Garthanicus

Hey everyone! First off, I just want to say I'm glad to be apart of the community, and look forward to meeting some awesome people.
Anyways, about a month ago, I was doing some looking around for a new car, and was able to snag up a nice 1999 Gen IV v6 for $1100.



I gotta say, I've definitely fallen for my F-Body 100%

I've been doing some research on engine swaps and performance upgrades, and I've learned quite a bit. However, I did come up with some questions.

1. I know it would be cheaper to sell the v6 and get a v8 instead of swapping it, but I'm stubborn. How much would have to be swapped (transmission, exhaust system, etc.) to ensure nothing goes wrong down the line?
2. Would it be possible to fit a modern day LS3 into this baby? The engine looks very similar to the LS1 that comes in the Gen IV Z28, so I was wondering if such a swap would be possible.
3. Would it be more demanding on the car to go with the LS3 (assuming it would fit) or the Z28's LS1?
4. Should I upgrade to a stronger automatic or manual transmission?
5. Would wider wheels & tires be a benefit or hindrance?
6. And finally, how do I do any/all of this without making it seem like I'm just some douchey ricer guy?

I'm sure I'll end up with more questions, but that's the gist of it for now. Thanks for stopping by!

2kSilverSS

1 Nearly everything have to/should be swapped. A donor car is a great way to go but i have feeling thats prolly not in your budget at this time.
2 Yes an LS3 fits just fine its a bit harder than older LS1 or 5.3 6.0 due to more electronic controls like pedals and throttle body
3 It would be more demanding on the rear end mostly. If you run a M6 or slicks it wont last any length of time if you really launch it.
4 You really should buy a engine/tranny together to solve any of those problems. You will also need the crossmembers down below to fit it. LS3 with M6 or A6 is good either way.
5 17*9.5 wheels are plentiful and really make a difference and at any power level.
6 Just do a good job on it and you wont have to worry about that stuff
7 I am not a pro but i think this will point you in good direction but also raise other questions im sure. Truck engines your best bang for buck by far but Ls3 is very good to.

freeky

theres alot of great info on these pages . good luck and enjoy this adventure

Garthanicus

Thanks for the feedback. This is gonna be a long term project, so budget won't be an issue, just as long as I get it done right. I'm going to go with an LS3 connect & cruise kit directly from Chevy so I can avoid any issues in that regard. Got a few more questions that came up, though.

1. For the rear end, would it be better to go with one from a z28 or ss, or a custom one (e.g. Hawks motorsports)?
2. What kind of replacement suspension should I be looking at?
3. With an LS3 inside, will an LS1 exhaust system from a z28/ss work, or will I have to do some custom work?
4. Is there anything else I'm missing? I'm not sure if this covers everything, as I don't know every small detail involved in such a complex process.

Again, thank you all for the help

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

If you build the motor you can put a 24x crank sensor on the LS3, LS7, or aftermarket 4" stroke crank. Extended the cam sensor lead to the front of the block and swap the outside pin location on the plug. At that point a tune in the stock LS1 computer can run the motor without the need for electronic pedal. Just a thought.

Rear axle would depend on the power and use of the car. The stock 10 bolt isn't strong enough for a stock LS1 M6 on slicks at the drag strip really. Automatic cars can go faster on the same axle. Road race and autocross don't shock it as hard so you can have more power and a 10 bolt can live.

What do you want to do with the car? Drag race suspension is different than corner carving suspension. If you build a car to drag race it will be worse at a road course than a road race car would be a drag strip. Most people who want to do it all in one car build it to handle corners best and loose a little time at the drag strip.

Since you need an entire exhaust system you will be ordering larger and better flowing stuff to work with the motor you choose. As long as it bolts up you can run cheap or free and loose a little power. The exhaust isn't all the hard to change out later. The headers or exhaust manifolds are the only part that will be challenging to change later.

LS1 car would be a huge help. You need engine cross member (I'll sell you mine), engine (LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7 block and heads are all the same on the outside really, so bolt and Fbody oil pan on it and Camaro front belt accessories and it fits), headers, wiring harness, ECU, radiator?, fans?, transmission, driveshaft, rear axle?

If you want a project to keep you busy for a while it should do that.

383z

iTrader: (2)

LS3 will swap in with a LS1 k-member.
You will need a Ls1 computer, headers, exhaust, front accessories, oil pan, and get a custom harness made.
A throttle body, because the trans uses a wire which is cheaper and less complicated going drive by wire.
Like said earlier, if you build an LS3 have the builder put a 24x crank. If not, LS3 comes with a 58x crank and you will need a converter.
Get a 12 bolt or 9inch rear end.
I wouldn't worry about suspension much until your car is running. You just won't be maximizing they car yet.
Get wider tires and wheels after your car is running, but get them.

383z

iTrader: (2)

Oh ya, I'm going LT1 to LS3...

Garthanicus

I don't see myself getting this 100% dragstrip ready anytime soon. For now the idea is to focus more on road racing while still having something that can be driven around regularly. So I'd say I'm going more for corner carving, while leaving some wiggle room for later future upgrades when I want to really go ***** to the walls.

While the 10 bolt can somewhat handle what I'm going for, would it still be a good idea to upgrade to a stronger axle?

That's definitely the end goal. At the moment I'm just working to get a solid plan down before I buy or change anything.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

As 383z stated you don't have to do all of it at once and on long projects getting to drive it at time during can help keep the motivation going and frustrations down. If the 10 bolt is okay, then build the motor and leave tires on it that won't connect all the power. That way you can't break the axle and you just have to be careful a little to keep it going straight. Then replace the axle with a 12 bolt or 9" before you get better tires. Don't get the Moser 12 bolt because of the torque arm mounts, I hear the Strange 12 bolt is a good unit.

Trying to fix the Moser 12 bolt that was in my car when I bought it currently.