data was changed for the injector change it was okay. I emailed about changing injectors as to avoid being charged 140.00 for injector change (labor to install) and was informed that as long as I changed data in HP tuners to reflect the new injectors. To be blunt I have NO clue as to what is right or wrong in this case. I could put stockers back in however that would involve changing them at tuner of course. Maybe others know for 100%?
#7
While sitting in garage idling (as we are trying to sort issues with idling enough to get on trailer) the AFR according to my wideband gauge is around 14 when in closed loop (cant remember right now but i could verify) Car SMELLS horrible rich of course due to long tubes/no cats and blower I am assuming. I do not have HP tuners pro and only have the standard version.
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#9
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Unless you have the tuning adjusted to where you're not washing down the cylinders with excessive fuel from it running fat, I feel the best thing to do is to put the stock injectors back in it. You can swap them out once you get there after the engine has cooled down, and save yourself $140.00. Bob
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#10
Unless you have the tuning adjusted to where you're not washing down the cylinders with excessive fuel from it running fat, I feel the best thing to do is to put the stock injectors back in it. You can swap them out once you get there after the engine has cooled down, and save yourself $140.00. Bob
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#11
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While sitting in garage idling (as we are trying to sort issues with idling enough to get on trailer) the AFR according to my wideband gauge is around 14 when in closed loop (cant remember right now but i could verify) Car SMELLS horrible rich of course due to long tubes/no cats and blower I am assuming. I do not have HP tuners pro and only have the standard version.
That is not the correct way to size new injectors. There's more to injector data than flow rate and min pulse width.
#15
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You're literally telling him, "ignore the real injector data you have specific to your injectors and use this theoretical % increase". Other parameters like injector pulse width voltage adjustment and small pulse adjustment matter to get the car to run right. If he had zero data, or there wasn't any data available, then sure; but he has the data.
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Youre literally overthinking it, probably because you want to argue, or show how much of a competant tuner you are. The formula I gave will suffice as a good starting point, and enough to get him to the tuners.
Oh the real time injector data says hes idling at 14afr? Nevermind then. Now we can safely assume he'll be fine throughout the full rpm range.
Oh the real time injector data says hes idling at 14afr? Nevermind then. Now we can safely assume he'll be fine throughout the full rpm range.
#17
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Youre literally overthinking it, probably because you want to argue, or show how much of a competant tuner you are. The formula I gave will suffice as a good starting point, and enough to get him to the tuners.
Oh the real time injector data says hes idling at 14afr? Nevermind then. Now we can safely assume he'll be fine throughout the full rpm range.
Oh the real time injector data says hes idling at 14afr? Nevermind then. Now we can safely assume he'll be fine throughout the full rpm range.
And PS, nobody said he's good through the rev range. He wants to be able to drive to the dyno shop for a real tune. Try reading next time.
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You're UNDERthinking it. Making blanket statements about stuff like fuel injector data is not only stupid, but dangerous. You care about the guys motor/tuning so much, then stop giving bad advice and let him use real injector data instead of your B.S. ballpark answer.
And PS, nobody said he's good through the rev range. He wants to be able to drive to the dyno shop for a real tune. Try reading next time.
And PS, nobody said he's good through the rev range. He wants to be able to drive to the dyno shop for a real tune. Try reading next time.
At least we know he can idle it to the tuner.